Go from WS to Maxlife help TC Shudder?

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PLEASE don’t turn this into a WS vs Maxlife thread, we have one of those and I’ve read the whole thing about 10x. I’m fine with the potential risk of using Maxlife if it might help my issue here, so please let’s keep this thread fairly on topic. Thank you for the help.

I’ve got an 08 4runner with 180k on it. About 10k ago, it developed a slight shudder going uphill with the OD on, shifting to 4th removes the shudder. These transmissions are known to get TC shudder from the lockup, so I’m not concerned about the overall health of the transmission. I had the dealer do a full replacement of 13qts of WS and it fixed the shudder. Now 10k later, it’s back. I’m wondering if doing another full fluid swap of Maxlife which is a little higher V but still compatible and slightly higher synthetic quality would help get rid f the shudder. My other option is Shudderfixx.

On a related note, my 07 Rav4 V6 has the transmission whine (again non catastrophic) I did some drop and fills with WS but I’m also wondering if swapping Maxlife would be helpful here too.
 
My 04 Rav4 4cyl has had the transmission whine for the past 200k miles.

If you have new fluid and the shudder returned, I'd suspect the cause was mechanical and changing to another fluid won't help but you never know. Only one way to find out.
 
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Maxlife + Lubegard Red
BITOG cocktail.


This is a great combo and if any fluid can fix the shudder, this combo would be it.

I suspect the issue is mechanical, however, and the fluid swap is only going to be a kluge... and a temporary one at that. Try it and see, though.
 
Since your fluid is almost new, I think the best course of action is to add the Lubegard shudderfix to it. Should be able to do that without much trouble.
 
Originally Posted By: Dave1027
Since your fluid is almost new, I think the best course of action is to add the Lubegard shudderfix to it. Should be able to do that without much trouble.


Or this^^^
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Dave1027
Since your fluid is almost new, I think the best course of action is to add the Lubegard shudderfix to it. Should be able to do that without much trouble.


^This would be the easiest and lowest cost, and would be my first approach to the problem. Asumming it works, I would then wait another 5 or 10k and then replace with maxlife+lubegard.

I am currently in the middle of this with my Cad...using DexVI+lubegard, and all is well (didn't have shudder, but just kinda weird shifting until the car warmed up). I plan to replace with maxlife and lubegard next year.
 
Before that ATF change at 180k, how often was the fluid changed in your car? Was 180k the first time the trans ever got serviced? How did the dealer actually perform the flush? Most places, sometimes even the dealers, use a machine flush, which can do some harm and usually overfill the transmission. If there is too much fluid, it will foam.

You can try the shudderfixx, and if it doesn't help, change the fluid again.

Aren't you glad the transmission has a drain plug?
smile.gif
 
Fluid was changed at 170k, it was likely the first and only fluid exchange. The flush was done at a dealership where they used the machine that measures the output and replaces the fluid directly using the power of the transmissions pump. Basically the same as using the cooler line exchange method but a little more constant. No pressure was applied to the transmission. I checked it afterward and it was right on level. The rig drove perfectly for the last 10k miles, and the shudder was gone immediately after the flush. It just started coming back this week and only in very specific scenarios (mostly a small incline at about 35mph in overdrive while the engine/tranny is cold. I’m not worried about the overall condition of the transmission, as the shifting was like brand new upon fluid replacement. I’ll try one tube of Lubeguard Red as many other 4runner owners say this solves their problem entirely. I’ll switch to Maxlife when it hits 225k and do drop and fills every 25k after that.
 
I suspect your problem could be just enough crud buildup that the system works with brand new fluid, but begins to act up when that fluid has a bit of wear and contaminants. Standard WS may not have enough cleaning agents to revert the buildup, only enough to hold it at bay. Lubegard's friction modifiers and cleaning properties will help quite a bit, as as should Maxlife.

That combo worked wonders when I was getting hard shifting and sometimes whining. Instant improvement for the worst of the problem, probably because of clean fresh fluid. The remainder of the issues went away slowly over several thousand miles as the fluid cleaned buildup and revived seals in the valve body.
 
Thanks, this seems very reasonable. I’m adding the Lubeguard this weekend and as slight as the shudder is, I’m sure it will fix it. I’m only 18k from 200,000 right now, so maybe I’ll do a drain and fill with Maxlife at 195k to help clean things up then a full replacement at 200k. Hoping to make it to 300k someday, I love this vehicle.
 
Shudderfix gets my vote. Or one of the lubeguard products Red or Platinum. NOTE: Don't start with the full recommended dose (DO read the dosing). Start with a third of what they suggest and drive for a bit. if it needs more, add a little more.

When I've used LG in the past, it can impact shifting more than you'd want, or need. So I recommend using the least you need to get the desired result.

-m
 
I'm just curious if everything is still working good?
Also do these "power flushes" I only hear about here or other places online actually exist? Having worked at a couple dealership's and independents all the machines we used only flush using the transmission pump. It's the same as using the cooler line to flush only a bit more convenient for someone who is doing this maybe several times a day.

Everyone hear seems to like pan drops several times (way more work). Maybe for some vehicles this is the easiest way but on mine I remove the cooler lines and flush the entire capacity of the transmission every 30-50k and only go through the extra work of pulling the pan to change the filter every second fluid change.

I feel like a lot of people don't understand transmission "flushes" on here.
 
I missed this discussion when it started, the only thing I'd add is an inline filter (authentic Magnefine or Wix/SPX) on the trans cooler return hose. Likely that deposits too small to be caught by the pickup filter will be floating around after the flush, and there's risk they could clog passages or interfere with solenoid-operated valve operation.
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I feel like a lot of people don't understand transmission "flushes" on here.

I agree with your assessment. I am not aware of any "power flush" type of machine that pressurizes/back flows/etc. the system to cause harm. Like you said, most if not all shops use a T-Tech type of service that simply exchanges the fluid using the transmission's own pump. It's semantics: flush vs. exchange. I'm not sure why some people keep bringing up this concept of power flushes and possible damage.

Even companies that use Powerflush in their machine name are really just a non-pressurized fluid exchange system: http://www.bestwesterntransmission.com/services-transmission-repair/powerflush#Powerflush
 
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