2009 Honda CR-V Air Conditioning

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2009 Honda CR-V - 54000 miles

Air conditioning gauges are showing 72 psi on both the low side and high side with no change when vehicle is started and air conditioning put on. A 1000 rpm is noticed when the A/C is turned on. The A/C 4 pin relay in the main fuse panel is tested good by swapping out nearby relays along with the 7.5 fuse for the magnetic coil.
I have measured the air gap at the A/C clutch to be 20 and is believed to be correct. With the engine running, A/C on, I have tapped on the A/C clutch to see if it was a weak coil and it will not turn on. At this point I have assessed a bad A/C clutch and/or coil.

In 2012, I received a letter from Honda citing this problem and extending the warranty of the A/C clutch and coil for 7 years or 100,000 miles. I believe it is no longer valid. (2009)

I have the vacuum pump and the gauges. It appears there is no room for the clutch and coil to come off without pulling the compressor out from the bottom.

Questions are: (1) Am I reading this right from the tests conducted? (2) And since this will be a full compressor replacement, what have the experienced members purchased as a quality reliable replacement? (Brand name)
 
I am not familiar how to test for that other than the harness plug-in that is on top of the compressor which lies under the alternator. From under the vehicle, with the plastic in the right wheel well as the plastic under the radiator housing removed, access is still very limited to the harness connection. Without pulling the power steering reservoir and some other supports, there is no other way I know how to probe that feed.

Since it appears by the rpm drop that the PCM is sending signal to the coil and the 7.5 and relay is good, the probability in a bad wire connection without a blown fuse is?

Is there is different layman's method?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Did you check if the coil is receiving signal to activate?


+1

72 PSI might be too low of a pressure to activate a pressure switch.
 
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Curious to see some brands of compressors to use or ones to avoid as I'm getting ready to change the compressor in my 08 CR-V. I replaced the relay about a month ago but there are still times the clutch will not engage. Yesterday it stopped working while my wife was driving home on a 95 degree afternoon. However, after it sat in the shade for a couple hours it worked fine.

I thought about changing the clutch but the car is 10 years old and has 145k on it.

Looks like Rock Auto has a Denso for a little under $300. When changing the compressor, what other components should be changed?
 
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Originally Posted By: Recalculating
I am not familiar how to test for that other than the harness plug-in that is on top of the compressor which lies under the alternator. From under the vehicle, with the plastic in the right wheel well as the plastic under the radiator housing removed, access is still very limited to the harness connection. Without pulling the power steering reservoir and some other supports, there is no other way I know how to probe that feed.

Since it appears by the rpm drop that the PCM is sending signal to the coil and the 7.5 and relay is good, the probability in a bad wire connection without a blown fuse is?

Is there is different layman's method?


Since access is limited check if you are getting 12V at the fuse.
 
Since I still have static pressure with no internal compressor issues, I was just going to buy a new compressor and do the swap. After getting the new one up and running with all specs noted, I would take the original clutch and coil off and replace then store properly in case the new purchase goes belly up.

So Jim is thinking 72 psi in 70F is too low in the low side to activate the switch?
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Did you check if the coil is receiving signal to activate?


+1

72 PSI might be too low of a pressure to activate a pressure switch.
no. More like 20 psi.
 
I am not sure what Honda uses, for Toyota, I used Denso Compressor.
It is about the same price as aftermarket.

The good aftermarket is Sanden original, a lot of CKO Sanden.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ


Since access is limited check if you are getting 12V at the fuse.


I am getting 12v @ the fuse.
 
Originally Posted By: klt1986
Curious to see some brands of compressors to use or ones to avoid as I'm getting ready to change the compressor in my 08 CR-V. I replaced the relay about a month ago but there are still times the clutch will not engage. Yesterday it stopped working while my wife was driving home on a 95 degree afternoon. However, after it sat in the shade for a couple hours it worked fine.

I thought about changing the clutch but the car is 10 years old and has 145k on it.

Looks like Rock Auto has a Denso for a little under $300. When changing the compressor, what other components should be changed?



You might want to put some gauges on it to see what the pressures are. You maybe low on R134a.
 
Personally compressor replacement would be the last resort, especially since the problem most likely lies with the clutch and coil, not compressor internals. Opening the system up is always risky. It all sounds good on paper, but the reality is different.

Plus I don't think Honda AC compressors have a pressed in clutch and coil, it's just held by a bolt. Removal should be quite easy.
 
Double make sure that you are getting the voltage at the compressor. If you are then you should buy a new accumulator/dryer along with the new compressor. A shop will have to vacuum out the old refrigerant and will credit it to your account. A vacuum will need to be applied to the repaired system until any moisture is boiled out before recharging. GoodLuck!
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Personally compressor replacement would be the last resort, especially since the problem most likely lies with the clutch and coil, not compressor internals. Opening the system up is always risky. It all sounds good on paper, but the reality is different.

Plus I don't think Honda AC compressors have a pressed in clutch and coil, it's just held by a bolt. Removal should be quite easy.


You are correct that the clutch and coil are easy to remove. Where it is situated when mounted, it is not feasible. The clutch is less that half its width from the frame. I'd like to be able to get away from opening the system up.
 
Do what we did. Trade it in for a 2018 CRV. Our 08 had 180K with a finicky ac compressor. At idle it would die, once it got going it would work. Replaced all the relays with in the system the first time it happened. Worked for 4 years. Then started up again. Replaced the relays again. Worked then didn’t work.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Do what we did. Trade it in for a 2018 CRV. Our 08 had 180K with a finicky ac compressor. At idle it would die, once it got going it would work. Replaced all the relays with in the system the first time it happened. Worked for 4 years. Then started up again. Replaced the relays again. Worked then didn’t work.


Thats not happening.


My 2009 has 54k and other than this quirk, is set up with hitches and racks for all my outdoor activities. With the short warm season in northeast New York, it will be repaired before I buy another at $30k.
 
Originally Posted By: Recalculating
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Personally compressor replacement would be the last resort, especially since the problem most likely lies with the clutch and coil, not compressor internals. Opening the system up is always risky. It all sounds good on paper, but the reality is different.

Plus I don't think Honda AC compressors have a pressed in clutch and coil, it's just held by a bolt. Removal should be quite easy.


You are correct that the clutch and coil are easy to remove. Where it is situated when mounted, it is not feasible. The clutch is less that half its width from the frame. I'd like to be able to get away from opening the system up.


Jack up the engine from the oil pan a little, the rubber mounts should give and create the space necessary. You may need to disconnect the passenger engine mount if more movement is required. I had to do that on my Mazda 3 in order to replace the passenger side control arm.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Do what we did. Trade it in for a 2018 CRV. Our 08 had 180K with a finicky ac compressor. At idle it would die, once it got going it would work. Replaced all the relays with in the system the first time it happened. Worked for 4 years. Then started up again. Replaced the relays again. Worked then didn’t work.


Thought actually crossed my mind but I really don't won't a car payment right now.
 
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