Ever replaced rusty brake lines?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
8,137
Location
Michigan
A mechanic friend of mine does many brake line replacements. I never realized this was an issue until he told me. I have never replaced one on any of my vehicles.
 
Use copper nickel or do it again in a few years. Let me play contrarian. Brake lines typically last ~ 20yrs in my patch of the rust belt. R+R'ing with steel lines will get you another ~20 yrs. Are you gonna have that 20yr old car when its pushing 40? Just saying.

I've been R+R'Ing steel lines for ages. It aint rocket surgery. That said, how much more is the CU/NI over the steel? It should work easier, then again 3/16 steel lines can be formed into smooth curves by hand. Flaring is easy, once you get the moves down.
 
You haven't kept your vehicles long enough. Take a close look at your Grand Marquis as it's getting close.

Generally after about 14-15 years in the salt belt, the OE lines may need to be replaced. And as Donald said, use the copper/nickel/zinc (green coating)replacement lines or you'll be replacing them soon(er).
 
Once, on my old Impala when I blew out the line while making a panic stop after someone ran a stop sign.
 
Yes I had to replace the lines in my '97 Mercury Tracer wagon commuter after one blew out the day after adjusting my parking brake system.

I was coming up to a red light at 45 mph and began to brake and "pop" the pedal went to the floor and no brakes. Thank God I had a perfectly functioning e-brake system as I missed all those cars at the light by inches.

Yes the original Ford lines lasted 20 years but I also used the copper ones. It's not a job that you want to do twice. Also you're better off replacing the entire length. Trying to patch onto rusty lines just ends up being a piggy back race a foot at a time lol.

 
Been driving old cars for years, never had a problem.


Until about a week ago. Had a brake issue on my 20-year-old Accord, thought it might be a rear cylinder for some reason, or maybe a master cylinder.

Messed around with the rear brakes, put on new shoes and replaced one of the cylinders. After I bled, I tried the pedal and had a gusher of fluid. Rusty line going to the cylinder.
 
Originally Posted By: brages
Shouldn't there be some jackstands in those photos above?


They're there, just out of view...

Safety first!!
 
Originally Posted By: brages
Shouldn't there be some jackstands in those photos above?


He might have jacked up the car to take a picture to post. Thanks for the pic.
 
Only when I was young and nieve.

I bought my 2002 Ford Ranger 'new' and immediately coated the brake lines with Never-Sieze.

Today, if I wipe the grease off, they look brand new.
 
No. I've traded out when they started looking bad. Usually the rest of the car isn't too far behind--everything is rusty and showing signs of wear and age.

Not sure if I'd go steel or ni-cop. If copper is easier to work with I'd probably do that. But I get what the steel users are saying, the original lines lasted 20 years, and it is very unlikely in my salt enviroment that the rest of the car is going to see another 20.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: copcarguy

Surprised it needed lines, doesn't look very rusty at all.
 
My '97 Taurus blew a line in the back. Wherever they put the plastic coating it was good as new. But going behind the gas tank and across the body to the right rear was rusty as can be. Never saw any rinsing from the under carriage car wash spray. Under the drivers seat was another area. They use the plastic to protect from rocks I think.
 
I've replaced many brake lines. When one line looks bad it's a good bet the others aren't far behind, and I'll do the whole car. It usually takes a couple evenings once you have all the lines lined up ready for bending.

I've even replaced it on cars with rustproofing. Unfortunately, the lines rusted on the shady side of rustproofing.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top