New vehicle paint prep before waxing

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Looking to hand prep a new white car, before waxing using Collinite #845.

Have Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, Sonus Paintwork Cleanser, Collinite #840 Pre-Wax Cleaner, and Zymol Cleaner Wax, on hand.

Are any of these preferable? Are there better options?

Not planning to clay. Or, is this a mistake?

Thanks.
 
Check your paint surface carefully. You might have rail dust which would necessitate a iron remover treatment. Claying would be appropriate after that. It really depends on how badly the dealership treated your vehicle before the sale. Most use automated washes now and the rest use a dirty soap bucket with a wash mitt that has seen the ground more than a car body.
 
Congrats on the purchase of the new car.

Given the fact that you are planning to do it by hand I'd suggest not to waste time with any the polishes or paint cleansers.

Instead, I'd suggest you get some iron remover (any brand really but I prefer carpro's ironx) and liberally apply to your paint after good strip wash.

Next, depending on the condition of the paint, you may need to hit it with tar remover (optional) followed by another quick wash. Make sure that soap you're using contains no wax or glass enhancers (CarPro reset is amazing in that department).

Once it is all done hit the paint with IPA solution (I use carpo's eraser but the are multiple other brands out there as well). This will ensure your paint is as clean as it can be and wax will get a good bond with the paint.

If you still want to use any paint cleaners - get a polisher (Griots Garage 6" polisher would be the best choice for this application).

Hope this helps
 
Oh, and speaking of clay. in 99% cases you'll need to polish after claying since it leaves micro marring (very much depends on the paint hardness but in my experience polishing was always needed). With that said, if you don't have a polisher and not planning on polishing, I'd skip the clay.
 
With a new car, IMO clay is necessary.

I would wash with Dawn, clay, wash again. This will get all the impurities out of the paint that were imbedded in shipping and while waiting delivery. It will also strip any wax or other material that you want off before you wax over it. Prep the surface with Collinite #840 (hand application should be fine, with a new car you probably don't need to use a DA polisher). Finish up with the Collinite #845.


I've done a similar process with Zaino and my red Z28. 16 years old and the paint still looks new.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml
Looking to hand prep a new white car, before waxing using Collinite #845.

Have Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, Sonus Paintwork Cleanser, Collinite #840 Pre-Wax Cleaner, and Zymol Cleaner Wax, on hand.

Are any of these preferable? Are there better options?

Not planning to clay. Or, is this a mistake?

Thanks.

I was in a very similar scenario as you 4 months ago with a brand new (pearl white) vehicle.

To my surprise...despite a very thorough washing in advance of wanting to wax/seal the exterior...I went ahead and did a clay-bar treatment anyway - glad I did it.

To my near shock...having thought the new car and thorough washing would allow me to move directly towards the wax/sealant (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid)...I saw very clear quantities of pollutants and other surface residue in the clay from nearly everywhere on the vehicle.

Therefore, i did a clay-bar treatment, then a light polish, then the Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid protection. The surface is not only incredibly shiny new...but totally smooth as can be. Despite claims about micro-marring...which I never witnessed...any quality polish, sealant, wax will eliminate it anyway.

If you're going to take the time to get the exterior tip-top...clay bar first. The results will be very rewarding and your protection will be solid as well.
 
it all depends on the condition of the paint. Inspect very carefully first. If you detect no marks or anything that you feel needs attention, just proceed to apply your preferred wax/polish/sealant after a thorough washing. Claying will abrade the paint somewhat that will need correction. Don't do it unless it is really needed.
 
Originally Posted By: TTK
it all depends on the condition of the paint. Inspect very carefully first.

I'd totally agree with that part of your recommendation. After washing, it's easy to closely examine and feel the paint surface with your hands.

Since we're talking about a new(er) vehicle...people should know that despite that (and a good wash)...they are not exempt from having pollutants and other foreign substances (tree sap, road film, etc.) on their exterior paint and even wheel rims or glass.

Clay-barring did not cause any negative surface affect on my new vehicle. None whatsoever. It was properly done with a lubricant as instructed with clay bar products. That eliminates any real risk or problems when following directions.

Any fear thoughts of doing it are unjustified, as it's a common 2nd step (after washing) detailing step done routinely by professionals on expensive 6-figure cars all the time, and when done correctly with a common lubricant...there is no risk whatsoever. You can even clay-bar your windshield and other auto glass surfaces.

Nonetheless, where the ultimate goal is to get to a well-protected paint surface like stated by the original poster...polishing, sealing, glazing, and waxing are all options once a clean surface is established after doing a clay-bar treatment.

Here are 2 good summary articles on the process, the materials, the purpose, and the results:

When & How to Clay Bar

How & Why to Clay Bar a Vehicle
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Check your paint surface carefully. You might have rail dust which would necessitate a iron remover treatment. Claying would be appropriate after that. It really depends on how badly the dealership treated your vehicle before the sale. Most use automated washes now and the rest use a dirty soap bucket with a wash mitt that has seen the ground more than a car body.


You got that right. I saw how dealerships I worked at prepped cars for delivery, I almost puked. When I ordered my Jeeps I had the manager write across the top of the buyers order in big bold letters: DON'T WASH OR WAX THE VEHICLE. Then when it came in I called him and the salesman and reminded them.
 
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Claying is a lot easier with something like Mother's Speed Clay 2.0. Not an actual clay!

Yes, that is the only one I would use.
 
I'd wash the car and clay bar first. Dealer detailers can be minimum wage or flat rate hacks or hard workers that care - but there's always dealer installed swirls. At the dealer I worked out, SOP was to remove the plastic wrap on the leading edges, roof and door handles. Then it was through the wash and a quick wax before the lot. Japanese-built Hondas used a weird painted-on compound that removed easily with a hose if the car didn't spend more than a few weeks in sun. If it baked on, you needed to use wax and grease remover(Prep-Sol or PPG DX330) to help get it off.

A clay bar can remove embedded dirt but not rail dust. In my time "detailing" at the dealer I didn't see rail dust and if so, we used a hydrofluoric acid containing cleaner to remove it.

Polish with the least aggressive thing you have.
 
I'd use some Iron-x before using the clay. The Mothers Clay sponge is very good. If you want to spend a little less there's one on Amazon/Autogeek for around $13. Ooops looks to be a little less than I thought.

Link for $10 clay sponge
 
Washed the car with Meguiar's Wash Plus.

Paint felt smooth, so did not clay.

Hand applied Sonus Paintwork Cleanser. The white color really came out bright, and was able to get a really good shine.

Finished up with Collinite #845. Looks great.

Also detailed my wife's gray Elantra using Wash Plus+Clay+Sonus Paintwork Cleanser+Collinite #845. Also looks great.

Strongly recommend Sonus Paintwork Cleanser. Does a great job as a cleaner/polish.
 
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