I am sure this has been covered before but here is my situation. I have just been told I need to repair my OEM 1970 Copper/Brass radiator in my 1970 Chevelle SS 396. I need a new core and tank seals. The cost for this repair is $400 while the cost of an aftermarket aluminum radiator is $200. I am trying to keep the car numbers matching but think the repair cost is a bit much. Am I wrong? The mechanic told me I would be happier with the repaired radiator vs. the aluminum which will require some modification to mount properly. He also thinks the OEM radiator will cool my 396 better than its aluminum replacement.
Aluminum or Copper / Brass radiator
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I prefer the look of the copper/brass radiators in old cars.
I had the original Harrison recored and repaired in my '54 Chevy about 5 years ago. It recently began leaking again. The guy that did the work guaranteed it, but he is no longer in business. So I purchased a new copper/brass that was made by US Radiator in California. That's what I should have done to begin with. It doesn't have Harrison stamped on the tank, but who cares --- it looks good, doesn't leak, and my car now runs cooler with it than before. It mounts exactly the same as the original, unlike the aluminum ones that oftentimes have to be fiddled with to fit properly.
I had the original Harrison recored and repaired in my '54 Chevy about 5 years ago. It recently began leaking again. The guy that did the work guaranteed it, but he is no longer in business. So I purchased a new copper/brass that was made by US Radiator in California. That's what I should have done to begin with. It doesn't have Harrison stamped on the tank, but who cares --- it looks good, doesn't leak, and my car now runs cooler with it than before. It mounts exactly the same as the original, unlike the aluminum ones that oftentimes have to be fiddled with to fit properly.
That's a smokin cheap price! My cost on that core is more than $400.
Keep the old and get a mishimoto.
Numbers matching radiator? I've heard of numbers matching engine and trans but never a radiator! I guess they don't build them like they used to.
Numbers matching radiator? I've heard of numbers matching engine and trans but never a radiator! I guess they don't build them like they used to.
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Kestas
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Copper/brass will cool much better than aluminum for the same architecture.
I too was faced with the exact same dilemma with my 71 Cutlass... $400 for repair or $200 for an aluminum replacement. I went ahead and fixed it myself.
What is the damage to your radiator?
I too was faced with the exact same dilemma with my 71 Cutlass... $400 for repair or $200 for an aluminum replacement. I went ahead and fixed it myself.
What is the damage to your radiator?
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Keep the old and get a mishimoto.
Numbers matching radiator? I've heard of numbers matching engine and trans but never a radiator! I guess they don't build them like they used to.
The original Radiator says Harrison on it, Some also have I.D. tags......A 4 core rad with a trans cooler will have a different code than a a 4 core without.
Keep the old and get a mishimoto.
Numbers matching radiator? I've heard of numbers matching engine and trans but never a radiator! I guess they don't build them like they used to.
The original Radiator says Harrison on it, Some also have I.D. tags......A 4 core rad with a trans cooler will have a different code than a a 4 core without.
On my 68 L36 Corvetter Roadster, I had the original radiator recored. The tanks were no great, but were OK. He replaced the Harrison tags and did a great job overall.
This is a very original car.
I have had other, poor results in the past... Not this time.
Having said that, modern aluminum radiators are far more efficient than my 50 year old radiator.
Modern radiators have wider tubes and are thinner enabling better airflow and heat transfer.
Aluminum is lighter and stronger than brass-copper.
Both will work, especially if your car is stock.
I take it your stocker is a 4 row; my Vette is.
What would I do? You should Google DeWitt radiators. They are the best. Pricey...
I have not used one of those $200 after market radiators, but have heard good things about them.
Good luck.
DeWitt - Chevelle direct replacement
This is a very original car.
I have had other, poor results in the past... Not this time.
Having said that, modern aluminum radiators are far more efficient than my 50 year old radiator.
Modern radiators have wider tubes and are thinner enabling better airflow and heat transfer.
Aluminum is lighter and stronger than brass-copper.
Both will work, especially if your car is stock.
I take it your stocker is a 4 row; my Vette is.
What would I do? You should Google DeWitt radiators. They are the best. Pricey...
I have not used one of those $200 after market radiators, but have heard good things about them.
Good luck.
DeWitt - Chevelle direct replacement
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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
The original Radiator says Harrison on it, Some also have I.D. tags......A 4 core rad with a trans cooler will have a different code than a a 4 core without.
4 row. A radiator only has 1 core. That core contains rows of tubes. One with 4 rows is a 4row,not 4core.
The original Radiator says Harrison on it, Some also have I.D. tags......A 4 core rad with a trans cooler will have a different code than a a 4 core without.
4 row. A radiator only has 1 core. That core contains rows of tubes. One with 4 rows is a 4row,not 4core.
Big Block, which means 4-row with GM vehicles, and you need all the cooling you can get. If Auto Trans will have the transmission cooler built in, if M/T then not. Some people will replace with an A/T rad on a M/T car, and use the trans cooler as an oil cooler, but with a collectible car it's best not to go there.
Replace with a rebuilt OEM radiator. The $200 you save with the AL version will cost you far more in resale or appraisal (for agreed value insurance), especially if you need to fabricate and install brackets. False economy.
Aluminum is an excellent heat dissipating metal, but it's not as good as Copper. If the AL rad cools better, it's not because of the metal used, it's because it will incorporate modern technology in the row configuration, flow direction, louver configuration, things like burrs and other impediments to flow in construction. The AL rads that get those "invisible" things right don't usually sell for less than your quote for the copper one, so I would be suspicious from the start unless I can confirm it's properly made.
Don't forget you will have to do a *complete* flush of your cooling system (engine, heater core, pump, etc) and change your coolant to one that is AL and Iron compatible if you make the change.
For example you can buy a Chinese AL rad for my Miata for $200, but a properly made one is $400~600. There's a reason for that.
Replace with a rebuilt OEM radiator. The $200 you save with the AL version will cost you far more in resale or appraisal (for agreed value insurance), especially if you need to fabricate and install brackets. False economy.
Aluminum is an excellent heat dissipating metal, but it's not as good as Copper. If the AL rad cools better, it's not because of the metal used, it's because it will incorporate modern technology in the row configuration, flow direction, louver configuration, things like burrs and other impediments to flow in construction. The AL rads that get those "invisible" things right don't usually sell for less than your quote for the copper one, so I would be suspicious from the start unless I can confirm it's properly made.
Don't forget you will have to do a *complete* flush of your cooling system (engine, heater core, pump, etc) and change your coolant to one that is AL and Iron compatible if you make the change.
For example you can buy a Chinese AL rad for my Miata for $200, but a properly made one is $400~600. There's a reason for that.
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