2003 Lincoln Aviator Suggestions

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So I currently have a 03 Lincoln Aviator AWD with 145K Miles. Ive put about 60K on that SUV.

Recently the car shakes a bit to much when a come to a complete stop(either stop sign or red light)

Also, when im in the expressway driving at high speeds, the car seem to jerk a bit.

No lights for check engine, or check transmission.

im planning to do a spark plug change,( which I changed on Summer 2016) and spark plug boots.

As well as an oil change with some form of oil treatment.


Any suggestions on what may control or prevent the shaking?


Thanks crew.
 
Fresh motor mounts?

Motorcraft parts of course.

*Do you have a live data code reader that can say if your temp sensor is being truthful?
 
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Ive done an OBDII read and everything comes in normal.

I thought it would be the motor mounts. They look good. No tears whats so ever.

The car shakes, but its random. Its like the vehicle shakes when it wants to.
 
Shaking is more then likely something to do with brakes and/or rotors.

Jerking at high speeds can be a multitude of things. I wouldn't add anything to the oil. Rather, I'd first look at fuel/spark/air. Check for stored codes (will require a little more than a basic scan tool), do a visual inspection of spark plugs, check components of the air intake (filter, box, hose, etc), clean (if necessary) the throttle body and check fuel pressure. I would start there as those are all fairly simple things that any level DIYer can do and work out from there.
 
I haven't checked the throttle body, I should probably look at it and clean it if theres some residue or dirt.
Last year Strut/spring assembly were replaced last year, aswell as brakes and rotors, tie rods, ball joints, the shaking like I said its a hit or miss but its annoying. At times the car runs like the engine isn't even on, and other times it feels like the car is about to break apart on me
 
Does it shake more in gear than in neutral? Can you see or feel the engine vibrating around with the hood open? If you can access them, try unplugging injectors one at a time. A cylinder not pulling its share won't have as much effect on the vibration when unplugged. A cylinder that is working properly will greatly increase vibration when shut down.

Pulling the plugs is a good idea, even if only to inspect for unusual wear or fouling that would indicate a problem.

Does the problem exist at all speed and load conditions? Improve or get worse when you floor it?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Fresh motor mounts?

Motorcraft parts of course.

*Do you have a live data code reader that can say if your temp sensor is being truthful?


There are no Motorcraft motor mounts, only Ford. They are obsolete as are most Aviator specific parts.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Fresh motor mounts?

Motorcraft parts of course.

*Do you have a live data code reader that can say if your temp sensor is being truthful?


There are no Motorcraft motor mounts, only Ford. They are obsolete as are most Aviator specific parts.


Ford. Motorcraft.. I am sorry.

Let me get another frog for you to split the hairs on..........
 
Fords do not set misfire codes until it gets REALLY bad, As in the PCM can no longer manipulate things to prevent Catalyst damage.

In the Ford/Vehicle specific data display....There will be a Misfire PID, Reads (Yes/No)
*Test drive the vehicle....Apply varying amounts of load to the engine.
*Watch the Misfire PID to switch from "No" to "Yes".
*Try to make it read "Yes" as much as possible....If it misfires at 20% load at 30 MPH, Try to recreate that a few times to establish a pattern.....If it misfires again at 40% load at 60 MPH, Recreate that a few times, Again......Patterns, Patterns, Patterns!!
*If you feel a misfire while it says "Yes".....And it's repeatable....You have a misfire!!
*There are some things that can prevent the misfire monitor from running! Like low fuel level, Open Loop, DTC set. etc etc.

If it just flashes "Yes" every once in a while in no repeatable fashion....This test has provided inconclusive results.

The next step is to use Mode $06 (On Board Monitored Systems), This is available on most decent scan tools.
*Select test $53
*The "Components" will be numbered $01 thru $08....These are Cylinder ID numbers. $01 is cylinder #1 & $08 is cylinder #8.
*Scroll through the components & find the "Failed" component, This will be the offending cylinder.


Fords are NOTORIOUS for Coil degradation that cause random/load specific misfires, They also just flat fail....Obviously not the case here.

If you find a bad coil....Replace it with Motorcraft!

Putting new Boots on these Coils is a stop-gap repair at best if one or more was leaking Secondary voltage. Seeing what that does to the Primary Control Amperage waveform makes you wonder how the Coils put up with secondary leakage as well as they do!!

Fords have the Coil Transistors built into the PCM & can be damaged if ran long enough with faulty coil/s! I don't understand the theory behind that engineering decision as GM & Toyota for example use COP coils with built in Transistors. Not only do they generally last the life of the vehicle.....The PCM is never in danger.

EEM56it.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JustN89
Shaking is more then likely something to do with brakes and/or rotors.

Jerking at high speeds can be a multitude of things. I wouldn't add anything to the oil. Rather, I'd first look at fuel/spark/air. Check for stored codes (will require a little more than a basic scan tool), do a visual inspection of spark plugs, check components of the air intake (filter, box, hose, etc), clean (if necessary) the throttle body and check fuel pressure. I would start there as those are all fairly simple things that any level DIYer can do and work out from there.


The OP says "Recently the car shakes a bit to much when a come to a complete stop(either stop sign or red light)"

That's admittedly slightly ambiguous, but I'd read it as shaking-when-stationary, which means its more than likely NOT something to do with brakes.

I'd agree with the rest of your post, (though the air intake bit is unlikely) and with the other posters who seem to think chasing a misfire is the name of this game.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: JustN89
Shaking is more then likely something to do with brakes and/or rotors.

Jerking at high speeds can be a multitude of things. I wouldn't add anything to the oil. Rather, I'd first look at fuel/spark/air. Check for stored codes (will require a little more than a basic scan tool), do a visual inspection of spark plugs, check components of the air intake (filter, box, hose, etc), clean (if necessary) the throttle body and check fuel pressure. I would start there as those are all fairly simple things that any level DIYer can do and work out from there.


The OP says "Recently the car shakes a bit to much when a come to a complete stop(either stop sign or red light)"

That's admittedly slightly ambiguous, but I'd read it as shaking-when-stationary, which means its more than likely NOT something to do with brakes.

I'd agree with the rest of your post, (though the air intake bit is unlikely) and with the other posters who seem to think chasing a misfire is the name of this game.


Yeah, I understood it as shaking while braking. If it's shaking while stationary, it's safe to rule out brakes/rotors.

I just added the air intake because it's very easy to check and I've seen my fair share of animals makings nests in air filter housing or plastic bags stuck in the air inlets. Most likely it's not the cause, but again, it's easy to check.
 
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