2017 Acura TLX 2.4L, 4,441 Miles Idemitsu Zepro

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This was the car’s third oil change since new, the last being very short because of an upcoming trip.

Two comments:

The oil is Idemistu Zepro 0w-20 with Molybdenum. Haven’t seen this in a UOA before, so thought it would be of interest. And the 625ppm of Moly says the label doesn’t lie.

My primary reason for the UOA was looking for fuel dilution, which is an issue with the other Honda K24W engine in our household. But 2.3% dilution is truly negligible for a DI engine and I’m happy with that. Viscosity is hanging in there, too.

Questions:

Nickel is an unexpected finding. My other K24W showed none in any UOA and this has me puzzled: is nickel even used in Honda K24s? I don’t recall ever hearing nickel was an oil additive. Admittedly 4ppm is not much, but any ideas?

Aluminum is still on the high side, but as the car only had 3,700 miles or so when this fill was added I guess this could still be residue from break in and some additional break-in wear. Given some copper is still showing up, might break-in be the answer?

This sample included quite a few highway miles and the OLM said 70% oil life remaining (60-70%) at the time of sampling. With the TBN of 5.67, this seems about right.

So, while I’m happy with the fuel dilution and other wear metals, any general comments or on nickel and aluminum would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Nickel could be valvetrain, wrist pins, but on a newer Honda with only 4 ppm I'd bet on some tiny amount of residual factory anti-seize.

Permatex-38794_77124_DV_WebXL.jpg



Watch it but don't sweat it. If you still have some after a few more oil changes, switch oil and see what happens.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Nickel could be valvetrain, wrist pins, but on a newer Honda with only 4 ppm I'd bet on some tiny amount of residual factory anti-seize.

Permatex-38794_77124_DV_WebXL.jpg



Watch it but don't sweat it. If you still have some after a few more oil changes, switch oil and see what happens.


Thanks for the thought. I have yet to see a Honda that didn’t report 0 for nickel, so it would seem it isn’t used in engines or in anti-seize compounds. But maybe there was a short-term anti-seize change at the engine manufacturing facility or maybe the dealer had to fix something in the 6 months the poor thing sat unloved on the lot. Or maybe it’s a lab error.

But I’ll try a different oil and resample. Engine works great otherwise:no measurable oil consumption, terrific fuel economy, more than adequate power, etc. And minimal fuel dilution for a DI Honda. Easily the best new car I’ve owned.
 
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I just put in IDemitsu 0w-20 SN and its giving me more power in combo with the Tough Guard oil filter!! SUrprisingly, the FE isn't any more or any less but the power seems to be up across al range but better power before 2000 RPM.
 
Want to take the opportunity to compliment Oil Analyzers/Polaris, the source of this UOA.

I responded to the first UOA noting I had never seen a Honda engine with nickel reported as a wear metal and asking if a lab error was possible. They immediately ordered a retest and I received the results the following day.

Wear metals on the retest remained the same, so the nickel mystery remains. But lots of credit to OAI for indulging the concerns of a very small client. Nice people to do business with.
 
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
I just put in IDemitsu 0w-20 SN and its giving me more power in combo with the Tough Guard oil filter!! SUrprisingly, the FE isn't any more or any less but the power seems to be up across al range but better power before 2000 RPM.


No it isn't.

There's no way two oils of the same grade are going to yield power differences enough to be felt (which is roughly around 20HP, IIRC). This is all in your head.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
I just put in IDemitsu 0w-20 SN and its giving me more power in combo with the Tough Guard oil filter!! SUrprisingly, the FE isn't any more or any less but the power seems to be up across al range but better power before 2000 RPM.


No it isn't.

There's no way two oils of the same grade are going to yield power differences enough to be felt (which is roughly around 20HP, IIRC). This is all in your head.

I fully agree.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
I just put in IDemitsu 0w-20 SN and its giving me more power in combo with the Tough Guard oil filter!! SUrprisingly, the FE isn't any more or any less but the power seems to be up across al range but better power before 2000 RPM.


No it isn't.

There's no way two oils of the same grade are going to yield power differences enough to be felt (which is roughly around 20HP, IIRC). This is all in your head.




I’m surprised anyone would say their oil filter gave them more power. HBM is just fishing for reaction. Kids like to do that.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
I just put in IDemitsu 0w-20 SN and its giving me more power in combo with the Tough Guard oil filter!! SUrprisingly, the FE isn't any more or any less but the power seems to be up across al range but better power before 2000 RPM.


No it isn't.

There's no way two oils of the same grade are going to yield power differences enough to be felt (which is roughly around 20HP, IIRC). This is all in your head.


You look like a kid, thunktac. Your valvoline ain't doing squat for you, much less what I get with the Ideitsu, JUNIIOR_mints.



I’m surprised anyone would say their oil filter gave them more power. HBM is just fishing for reaction. Kids like to do that.
 
Oil change making car faster

Not sure what some of you are yappin' about. It's been proven that fresh oil performs better then old oil. Just because you can't feel a 5hp increase with your old poorly calibrated butt dyno, doesn't mean someone else can't either.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Oil change making car faster

Not sure what some of you are yappin' about. It's been proven that fresh oil performs better then old oil. Just because you can't feel a 5hp increase with your old poorly calibrated butt dyno, doesn't mean someone else can't either.


A manual car driven at different times under uncontrolled conditions is hardly what I'd call scientifically sound data to support your posit.
 
Agreed, but that's just one example. I've seen dyno runs as well which showed more power on fresh Lube. I'll let you google that one up, if it's a subject of interest.

My cars always feel more peppy with new one, even if the drained oil only had 3,000 miles on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Agreed, but that's just one example. I've seen dyno runs as well which showed more power on fresh Lube. I'll let you google that one up, if it's a subject of interest.

My cars always feel more peppy with new one, even if the drained oil only had 3,000 miles on it.


The only ones I've ever seen were selling something. Like Royal Purple.

There are far bigger things to be chasing for power than oil, particularly when it is within the same grade.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Artem
Agreed, but that's just one example. I've seen dyno runs as well which showed more power on fresh Lube. I'll let you google that one up, if it's a subject of interest.

My cars always feel more peppy with new one, even if the drained oil only had 3,000 miles on it.


The only ones I've ever seen were selling something. Like Royal Purple.

There are far bigger things to be chasing for power than oil, particularly when it is within the same grade.


Changing out the Betty Boop air freshener would probably be more effective.
 
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