"Engine ice"?

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Has anyone used this stuff? I am a believer in using OEM most of the time, but seems a lot of the motorcycle crowd prefer this stuff.

I tried to search but couldn't find anything. Thanks!
 
Propylene glycol, water, borax and pork curing salts.

Note, if something claims to reduce the temperature of your coolant, they are actually reducing the heat transfer out of the system in total and causing higher metal temperatures.

The final point of heat transfer is from the radiator to the air, so the higher that termpature difference is, the more heat is being removed.
 
I have it in my motorcycle.
Bought it used 10 years ago and it came with it in it. No complaints and don't really know what it would be like with regular since it never had it. Some people claim it has no anti-freeze abilities but I read on their website it does. Very expensive product when I needed just a small amount to top it off.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Propylene glycol, water, borax and pork curing salts.


I have read somewhere that salt solutions/brines are VERY effective coolant mediums.

Don't nuclear reactors use some sort of brine as a coolant?
 
It's popular because it is permitted for track use. Ethylene glycol coolants are usually banned on tracks because it becomes dangerously slippery if the bike crashes/spills.

But if you don't track and want to not pay $10/qt then stick with something like Zerex G05.
 
Originally Posted By: ThunderOne
Has anyone used this stuff? I am a believer in using OEM most of the time, but seems a lot of the motorcycle crowd prefer this stuff.

I tried to search but couldn't find anything. Thanks!


I use this in my Canyon … but never analyzed any temps … I do have a cramped engine bay (under a black hood) on the Canyon ~ and system works hard in the sand …
It claims to have water pump seal conditioners and other chemicals … guess I trust the brand some too …

 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
It's popular because it is permitted for track use. Ethylene glycol coolants are usually banned on tracks because it becomes dangerously slippery if the bike crashes/spills.

But if you don't track and want to not pay $10/qt then stick with something like Zerex G05.


This is correct!

I use it in my motorcycle that sees both street and track time. It’s great because if it spills out it’s not slippery on pavement like ethylene. It’s also more environmentally friendly so if animals drink it they need to drink lots before it kills them. I haven’t noticed anything huge for temperatures but didn’t do any testing. It runs great being bagged all day in 35 degrees Celsius. An engineer friend of mine say they use it for big industrial machinery so it must be good. It’s also great because it offers colder temperature protection that water just can’t proivde.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: ThunderOne
Has anyone used this stuff? I am a believer in using OEM most of the time, but seems a lot of the motorcycle crowd prefer this stuff.

I tried to search but couldn't find anything. Thanks!


I use this in my Canyon … but never analyzed any temps … I do have a cramped engine bay (under a black hood) on the Canyon ~ and system works hard in the sand …
It claims to have water pump seal conditioners and other chemicals … guess I trust the brand some too …




I've used Water Wetter in my 300ZX the whole time I've owned her.
 
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.


Shannow I just don't think this is correct. These products INCREASE the heat transfer properties of water and have been tested and shown to work, although marginally.

From Redline:

WaterWetter® reduces the surface tension of
water by a factor of two, which means that much
smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles
on the metal surface create an insulating layer which
impedes heat transfer. Releasing these vapor bubbles
from the metal surface can improve the heat
transfer properties in this localized boiling region by
as much as 15%
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.


Even in this promo … they measure cooling medium temperature … not an engine surface …
Cooling? Maybe it’s doing next to nothing for me … but with 100k coolant … and having stripped lower plugs on radiators …
I just suck a few ounces from the top and put this in … hope it helps the water pump and other components …
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.


Shannow I just don't think this is correct. These products INCREASE the heat transfer properties of water and have been tested and shown to work, although marginally.

From Redline:

WaterWetter® reduces the surface tension of
water by a factor of two, which means that much
smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles
on the metal surface create an insulating layer which
impedes heat transfer. Releasing these vapor bubbles
from the metal surface can improve the heat
transfer properties in this localized boiling region by
as much as 15%

If they form smaller bubbles then there would be less free space between bubbles and less of the more efficient heat transfer area (liquid to metal) available.

If it requires less energy to form and release those vapor bubbles because of the "reduced surface tension", then the coolant would absorb less energy before boiling, thereby leaving unabsorbed heat behind.

You want a coolant to take as much energy as possible to convert from a liquid to a gas, that's the deep part of the heat sink. You do not want to make it any easier for the liquid to vaporize and boil.

These products help machine cooling in one way compared to traditional antifreeze products, by less dilution the best possible cooling medium we've got (plain water).
 
Unless you're taking your vehicle to an EG coolant banned track or the wellbeing of animals licking antifreeze up off the road is of high importance to you, just stick to the standard stuff meeting OEM specs and save your money.

Motorcyclists are suckers for marketing just like everyone else, maybe even more so. And I say that as a lifelong motorcyclist.
 
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Unless you're taking your vehicle to an EG coolant banned track or the wellbeing of animals licking antifreeze up off the road is of high importance to you, just stick to the standard stuff meeting OEM specs and save your money.

Motorcyclists are suckers for marketing just like everyone else, maybe even more so. And I say that as a lifelong motorcyclist.

I felt the same way when looking at the product. It seemed like it was just marketing hype that has permeated the motorcycling community.

I ended up going to the auto parts store and picking up a gallon of Peak Original Equipment 50/50 green. Since green stuff came out of the bike, I put green stuff back in. It says it's designed for pre-2010 Suzukis, which my bike is a 2006. Went for a test run and is performing normally. They say a complete flush (which is what I did) warrants up to 5 years of use on this coolant.

I was unsure of the longevity of Engine Ice, didn't really care for the name of the product or its boutique nature (likely no multimillion dollar research went into the creation of the product), and have not read any consistent data regarding its ability to cool better. I have also noticed that some say if the coolant is cooler, then it is not transferring heat as well as it should. Not sure if there is any truth to that.. but to me it makes sense. I decided putting an OE spec coolant back in was the smartest solution.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.


Shannow I just don't think this is correct. These products INCREASE the heat transfer properties of water and have been tested and shown to work, although marginally.

From Redline:

WaterWetter® reduces the surface tension of
water by a factor of two, which means that much
smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles
on the metal surface create an insulating layer which
impedes heat transfer. Releasing these vapor bubbles
from the metal surface can improve the heat
transfer properties in this localized boiling region by
as much as 15%


They've changed that part of their claim from eliminating boiling to allowing it and refining the bubbles (maybe they've paid attention to my claims on BITOG).

The ultimate heat rejection is radiator to the ambient, and that's ALL driven by delta T...cooler coolant, less heat rejected to the atmosphere, and QED less heat picked up in the engine.

I've had, a few years ago correspondence while one such thread was going on that they wired up an engine with thermocouples in the important hot spots...they all got hotter with WW.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Water wetter makes the parts inside the engine hotter rather than cooler.

When those products advertise reducing the coolant temperature, they are actually removing LESS heat from the engine, and causing metal temperatures to rise.


Shannow I just don't think this is correct. These products INCREASE the heat transfer properties of water and have been tested and shown to work, although marginally.

From Redline:

WaterWetter® reduces the surface tension of
water by a factor of two, which means that much
smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles
on the metal surface create an insulating layer which
impedes heat transfer. Releasing these vapor bubbles
from the metal surface can improve the heat
transfer properties in this localized boiling region by
as much as 15%


They've changed that part of their claim from eliminating boiling to allowing it and refining the bubbles (maybe they've paid attention to my claims on BITOG).

The ultimate heat rejection is radiator to the ambient, and that's ALL driven by delta T...cooler coolant, less heat rejected to the atmosphere, and QED less heat picked up in the engine.

I've had, a few years ago correspondence while one such thread was going on that they wired up an engine with thermocouples in the important hot spots...they all got hotter with WW.

Isn't that one of the reasons hydrazine is injected into steam generator condensate?
 
Hydrazine is an oxygen scavenger, and introduced to ensure that the oxide film on the tubes is a stable thin film of magnatite, and not a porous fluffy film of haematite.
 
I've used Redline Water Wetter for years but I had a big leak this morning, probably the ~15 year old water pump, we'll see. At any rate, I'm re-evaluating because I'm worried it doesn't have enough corrosion inhibitors for daily driving compared to traditional coolants. I ran WW for ease of clean up on track.
 
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