Different weight oil to help bad rings?

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Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I've never been able to slow down the burning in an OPE by using a thicker oil or even that STP or Motor Honey. It all just thins out with the )))HOT((( engine.

A little Bardahl 2116 No Smoke mixed into SAE30 motor oil will reduce oil burning. An ounce or two will do the trick.


Yeah, I guess this does work for some but, I've never had any success with doing similar. I thought I did and have even said, "Hmmm, I think I've gaught it"!
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But, after the first or second week/cutting...smoke reappeared!
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Mow at night?


What he said and any Heavy Duty oil at 30 or higher
 
Originally Posted By: sh40674
i've used 5/30 synthetic in almost all of my small engines (unless calling specifically for something else) and never an issue.


It seems you've had an issue, premature ring wear. I suggest 15W-50 M1 in many air cooled engines. Especially if they run hot, such as stationary generators and water pumps. For all others, I suggest M1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, a robust oil with a great additive package.
 
why do you guys not recommend 5/30 in small engines? all my newer stuff is recommended at 5/30.. i can't remember what this one is at as i've lost the manual. the mower is at least 10 years old.
 
Originally Posted By: sh40674
why do you guys not recommend 5/30 in small engines? all my newer stuff is recommended at 5/30.. i can't remember what this one is at as i've lost the manual. the mower is at least 10 years old.


Cujet and I live in Florida. So our recommendations are based on that. Its pretty much 80 plus degrees here almost year round on any days that I would use a small engine. Very rarely would I ever use a small engine under 70 degrees. And almost never under 60 degrees. Even in the winter here on an average day its 68 degrees outside.

Going off memory, engine oil temp in air cooled engines runs ABOUT 150 degrees hotter than ambient outside temp. So if its 50 degrees outside, your engine oil in an air cooled engine will likely run in the 200 degree range, assuming the cooling fan is working properly. If its 90 degrees outside, your oil temp will run ABOUT 240 degrees. This isn't set in stone, this is an approximation that I have seen. Of course, every engine will be different. Your snow blower oil on a 15 degree day is likely in the 165-170 degree territory, hence why 5W30 is perfectly acceptable and appropriate for a snow blower. Compare 165 degree oil used in a snow blower, to 240 degree oil in a mower ..... and you see why Cujet and I like a little more protection.
 
When you change the oil next, drain the gas also, put the mower on it's side and shoot some carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and soak the piston rings over night at a minimum. Jog the piston back and forth by moving the blade periodically, making sure there's always plenty of solvent on the piston. I've seen many a mower respond well to this due to gummed up rings.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Has anyone here ever done a compression check on a new mower just to establish a base line?

Do a dry compression check then add a squirt of oil.

Is reringing a single cylinder engine a big deal? ....after all, it is a Briggs engine!


Compression test won't tell anything concerning the oil ring. To re-ring and aluminum engine with out a steel sleeve is just wasting your time. He likely can run it for several more years with heavier oil and put his pride aside when it comes to what others think about some smoke..
 
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Originally Posted By: wag123
Most Poulan branded mowers use B&S engines that have aluminum cylinder bores. Rings are not the problem, a worn cylinder bore is the likely problem. Aluminum bore B&S engines will run for years burning oil like this if you keep oil in them. Just use an HD SAE30 motor oil to minimize oil use (don't use a multi-weight motor oil), check the oil level before EACH fuel fill (add as needed but DO NOT OVERFILL), and run it till it blows. You will probably be surprised at how long the mower will run like this. If your neighbors question your smoking mower, tell them you are killing mosquitoes
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I agree with this. I've done some BAD things to old Briggs aluminum bore engines. They may lose power and smoke like a chimney, but, I've never actually seen one die from a worn out bore or rings. Is that even possible? They will run forever until some sort of catastrophic failure. They always throw a rod/break a crank, or just get too darn hard to start by the time they get scrapped. They usually smoke even new with me from all the 2 stroke oil I put in the gas...

Older they get the thicker the oil I use.
 
add a few ounces of this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bardahl-no-smoke-oil-treatment-16-oz-2116/7660003-P?searchTerm=engine+oil+treatment+%26+additives to a 40weight oil.

you can also do a few tanks of engineered 4 cycle fuel than cut it 50/50 with 93 octane
 
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