:::Re-Torquing Bolt After Loctite

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NDL

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Apr 10, 2016
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Carolina Foothills
I gotta question for y'all:

Over the past month I have asked my fellow posters what they thought about me swapping out my fixed steering column, for a tilt steering column, out of the same year truck (2001 Ford Ranger).

Y'all gave me excellent advice, and I am grateful for it. I did the swap on Saturday, and I am so glad that I did...I am a tall guy and the tilt column gives my legs extra wiggle room.

I did not use a torque wrench on the steering wheel bolt or the pincher bolt at the bottom of the column, but I did tighten both (screw and nut) *very* tight. I coated both the steering wheel nut threads, and pincher bolt threads, with loctite blue; up and down the threads, top to bottom.

The truck drives fine, but it was suggested that I recheck the pincher bolt for tightness after a week or two of driving. If I do this, will I not break the loctite seal? Since I did not use a torque wrench when I installed the new column - at best, I can take it to my mechanic, and have him test the bolt for tightness with his torque wrench. I am assuming that the bolts are spec+ (again, they were very tight), when my mechanic sets his torque wrench to the bolt, since it should be within spec, the bolt will not move, and the loctite seal will be preserved. On the other hand, is it necessary that I take a wrench to the pincher bolt, or is a visual inspection sufficient? After tightening the bolt, a 2/8 of an inch of threads were exposed - and I should see the same now. I did put quite a bit of loctite on the threads, and I can't see them moving anywhere.

I do realize that I am coming to y'all with a few unknown variables here. Any advice?
 
Leave it alone. Match mark the nuts with a sharpie if you're worried; if they slip, you'll see the misaligned marks.
 
You would not get an accurate torque reading with Loctite applied and would break the seal trying. If you put the German torque of Guten-Tight on it with the Loctite it will be fine. As mentioned, marking the nuts will ease your mind.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Leave it alone. Match mark the nuts with a sharpie if you're worried; if they slip, you'll see the misaligned marks.


Originally Posted By: 229
You would not get an accurate torque reading with Loctite applied and would break the seal trying. If you put the German torque of Guten-Tight on it with the Loctite it will be fine. As mentioned, marking the nuts will ease your mind.


I have driven the truck of a total of 50 miles since I did the job; to confirm: it isn't too late to use the sharpie approach (an excellent idea!)?

Appreciate y'all's help. Since this is my first column, I am taking a "better safe than sorry approach" hence the multitude of questions. Again, thank you both
 
Not a fan of loctite. There are cheaper ways. A sharp punch right in the top of the nut against the thread. My latest discovery is external tooth washers. 4 cents apiece. Ny-lock nuts are a better application. I get free loctite brown. AKA rust.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Not a fan of loctite. There are cheaper ways. A sharp punch right in the top of the nut against the thread. My latest discovery is external tooth washers. 4 cents apiece. Ny-lock nuts are a better application. I get free loctite brown. AKA rust.
grin2.gif



Appreciate the input, and yes, ny-lock nuts...can't live without them
smile.gif
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RE: Threadlocker application

You only need a dab covering three threads (and not all around, just a straight "line" from top to bottom) to get a perfect threadlocker anti-vibration lock. It will self-spread as required, it sets in the absence of air and the presence of moisture (from the air, prior to assembly).

The stuff is expensive, no need to over-apply. It won't work any better if you do, it's not a matter of "if some is good, too much should be perfect".
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Leave it alone. Match mark the nuts with a sharpie if you're worried; if they slip, you'll see the misaligned marks.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
RE: Threadlocker application

You only need a dab covering three threads (and not all around, just a straight "line" from top to bottom) to get a perfect threadlocker anti-vibration lock. It will self-spread as required, it sets in the absence of air and the presence of moisture (from the air, prior to assembly).

The stuff is expensive, no need to over-apply. It won't work any better if you do, it's not a matter of "if some is good, too much should be perfect".


I appreciate you educating me; I never knew that "more isn't better" with loctite. Thank you.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Leave it alone. Match mark the nuts with a sharpie if you're worried; if they slip, you'll see the misaligned marks.


+1


Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Leave it alone.


+2


Thanks guys...I feel a lot better about my project now that I have consulted with y'all.
 
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