Re-packing wheel bearings by age?

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JHZR2

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My 81 240D will be coming back out for family weekend use (beach trips) as soon as the rains pass.

It is all original. Original brakes (not hoses), and the car is set up so rotor replacement requires removal of the axle nut and re packing the bearings.

So the grease in there is original too...

It's a fairly closed environment, I guess. Not sure how badly the grease could oxidize over time without any real air exchange.

But should I consider re packing st least the front wheel bearings? How much is time a factor here?

Thanks!
 
Definitely repack them. Wear good disposable rubber gloves to repack the bearings, or get a bearing packer, either way wear gloves, it's messy. Watch a video on how to do it and get new seals, it's an easy job. Once you do one side, the other side will be twice as fast. Maybe 1-2 hours to do both sides?

Also learn how to tighten the axle but. Usually you don't have to tighten them down much, just a little snug until the wheel has some drag, then loosen and put in the cotter pin.
 
Seeing unitized hubs fail because of no way to service or lube them I wish for the old-school hub and spindle design.

Definitely repack them and change out the seals too.
 
About an hour each if all goes well. While you can adjust the hub nut by feel and it works its a little Mickey Mouse.
27.gif
MB has a spec for that you check with a dial indicator. It was set that way almost 40 years ago so I guess it works.

If time permits pull it apart and check everything out like caliper seals and splash shields and take care of anything not up to snuff. I would clean and repack with new seals at this age. USE MB green 2989005110 or a 265.1 approved grease, the yellow from back then has long been discontinued AFAIK.
Before anyone chimes in with just use valvoline or this or that one, MB has a spec and a short approved list, there maybe something to it or maybe not but its always safe to use approved products.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994

Also learn how to tighten the axle but. Usually you don't have to tighten them down much, just a little snug until the wheel has some drag, then loosen and put in the cotter pin.


That would end up being a tiny bit loose.
You should see how we torque roller wheel bearings on large aircraft where the tire/wheel assembly is several hundred pounds. You would never believe they would be torqued so tight!

Too loose destroys rollers bearings FASTER than too tight.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Nick1994

Also learn how to tighten the axle but. Usually you don't have to tighten them down much, just a little snug until the wheel has some drag, then loosen and put in the cotter pin.


That would end up being a tiny bit loose.
You should see how we torque roller wheel bearings on large aircraft where the tire/wheel assembly is several hundred pounds. You would never believe they would be torqued so tight!

Too loose destroys rollers bearings FASTER than too tight.


You cant compare aircraft to the type used on this car, the ones on aircraft are not adjusted by the center nut. Tightening the center nut does not alter the bearing preload.
A tight bearing will fail much faster than a slightly loose one.
MB cars spec .01 mm - .02 mm play at the hub.
Yes you can do it by feel but done right the bearings will go a very long time without service,
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Definitely repack them. Wear good disposable rubber gloves to repack the bearings, or get a bearing packer, either way wear gloves, it's messy. Watch a video on how to do it and get new seals, it's an easy job. Once you do one side, the other side will be twice as fast. Maybe 1-2 hours to do both sides?

Also learn how to tighten the axle but. Usually you don't have to tighten them down much, just a little snug until the wheel has some drag, then loosen and put in the cotter pin.


Ive done it before on other MB cars that Ive owned. MB has a decently rigorous procedure that doses grease by mass and sets the axle nut via dial indicator.

It works.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
About an hour each if all goes well. While you can adjust the hub nut by feel and it works its a little Mickey Mouse.
27.gif
MB has a spec for that you check with a dial indicator. It was set that way almost 40 years ago so I guess it works.

If time permits pull it apart and check everything out like caliper seals and splash shields and take care of anything not up to snuff. I would clean and repack with new seals at this age. USE MB green 2989005110 or a 265.1 approved grease, the yellow from back then has long been discontinued AFAIK.
Before anyone chimes in with just use valvoline or this or that one, MB has a spec and a short approved list, there maybe something to it or maybe not but its always safe to use approved products.


Agree to all.

So your standard recommendation of Mobil 1 for wheel bearings doesnt apply to MBs?

I was likely going to buy the packs of MB green unless there's something notably better...
 
I don't think there's anything special about the MB wheel bearing or the MB grease. This is just a wheel bearing, like any other double taper. Use you favorite wheel bearing grease and call it good. I use Mobil Infinitec. It's superior to Mobil 1 and readily available to me. Infinitec is specially made for wheel bearings but not popular in the industry because it isn't easily pumpable at manufacturing lines.
 
In power generation, we followed the procedures for mounting bearings found in the manufacturer of the equipment and/or the manufacturer of the bearing.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Trav
About an hour each if all goes well. While you can adjust the hub nut by feel and it works its a little Mickey Mouse.
27.gif
MB has a spec for that you check with a dial indicator. It was set that way almost 40 years ago so I guess it works.

If time permits pull it apart and check everything out like caliper seals and splash shields and take care of anything not up to snuff. I would clean and repack with new seals at this age. USE MB green 2989005110 or a 265.1 approved grease, the yellow from back then has long been discontinued AFAIK.
Before anyone chimes in with just use valvoline or this or that one, MB has a spec and a short approved list, there maybe something to it or maybe not but its always safe to use approved products.


Agree to all.

So your standard recommendation of Mobil 1 for wheel bearings doesnt apply to MBs?

I was likely going to buy the packs of MB green unless there's something notably better...


I realize its like any other Timken style tapered roller bearing but like many German vehicles they have a lube spec. Like engine oil specs if we are to treat them as meaningless and say oil is just oil then sure you can use anything.
If it has no spec just has GL 2 I use Mobil 1 but I rather follow the spec if it has one than not if they are available.
Not for nothing but the original went almost 40 years so...

BTW Fuchs has a approved grease in tubes but I am not sure of the number. I will see if I can find it.
 
Originally Posted By: Y_K
Chevron Delo Grease ESI EP is on MB-Approval 265.1


On the Mercedes approved wheel bearing grease list- so its gotta be super good. And it contains 5% moly. The anti-moly in wheel bearing grease faction here on BITOG may have something new to argue about.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
Delo® Grease ESI® HD EP is a comprehensive line of greases that are available with or without molybdenum disulfide


The one that is 265.1 does not appear to have moly at all never mind 5%. Too bad, your attempt to get an argument going got no bites.

https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=491507&docFormat=PDF


Lighten up Bro-
My source indicated it came in two version: 3% and 5% moly. Sometimes, ppl merely intend a joke.
 
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