0W-40 Mobil 1 in a 2002 Honda Accord

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md6040vr6t
I found several gallons of this stuff left over from my old VW. Hate to let such good oil go to waste.

Have considered mixing it with a single quart or two of 0W-20 or 0W-30 high mileage mobile one to bring the running weight down slightly and provide some seal conditioners into the mix with this 16 yr old engine.

Thoughts?
 
Ran Edge 0w40 in my ‘05 V6 speced for 5w20 and noticed no discernible difference in MPGs or anything else for that matter in the ~8k it was in there. Didn’t burn any though, whereas M1 5w20 did burn a bit.

I say go for it
 
Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
I found several gallons of this stuff left over from my old VW. Hate to let such good oil go to waste.

Have considered mixing it with a single quart or two of 0W-20 or 0W-30 high mileage mobile one to bring the running weight down slightly and provide some seal conditioners into the mix with this 16 yr old engine.

Thoughts?


Assuming you live in ?Maryland?, I'd blend-in a quart of 0w-20 every OCI.
 
Been running Mobil 1 0w-40 in my honda for about 50k km. But right now i am running amsoil 5w-30 ss(testing this oil)

Mobil1 fs 0w-40 will sheer down to a 30 viscosity. So its pretty ok for Honda.
 
Don’t go out and buy 20’s or 30’s as the M1 is a thin 40 and will become a 30 in short order, as mentioned. If you already have it, then mix away.
 
Use it as is, no need to mix anything into it.
I think you'll find this oil to be smoother and quieter than what you've used in the past.
We had two Accords of this generation, an LX 5spd and an EX automatic, both VTEC fours.
The earlier car had 5W-30 recommended for it while the later one called for 5W-20.
Both were smoother and quieter on thicker grades than recommended and fuel economy suffered little if at all.
 
Originally Posted By: LotI
Don’t go out and buy 20’s or 30’s as the M1 is a thin 40 and will become a 30 in short order, as mentioned. If you already have it, then mix away.


I thought full syns didn’t really sheer and only need to be changed because the additives deplete?
 
My understanding is that 0w-40 takes many, many miles to sheer below 35 weight. What like 15-20k with an average driver? Saw a report one time from many UOAs from blackstone showing that people who think it “sheers down” drastically are merely averaging their knowledge of some 0W oil and slapping their opinion of 0w-40 along with it. At one point or another, Mobil 1 considered it to be the best, most difficult designs they’ve ever produced. “The best oil we’ve ever made”. Extreme cold pour, (better than any in extreme temps?) while maintaining excellent film strength for many miles. 502 approved for VW and wonderful detergent additives which keep the engine clearer than most oils out there.

My knowledge of Honda engines is a little limited. My plan for now is to mix some high mileage 0w-30 HM Mobile oil in there for the seal conditioners or a partial can of stop leak to keep the seals happy
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: LotI
Don’t go out and buy 20’s or 30’s as the M1 is a thin 40 and will become a 30 in short order, as mentioned. If you already have it, then mix away.


I thought full syns didn’t really sheer and only need to be changed because the additives deplete?


They can and do. Note that there a few different “levels” or groups of synthetics. They may sheer slower than conventional oils, but you can find charts for how a lot of oils lose weight during average driving. Many variables such as the specific oil in use measured up against the driver’s driving habits, air quality, engine condition, etc. Some guys replace the filter and keep the oil going a while longer. Every car is kind of it’s own unique configuration and it’s cool that we have UOA to help us make informed decisions for the specific condition of our engine. I just usually do 7500 oil changes in Honda because I’m using better oil and filter than stock and the manual calls for 7500 mike changes with conventional. It could probably easily go 10,000, but I do a lot of city driving and cold starts.
 
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Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: LotI
Don’t go out and buy 20’s or 30’s as the M1 is a thin 40 and will become a 30 in short order, as mentioned. If you already have it, then mix away.


I thought full syns didn’t really sheer and only need to be changed because the additives deplete?


They can and do. Note that there a few different “levels” or groups of synthetics. They may sheer slower than conventional oils, but you can find charts for how a lot of oils lose weight during average driving. Many variables such as the specific oil in use measured up against the driver’s driving habits, air quality, engine condition, etc. Some guys replace the filter and keep the oil going a while longer. Every car is kind of it’s own unique configuration and it’s cool that we have UOA to help us make informed decisions for the specific condition of our engine. I just usually do 7500 oil changes in Honda because I’m using better oil and filter than stock and the manual calls for 7500 mike changes with conventional. It could probably easily go 10,000, but I do a lot of city driving and cold starts.


Your previous post right before this one suggests that in actual practice synthetics really don’t shear during a remotely normal length OCI?

Not aimed at you now, but in general, I feel like this place has been full of a lot of contradictory information lately. I’ve literally read here before that synthetics don’t shear out of grade, they just need to be changed due to TAN and also detergents being used up. And then we get some people saying just use M1 40 weight because it shears down to a 30 weight like nothing anyway. And then we get an answer like it will shear but not for forever anyway. Where does the truth lie? Again, not picking on you but on the whole forum lately it’s been like this. PAO cleans, PAO doesn’t clean at all. Group designation matters, group designation doesn’t matter at all. NOACK is super important, no wait it’s actually not something we should judge an oil by now. This place seems to be trending away from facts and more into speculation and sometimes even wild opinion. Just my observation.
 
Every oil, even the same oil, will sheer differently under different driving conditions and in different engines. Blanket claims people make that synthetics don’t sheer. Hm. Under certain driving contains, say in a well-tuned race car, you could destroy almost any motor oil and drastically reduce its viscosity in less than 500 miles. What condition was the engine in when switched to G4, how hard was it driven, how hard were the additives working to clean the junk that was already in the engine compared to what was introduced like it was a new car. Is the owner reporting on any of this reporting honestly on their driving habits? Were they driving sober? Are they a real person or something with a dazzling personality living in arrested development? It’s not so much a question of group IV vs III, but the overall package and what it offers in a specific application. I personally have really only used Mobil and Valvoine products because it’s what my Dad used before he passed away. He also liked Castrol. Like me, he was a consumer who made thoughtful observations throughout many decades. And whether these brands actually hold true to what their brands mean is another question. But one things for sure. I wouldn’t use Pennzoil in an ex-girlfriend‘s car that I hate with everything I am. Even a raging horrible person needs to find her way easily in doing horrible things. Mobile One and Valvoline always have done their job because I love my Dad and that’s what he used. Castro I think is a little under rated and does consider a bigger picture most consumers realized in all of their products.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: LotI
Don’t go out and buy 20’s or 30’s as the M1 is a thin 40 and will become a 30 in short order, as mentioned. If you already have it, then mix away.


I thought full syns didn’t really sheer and only need to be changed because the additives deplete?


They can and do. Note that there a few different “levels” or groups of synthetics. They may sheer slower than conventional oils, but you can find charts for how a lot of oils lose weight during average driving. Many variables such as the specific oil in use measured up against the driver’s driving habits, air quality, engine condition, etc. Some guys replace the filter and keep the oil going a while longer. Every car is kind of it’s own unique configuration and it’s cool that we have UOA to help us make informed decisions for the specific condition of our engine. I just usually do 7500 oil changes in Honda because I’m using better oil and filter than stock and the manual calls for 7500 mike changes with conventional. It could probably easily go 10,000, but I do a lot of city driving and cold starts.


Your previous post right before this one suggests that in actual practice synthetics really don’t shear during a remotely normal length OCI?

Not aimed at you now, but in general, I feel like this place has been full of a lot of contradictory information lately. I’ve literally read here before that synthetics don’t shear out of grade, they just need to be changed due to TAN and also detergents being used up. And then we get some people saying just use M1 40 weight because it shears down to a 30 weight like nothing anyway. And then we get an answer like it will shear but not for forever anyway. Where does the truth lie? Again, not picking on you but on the whole forum lately it’s been like this. PAO cleans, PAO doesn’t clean at all. Group designation matters, group designation doesn’t matter at all. NOACK is super important, no wait it’s actually not something we should judge an oil by now. This place seems to be trending away from facts and more into speculation and sometimes even wild opinion. Just my observation.


Quite simple:

Anything with VII's can and will experience some viscosity loss due to shear. Whether that's countered by viscosity gain due to oxidation or accompanied by viscosity loss due to fuel dilution is where things get changed up and vary significantly on engine, application and how it is operated.

An oil with no VII's cannot shear (there's nothing to shear). But it can still experience viscosity loss due to fuel dilution or gain due to oxidation.
 
Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
Every oil, even the same oil, will sheer differently under different driving conditions and in different engines. Blanket claims people make that synthetics don’t sheer. Hm. Under certain driving contains, say in a well-tuned race car, you could destroy almost any motor oil and drastically reduce its viscosity in less than 500 miles. What condition was the engine in when switched to G4, how hard was it driven, how hard were the additives working to clean the junk that was already in the engine compared to what was introduced like it was a new car. Is the owner reporting on any of this reporting honestly on their driving habits? Were they driving sober? Are they a real person or something with a dazzling personality living in arrested development? It’s not so much a question of group IV vs III, but the overall package and what it offers in a specific application. I personally have really only used Mobil and Valvoine products because it’s what my Dad used before he passed away. He also liked Castrol. Like me, he was a consumer who made thoughtful observations throughout many decades. And whether these brands actually hold true to what their brands mean is another question. But one things for sure. I wouldn’t use Pennzoil in an ex-girlfriend‘s car that I hate with everything I am. Even a raging horrible person needs to find her way easily in doing horrible things. Mobile One and Valvoline always have done their job because I love my Dad and that’s what he used. Castro I think is a little under rated and does consider a bigger picture most consumers realized in all of their products.


Pennzoil products for years now have been excellent quality and debatably the benchmark for off the shelf motor oils, but I do respect your nostalgic reasons for using the brands you use and I’m certainly not telling you to switch.
 
Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
I found several gallons of this stuff left over from my old VW. Hate to let such good oil go to waste.

Have considered mixing it with a single quart or two of 0W-20 or 0W-30 high mileage mobile one to bring the running weight down slightly and provide some seal conditioners into the mix with this 16 yr old engine.

Thoughts?


I run M1 0w40 in our 1.4T Cruze … started at 90k … runs smooth & quiet …
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: md6040vr6t
I found several gallons of this stuff left over from my old VW. Hate to let such good oil go to waste.

Have considered mixing it with a single quart or two of 0W-20 or 0W-30 high mileage mobile one to bring the running weight down slightly and provide some seal conditioners into the mix with this 16 yr old engine.

Thoughts?


I run M1 0w40 in our 1.4T Cruze … started at 90k … runs smooth & quiet …


So did my honda civic
 
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