Mini gutter or bent flashing for water routing

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JHZR2

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We had a shed built a few years back. Its a great little setup, we have been quite pleased with it except for one thing - water routing down the one side.

There is a side door and we have come to realize that some water can occasionally come in under heavy rains.

The design is such that there is maybe 1-1.5" of overhang of the roof from the vertical panels that make up the exterior walls. There is no practical overhang of the shingles beyond that.

So I guess under hard rain, the water teams down the roof and then falls straight down, with some managing to drip under the very short eave. Not sure if the drip edge isnt angling the water far enough out, or if under lighter rain, perhaps the water takes more of an arc off the roof and away from the walls.

Naturally Id like to prevent this, as it is obvious that there has been water on the floor of the shed from this.

The drip edge and design of the shed doesnt really allow the installation of a gutter. While I suppose one could be rigged, I dont think it would look or operate right.

I was thinking to take some flashing and try to fabricate something. Either let the flashing just extend out beyond the last shingle by an inch or two in order to help route the water, or else literally tuck it under and then let it route all the water to a sufficient distance away from the shed walls on either end.

Would either of these work? If I took a brake and bent the flashing up, could I put it under the very last shingles, at the drip edge? Those I can lift very slightly. All higher levels seem to be bonded to themselves at this point. Or do I put the flashing on top of the shingles, and nail/bond it down somehow, in order to route the water but avoid any flashing from routing water under the shingles?

Thanks!
 
When out last house was re-roofed there wasn't enough overhang of the shingles past the drip edge and instead of forming a drip it would capillary back and run down the drip edge onto the fascia. I got some brown flashing cut into 2.5" wide strips and had a slight down angle bent 1/2" back and slipped the 2" up under the shingles with the angle under the end of the shingles, fixed the problem. Sounds like you want to do something similar, it should work. Flat or steep pitch roof?
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
When out last house was re-roofed there wasn't enough overhang of the shingles past the drip edge and instead of forming a drip it would capillary back and run down the drip edge onto the fascia. I got some brown flashing cut into 2.5" wide strips and had a slight down angle bent 1/2" back and slipped the 2" up under the shingles with the angle under the end of the shingles, fixed the problem. Sounds like you want to do something similar, it should work. Flat or steep pitch roof?


That's it! Fairly flat.
 
I use a wallpaper scraper or a masonry chisel to lift tabs without damage. What if the facsia was extended by a 2x4 or even one ripped in half to support the flashing?
 
Find someone with a metal brake and have them bend you up a small "gutter" out of coil stock. You could also get some regular aluminum fascia, trim it down to size and slip it up btwn the drip edge and the fascia board backwards which would kick the water away a little better
 
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1) place some bent flashing under the other flashing and see how it goes.
2) Replace the flashing with a more appropriate size that goes slightly past the trim

I'd avoid the gutter if trees are around and also another issue of routing its water etc.
 
Whomever shingled the shed sure did not allow for much overhang. Further, the flashing looks tight to the fascia. Third, photo shows water drops clinging underneath the horizontal "ceiling".

I'd recommend a strip of flashing slid underneath the first course to extend at least 1-1/2".
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Whomever shingled the shed sure did not allow for much overhang. Further, the flashing looks tight to the fascia. Third, photo shows water drops clinging underneath the horizontal "ceiling".

I'd recommend a strip of flashing slid underneath the first course to extend at least 1-1/2".


Blame the Amish. No, seriously, I saw them do it.

That is exactly my thought process. Unless in lieu of flashing I slide a row of shingles?
 
You can get away with trimming the overhang close on the rake; not so much on the fascia. Particularly if thunderstorms are a regular event.

Another option is to slit the metal at the corners, then pry out the "kick" a bit and slide a piece of plastic shim in there. When I re-roofed, I used spacers to prevent the heavy-gauge flashing from making contact with the fascia board. I wanted water to be able to drain on the backside and air to get in there.

Some will saw-curf the bottom of that fascia board to prevent water from hanging down as shown. My own house has square returns rather than plumb cuts.

You can slide a single-shingle under there however metal (galva-lume) will last longer.
 
I picked up a 10' piece of 30 degree bent flashing. All my shingles are stuck hard to the current flashing. Is it typical to goop some adhesive to the final edge of th shingles to adhere to the drip edge? Or is it just from heat and asphalt shingles?
 
Some of that snap together vinyl gutter would be an option. I believe you can get it in brown, which might not look bad on your shed. You could make some wood shims the thickness of the corner trim to shim out the mounting brackets and gutter to better handle the water flow.
 
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