'13 KTM Duke 690, Silkolene 10w60, 1,015miles

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Here's the latest report for my KTM. Figured I'd try a new 10w60, Silkolene, and see how the engine liked it.

WEL1rCD.png


To view the spreadsheet with all the oil reports visit:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pwqbOCfafYeHwalhctrVMPdlDbIH45oc236MucfM8IE/edit?usp=sharing
 
What the heck?

According to this, a SAE 60 grade should have the following cSt values at 100C:

21.90-26.09

So your 10W60 sheared down to a 30?!

What oil was used for the 9/18/16 sample date? That one held up remarkably well for 2k miles.
 
Did they test the viscosity correctly? If yes, this oil really sheared!
But with the low flash point, I wonder if there isn't more fuel than the reported 0,5%.

Edit : the oil for the 2000 miles run was Amsoil SAE60, hence the shearing resistance.
 
10W-60 oils are ridiculous. They try to be two too-different things at the same time. The final formulation process occurs in the engine, where they quickly often become xW-30 oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
What the heck?

According to this, a SAE 60 grade should have the following cSt values at 100C:

21.90-26.09

So your 10W60 sheared down to a 30?!

What oil was used for the 9/18/16 sample date? That one held up remarkably well for 2k miles.


Yet to see anything come out of a KTM resemble its original viscosity.
 
Hey albertdi,

Your lead count of 219 for (1000 miles) on a catted bike is a little high,. Id scale it back down alittle . like 80 to 100 ppm max . Probably didnt give you any issue, but no reason to over do it, unless you are liking it. Your iron dropped alittle though.

20w50 mc Valvoline is running $4.50 at walmart , if into savings.

Especially for 1000 miles, you're not getting and financial benefit with $15 oil, at that milege
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Especially for 1000 miles, you're not getting and financial benefit with $15 oil, at that milege
The oil is about a poor of an oil as it gets, it dropped out of grade.
 
Have you ever considered Motul 300V 4T 15W-50? Perhaps it will do a little better than some of the other oils you have tried so far.
 
Originally Posted By: uzun
Have you ever considered Motul 300V 4T 15W-50? Perhaps it will do a little better than some of the other oils you have tried so far.


I have. It's on my list of oils to try. At this point, trying new oils is a data-driven curiosity, and a costly one at that: $40 for two liters, $28 for the analysis. I don't anticipate unearthing anything life changing oil wise at this point with my moto. But, if I get bored and want more data, I may throw some money toward the Motul next year.

I am satisfied with running straight weight AMSOIL SAE 60 for however many miles I ride during the hot summer, and valvoline 20w50 conventional the rest of the year with 1000 miles intervals. Drain, and refill. Drain and refill.
 
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Hey albertdi,

Your lead count of 219 for (1000 miles) on a catted bike is a little high,. Id scale it back down alittle . like 80 to 100 ppm max . Probably didnt give you any issue, but no reason to over do it, unless you are liking it. Your iron dropped alittle though.

20w50 mc Valvoline is running $4.50 at walmart , if into savings.

Especially for 1000 miles, you're not getting and financial benefit with $15 oil, at that milege


No cat, no O2 sensor on my bike (shhhh). Waiting for my local walmart to re-stock the valv 20w-50.

Not sure whether to keep running leaded race fuel. My jug just ran out and my local supplier no longer carries it.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Especially for 1000 miles, you're not getting and financial benefit with $15 oil, at that milege
The oil is about a poor of an oil as it gets, it dropped out of grade.


Amen! Now I know! It was a pretty shade of red though! Gotta find value in something!
 
That ain't no 60 weight
grin.gif


I mean, it would be nice to see it end in at minimum a 40 weight range.

1000 mile OCI? Valvoline's 20w50. With a starting viscosity of 20cst, you'll probably end up around 14-15.
 
O M G

those above clearly have no clue

well maybe 1 does.

yes the flash of 375 shows way more fuel than 0.5%
once again the stoners misread their sample as their eyebrows went up in smoke.

however, with a 10-60 spread there is huge amount of VIIs. they became much smaller via the gearbox
and is probably the reason for at least 1 full grade worth of loss.

now, if you had a 390 flash like you have before, maybe i could believe 0.5% but not with 375
out of my 7 dozen uoa's i only have 5 with a flash under 375 and 1 of them is "fork oil"
the other 4 are 10wXX.
i just looked at one that has a flash of 365...1.5% fuel but still has a susvis of 68.4

this was clearly the worst uoa results you have. on maybe the most expensive oil.
clearly not worth the price.

steve
 
Run the oil to mfg recommendations quit the uoas and use the savings to buy a new bike in another 40,000 miles. I do enjoy the uoas though.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Run the oil to mfg recommendations quit the uoas and use the savings to buy a new bike in another 40,000 miles. I do enjoy the uoas though.


this will most likely be my last UOA on this vehicle, at least for a while. I've learned a lot from doing them. as mentioned above, I am satisfied with running straight weight AMSOIL SAE 60 for however many miles I ride during the hot summer, and valvoline 20w50 conventional the rest of the year with 1000 miles intervals. Drain, and refill. Drain and refill. I think I am done experimenting with oils. So, any future UOA would be just to get some data on how things are wearing at higher mileage.

The bike has 36k on it as of this morning. Radiator sprung a leak in Portland over the weekend. Second time this has happened. Clutch slave and master cylinder both leaking, busted fastener on brake pedal rearsets, and an oil leak either from the cam chain tensioner (if I'm lucky) or the starter o-ring (slightly less lucky). KTM, Keep, Throwin' Money. Got a new rear shock coming in the mail from nitron though...
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
why do you need a new shock?
too many lbs... gettin' all fat and sassy!

I had the OEM shock re-sprung 7k ago. But the internals of the oem shock are non-serviceable and tired.
 
Originally Posted By: albertdi
sunruh said:
why do you need a new shock?
too many lbs... gettin' all fat and sassy!

I had the OEM shock re-sprung 7k ago. But the internals of the oem shock are non-serviceable and tired. [/quotecle,low car]We are getting you on a bicyb diet etc,,, we are a mean bunch here alberti
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: albertdi
sunruh said:
why do you need a new shock?
too many lbs... gettin' all fat and sassy!

I had the OEM shock re-sprung 7k ago. But the internals of the oem shock are non-serviceable and tired. [/quotecle,low car]We are getting you on a bicyb diet etc,,, we are a mean bunch here alberti


My plan is to not eat anything that casts a shadow
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
why do you need a new shock?
also, oem shock has now compression or rebound damping adjustment. only preload
 
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