Transmission cooler temps

[spasm3]

Pulled our travel trailer to Asheville N.C. First trip since the trans rebuild, and with the new tru-cool max cooler( lpd 47391). Also i installed a temperature gauge. I also took the ecm and had PCM of nc install their mail order tune for towing.

Quite a difference. The truck is no rocket, but much much better on hills, not as mushy feeling. No spark knock at all. It is tuned for 93 octane, but they assured me that 87 will not hurt it, it will just pull timing. I run 93 towing anyway. In fact it used to spark rattle a bit towing even with 93 on a hot day. I'm happy. It will now pull overdrive on level towing, it did not have the torque to do it before( trans was rebuilt to allow towing in od). About a 4900 lb travel trailer. 3.73 rear end.

The Glow shift gauage is great as my truck is too old to give you trans temps on the dash.

Overall quite pleased.





This was an hour or so into the drive, 147 f !! nice and cool. In fact the hottest trans temp i saw was going up black mountain. I was in 2nd gear pulling about 3500 rpm or so and the temp was 174 f. Hottest i saw the whole trip. This was with a ambient outdoor temp of about 80-84 f.

I highly recommend this cooler!


View from the campsite.

 

[clinebarger]

The factory calibration runs way more Ignition Lead than necessary! LS engines have very efficient combustion chambers & Ideal Quench.......24 degrees BTDC is all they need. Anymore than that just causes pre-ignition & reduces max output.

Reducing Ignition Advance to achieve more Power/Torque (Even at lower engine speeds) seems counter intuitive.....Probably why "Tuners" really don't advertise it?
They sell you a 93 octane tune, But in reality.....It will now handle lower octane fuel than before while making more power.

Gen III LSx engines have "Flat-Response" Knock Sensors & are not very sensitive to light Spark Knock/Pre-Ignition.

 

[spasm3]

What you said makes sense, as it used to spark rattle a bit, even with 93, now it does not. Torque management was something else they said they removed 80% of the torque management.

It definitely feels better and less mushy, I did not see any additional fuel usage. I get 9-10 towing, this was unchanged.

An interesting note. I removed the fuel cap to check the fuel filler neck nuts ( I got another fuel filler neck from the pull it yard as mine is rusty), i set the cap in my truck bed as i tried different sockets on the small bolts to determine size. I drove to the LKQ yard and back before discovering it. It never threw a cel. Is should have set an evap code.

 

[zeng]

With adequate KV@40*C, this trans & cooler setup is going to last a long while, never mind towing.
Not much clue on tuning 'technology' though.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: spasm3

An interesting note. I removed the fuel cap to check the fuel filler neck nuts ( I got another fuel filler neck from the pull it yard as mine is rusty), i set the cap in my truck bed as i tried different sockets on the small bolts to determine size. I drove to the LKQ yard and back before discovering it. It never threw a cel. Is should have set an evap code.


Nah these are pretty hard to do! You need between 1/4 and 3/4 tank and two consecutive dead cold starts. Your return trip was a warm start.

Takes me ~2 weeks to "click in" an EVAP monitor on GM stuff.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: spasm3

An interesting note. I removed the fuel cap to check the fuel filler neck nuts ( I got another fuel filler neck from the pull it yard as mine is rusty), i set the cap in my truck bed as i tried different sockets on the small bolts to determine size. I drove to the LKQ yard and back before discovering it. It never threw a cel. Is should have set an evap code.


Nah these are pretty hard to do! You need between 1/4 and 3/4 tank and two consecutive dead cold starts. Your return trip was a warm start.

Takes me ~2 weeks to "click in" an EVAP monitor on GM stuff.


Thanks! I was worried that i would have an issue at inspection time.

 

[JustinH]

Smart guy to keep the trans temp under 200 degrees the whole time. Looks like a good setup, how did you plumb the cooler, did you use AN fittings and SS lines or rubber cooler hose?

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
Smart guy to keep the trans temp under 200 degrees the whole time. Looks like a good setup, how did you plumb the cooler, did you use AN fittings and SS lines or rubber cooler hose?


Rubber cooler hose. It runs through the radiator first, then the trans cooler. My installer bypassed the radiator. But i wanted the radiator to take off some of the heat first. So i plumbed the radiator back in. Basically you udo the top radiator line ( on this vehicle) and run a line to the cooler then back to the trans return line. I know in places where it gets really cold, that rubber lines can slip off, but i've never had that issue on other cars with coolers. It does not get that cold here.

I also had it mounted hose connections on top, so it does not drain back much after shutdown, and should purge air out easily.

Its a really big cooler for a 1500 class truck, but hey , why not? Around town without towing, the average temp was 127f.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Smart guy to keep the trans temp under 200 degrees the whole time. Looks like a good setup, how did you plumb the cooler, did you use AN fittings and SS lines or rubber cooler hose?


Rubber cooler hose. It runs through the radiator first, then the trans cooler. My installer bypassed the radiator. But i wanted the radiator to take off some of the heat first. So i plumbed the radiator back in. Basically you udo the top radiator line ( on this vehicle) and run a line to the cooler then back to the trans return line. I know in places where it gets really cold, that rubber lines can slip off, but i've never had that issue on other cars with coolers. It does not get that cold here.

I also had it mounted hose connections on top, so it does not drain back much after shutdown, and should purge air out easily.

Its a really big cooler for a 1500 class truck, but hey , why not? Around town without towing, the average temp was 127f.


Have put in several LPD coolers with this route plus a filter … never used the hose with the kit as I have more faith in Gates. Reckon there are better things out there, but Gates has not let me down …

 

[supton]

Where does the temp guage measure fluid temp? Before or after the cooler? Am guessing after.

This the 4L60? Do you notice a temp difference if the convertor runs unlocked?

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: supton
Where does the temp guage measure fluid temp? Before or after the cooler? Am guessing after.

This the 4L60? Do you notice a temp difference if the convertor runs unlocked?


4L60. The temp sensor is installed in the test port on the upper drivers side of the trans. Just above the pan. The highest temp i saw was in the 170 range while going up a steep incline in 2nd gear. I assume the TC was unlocked.

EDIT: I used glowshifts stubby temp sensor. I think the shipped one is too long for the 4L60.

 

[supton]

IIRC the 4L60 will lock up in 2nd gear. Of course at high rpm the slippage is (relatively) low, so heating shouldn't be bad.

I'm way out of my league here but wouldn't fluid go from pan to pump to cooler to transmission? So test port would be after cooler? Not sure if convertor dumps to pan or to cooler.

Just curious. On my truck I have two factory temp sensors, but for some reason I can only ever get one to read on my Scanguage, and that appears to be the convertor outlet. It responds very quick to convertor unlock (10 seconds?), and many a time I've seen 210, 220 on hills if I let it. 230 is the highest I've seen. Anyhow, I always get curious about these discussions, as cooler outlet impacts fluid temperature going to bearings and clutches (which then run hotter still), but convertor outlet can be much higher.

 

[meep]

nice setup. the cooler is clearly controlling temps. I would be interested to seeing what it looks like if it was plumbed

trans -- cooler -- radiator -- trans

reason being the cooler could knock the heat off but the rad cooler would provide cold weather pre-heat so the trans isn't running cold. My tundra was plumbed stock that way with the oem tow package. It typically never busted 180 unless towing a steep prolonged incline- summer temps with AC while towing generally stayed at 160F. The worst hill climbs were 220F, but those climbs had me concerned about axle temps more than trans temps.

I did the same as you and used gates hoses when replacing oem rubber and adding a spin-on filter. Never had any issues.

-m

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: supton

I'm way out of my league here but wouldn't fluid go from pan to pump to cooler to transmission? So test port would be after cooler? Not sure if convertor dumps to pan or to cooler.



I'm not sure where the test port is in relation to the fluid path. Its the only option I knew of to install the temp sensor.

 

[clinebarger]

On a 4L60E.....The Pressure Check Port is dead-headed, Your sender/sensor has no fluid flowing across it. That can cause false readings.

I recommend that you compare your gauge readings to Scan data readings.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted By: supton
IIRC the 4L60 will lock up in 2nd gear.


While they do have the ability, Only Diesels were configured that way.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: clinebarger
On a 4L60E.....The Pressure Check Port is dead-headed, Your sender/sensor has no fluid flowing across it. That can cause false readings.

I recommend that you compare your gauge readings to Scan data readings.


Wow did not know that. Is there anywhere else to plug in the sensor? I don't own a scan gauge.( I don't even know what they cost.)

 

[supton]

Can you get a Tee to go inline with the cooler? Could get two, and swap between cooler inlet/outlet and get an idea of both temps (engineer in me showing).

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
On a 4L60E.....The Pressure Check Port is dead-headed, Your sender/sensor has no fluid flowing across it. That can cause false readings.

I recommend that you compare your gauge readings to Scan data readings.


Wow did not know that. Is there anywhere else to plug in the sensor? I don't own a scan gauge.( I don't even know what they cost.)


If you have an Android phone or tablet, the Torque app is about $5.00. A Bluetooth transmitter for your OBD port will be another $20 or so from Amazon. That setup reads trans temp on my 2001 Silverado.

I have the smallish factory auxiliary cooler, and mine runs at least 185, unloaded, at interstate speeds or stoplight driving with ambient temps around 80.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic


If you have an Android phone or tablet, the Torque app is about $5.00. A Bluetooth transmitter for your OBD port will be another $20 or so from Amazon. That setup reads trans temp on my 2001 Silverado.

I have the smallish factory auxiliary cooler, and mine runs at least 185, unloaded, at interstate speeds or stoplight driving with ambient temps around 80.


My wife has a galaxy s9, is that an android? ( I use a flip phone).