2003 Civic EX with 225,000 miles Burning Oil

[Sayjac]

Former owner of 01 Civic EX now in extended family stable ~285k+ miles my speculation would be worn valve guides as much as anything. The 01 Civic began to use some oil, not visble at tailpipe and maybe ~1/2 qt every 1500 miles. However it does have a small sump.

Replace the PCV as first step, but I doubt it will make a huge difference. I would not do anything extreme or even a piston soak. As recommended earlier use least expensive API rated conventional oil, add when needed and change it with consideration of those adds in mind. Can go to 5w30 and/or HM oil to give it a try though I doubt that make a huge difference either.

Really your use not terrible. If want to keep it awhile make sure timing belt water pump service has been done and just drive it. Head gasket also a common needed replacement item on these models.

 

[ka9mnx]

I forgot to answer some of your question.

You have to look beyond the 5w or 10w or even 0w grades. You can have a 5w rated an A3 and a 10w rated an A5. Same for the 100c ratings. The ACEA is not specific as to what grade gets what rating. It's up to the make up of the oil and how it performs, unlike the API. The area where ACEA gets specific is HTHS and NOAK, well, there are other things like wear levels and piston/ring cleanliness, etc.

Generally, an A5 oil is lighter (HTHS) for fuel economy and an A3 is more robust. The "B" (A3/B4) is for diesel engines. I won't even get into the new "C" ratings. They are supposed to be for vehicles with after treatments like DPF and Cats and I'm still trying to figure them out. Funny though, Europe has been running cats for years on "A" oils!

 

[BrocLuno]

Sorry to take so long getting back... Yes, that is the BG109 and the break-free shown in your amazon listings.

The treatment I described earlier is not a real piston soak. It's more of a piston ring wash. Using Break-Free in aerosol means a goodly shot in each cylinder. Like a 1 second squirt from the spray can. Maybe a 2 second squirt... Not anywhere near enough to hydraulic a cylinder. The overnight "soak" is the part where it gets behind the rings and softens the carbon ridge on the top ring land. Once the engine starts the next day, it all goes up in smoke anyway.

Seafoam in the crankcase is pretty aggressive. If you had a stuck lifter in an old school flat tappet V8, I'd say yeah sure go for it. But it's not usually in the system long enough to really get to the rings. However, cap full in each cylinder in lieu of the Break-Free will do the same work w/o the lubricating bit ... It'll work though.

The BG109 (now known as EPR) is a great treatment. A full can in the oil 100 miles before a change will do a lot. It took away about 1/2 my oil consumption in the 1988 Big Bronco last time I did it. And that engine has about the same mileage (223K). Yeah, your valve guides are worn some. They are leaking a bit into the intake.

But, these chemical treatments will do no harm and they do not require much disassembly. A good valve job with new seals is a whole lot more work and money ...

 

[Revving2Redline]

+1. Adding Pea fuel cleaner can't hurt either.

 

[cb450sc]

I'm surprised your transmission has lasted this long, what is your secret? I own a 2005.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz

I didn’t say 20w-50 was the answer. You said vtec needs thinner than a 40wt to run, which I corrected.


Ahh yes good point, I did say that didn't I? I give credit where credit is due. Good catch my friend!

CB

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I would rather add the same 5/10W30 when needed, versus switching to thick 20w50. 0W40 would be the thickest I'd try.
It gets too cold in Minnesota and stays cold for long spells.

 

[Jonzobot]

Speaking of piston soak, digging through old posts apparently using a product called LC20 was pretty popular on this board. I wonder if that still considered good?