Piecing together bypass kit.

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Hello! Truck is a 2016 Ford F450, 6.7 diesel. Looking to save money over an Amsoil kit, but I want to bounce my strategy here first. Perma Cool sandwich adapter

https://shop.perma-cool.com/1836-Sandwich-Adapter-1-16-thread-1836.htm

Going to do a LuberFiner LFP9750 on the complimenting remote mount. Will the Perma Cool adapter work without any modifications for this system, pretty sure flow restriction will be 1/16”, either on the filter base or built into the filter.

The truck had emissions intact, I have no interest to delete. There is no tuning, it has a large dry element with pre filter on the intake, I can go 6 months without changing, or longer. I have a Stage 3 Snow Performance methanol kit going in also, lower exhaust temps and reduced regen intervals. It also has an aftermarket coolant filter.

Last q, looking at the basic systems that feed bypas oil through the filler cap, doesn’t this reduce oil pressure with XX amount of oil dumping into the oil pan instead of being fed back into the block? This is the primary reason I want to use the sandwich adapter, it’s re-routed for filteration but is fed back into the block in the same manner as a stock system, I could be wrong but this to me doesn’t show a drop in oil pressure. Thx for the time, and your comments.

Also to add, the reason for a bypass on a new truck, my dealership is very flexible with what I do, I’m not concerned with warranty. I don’t plan to trade anytime soon, I’ll be keeping this truck at least 5-6 years. Maybe more if it doesn’t have issues. With my hostile climate, it isn’t hot but it’s dusty, all year long up in central BC. Regardless of oil filter brand, oil brand, mineral, synthetic, or viscosity, miles between regens extend to 225-250 miles after a service, but the mileage between regens drop considerably by the time you hit 4,000miles on the oil. Lots of additives still present, but it’s filthy. This has been the same over 4 trucks since 2011, all the same motors, with full emissions, stock air box or the large s&b air filter I’m running now. Fuel is the biggest factor on regen frequency, and sometimes the fuel isn’t so good, but I do see this pattern with regen frequency that I don’t see when traveling to places with much less dust. Thx again for the time, sorry for the novel.
 
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No that is not what you want that is to be used when installing a cooler. It will route oil to the cooler then return back to the oil galley. You wan to just sample oil supply. The simplest most low buck solution is to tap into the oil system at the oil pressure switch or sensor with a Tee and run to your bypass setup and return to the sump or valve cover.
 
Thx for the reply Fred, but I don’t follow a few comments. To clarify, i do understand the adapters designed intent, but I’m not plumbing in an oil cooler to the sandwich adapter, just the bypass lines stepped down to a 1/4”-3/8” diameter line. I was hoping this adapter would just flow according to the 1/16” restriction. Also, you don’t have concerns with oil pressure dropping if feeding back into the fill cap? I wanted to avoid that setup as I’ve commented in my OP, some clarity on why it’s a non issue would be great. Thx.
 
I bought a kit on eBay from Oil Charge Systems. All top quality components, Amsoil spin-on filter. Feeds the filtered oil back to the oil fill cap. No drilling, cutting, crimping. The oil lines are pre-made.
 
Because a bypass filter is intended to bypass a small amount of oil through the filter and return it to sump. Bypass filters are generally very flow restrictive. They rely on high pressure differential to work properly. They are not designed for nor should they be used in a full flow setup which is what you would be doing if you routed the oil from that adapter to the filter and back again.
You will not see any noticeable amount of pressure loss in a properly designed bypass setup. The oil system should be capable of providing much more oil flow than the engine needs.
 
Interesting, thx for taking the time! I cancelled the order and will focus on a more traditional strategy. I thought the 1/16” flow restriction down stream on the filter block would of been all I needed to limit flow and keep the remaining volume focused at the oem full flow on the adapter.
 
CrazyMike
I'm all for saving money, but how much money are you thinking you'll save? Although I run a Dual bypass filter setup on my gas engine, I run the same filters that you would run on your 6.7L PSD. I can tell you without exception that my Amsoil Dual bypass BMK 23-EA works [censored] Good! If I'm not mistaken your 6.7L PSD is about a 15-20k engine.
 
I hear you, the price considering I have the fittings, really all the equipment I’d need for install, an Amsoil dual bypass is over $700 cdn delivered, the single pass is $600, where a sandwich adapter, EABP110 or LFP9750, and remote mount would be under $200 by comparison. I’m also not a fan of -40f and colder weather, where a block heater can heat water jackets and pan oil to make a cold start trouble free, but a full pass filter and it’s internal bypass is 2’ or more away from that heat source, I’m not so sure. Regardless, I’m not finding an adapter that will allow a bypass feed and return while keeping the filter attached to the block. I thought this permacool was the ticket.
 
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FWIW, maybe price was the wrong wording, I find it a PITA to buy the whole kit when I have so many workable parts. The hoses, I’ve seen many premium quality hydraulic hoses grenade over the years in cold weather, maybe it’s apples and oranges comparing that to an engine’s oil pump.
 
A bypass can lower particle counts, and extend OCI. That's the short version.
In reality, for the majority of folks, it's really no more than bragging rights, especially if you continue to change at 5k and are keeping the oil clean by replacement vs. filtering.
But, crazy mike and I are from the same thought. I still want one too. I had one on my 6.0, more for insurance to keep the injectors happy. I bought a Racor for my 6.7 to mount on the frame close to the factory spin on. I'll buy the parts for the lines from anfittingsdirect, and tee off the temp sender above the filter. I have an Amsoil BP-89 I'm mounting in the factory oil cap.
The new Racor absolute looks like a solid unit and similar technology to a Frantz.
Racor Absolute
I bought an older model LFS801 for my truck.
Bypass Series
I agree that oilchargesystems is a solid company. Good folks, complete kits available.
 
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beanoil,

That Absolute unit does look nice. Similar to the way the Frantz Oil Refiner (newest version of the Frantz Filter) works. At 12 inches in height, that may be a squeeze in most engine bays. Alternative area mounting might be needed. Of course, now that I've seen one down the road I'm just going to have to get one for mounting on one of my trucks!!! Thanks beanoil for hooking me on to yet another filter!!! Like I really need another Bypass, well yea, I guess I do...
 
No matter how you decide to build your bypass make sure you use small enough restriction to bypass filter. I want to say most people use like .030" hole restriction into the bypass. Someone correct me if im wrong here on size. But you want small hole specially off off the oil pressure sensor cause thats main oil gallery.
 
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That"s right. I run a .030 restrictor fitting off of my sandwich adapter below the oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: xtell
That"s right. I run a .030 restrictor fitting off of my sandwich adapter below the oil filter.

I believe Frantz and Motorguard both used 1/16" orifices which when calculated flows about 4 times as much as 0.030"
 
Originally Posted by Purpfox
Yep, in 1000 miles i significantly lowered my PC. And thats on a gaser. Diesel will be much more pronounced


The whole point of a bypass is to extend the time that the build up of contaminates stays in direct ratio to mileage driven. Once the contaminates build up at a higher rate than they did over the first 1000 miles then you must change the oil. Delaying that is where a bypass filter can help. You are not looking for a bypass to reduce the PC in the first 1000.
 
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