Problems with brake job and defective rotors pics

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Hi guys!
I have a 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 half ton 4x4 with 88,000 total miles. It is a very good condition. It needed new front brakes. My good buddy who is an ASE Master diesel Mechanic owed me a couple favors so he did the brake job for me. He put on new NAPA Premium pads and did nothing to the rotors because they were in "excellent condition" The new brakes start squealing so badly and so loud it was embarrassing! This started with in 50 miles. Everything else was fine. I told my buddy and he said to bring it back. We replaced the rotors with new NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and new NAPA Adaptive One pads which are the best NAPA sells. With in 50 miles they start to squeal again! I was easy on the new brakes as I could not break them in as the street was very crowded. Then at night when things were calm I did 10 firm stops from 45-60 mph with a driving 2 minute cool down in between stops. This is when the loud squealing started. I did this same procedure with other vehicles and no problems.

Also now the truck pulls noticeable to the left when braking firmly at any speed. It did not do this before. The brake peddle also feels spongy and seems to have to go almost all the way to the floor to get enough pressure to stop the truck. I asked my mechanic buddy and he said we did nothing to get air in the system and we did not "bleed" them because of this. He said it was most likely the brake booster causing the spongy peddle.

One of the Ultra Premium Rotors has a huge chunk missing from it. I was [censored] when I saw this and how it could have gotten passed quality control and the factory sprayed the polymer coating right over the flaw. Because of the timing of the brake job I had no choice but to have him install it. He thought it would be ok and they are warranted for life. What do you think of these pictures? Should I insist they be replaced or is this just cosmetic?

So no I have done the brakes twice and spent even more money for all the new parts and I'm worse off. I have a truck with a really spongy peddle, brakes squealing loudly and pulling hard to the left side when breaking. How do I correct this so these issues are fixed once and for all? My mechanic buddy really is a good mechanic and has a great reputation. He is super busy so I think he may be rushing this and just slapping the parts on. I don't know?!?!?
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Boy, if that’s Napa’s idea of Ultra premium, what does their economy rotor look like?!?! Just scratched them off my list of possible brake suppliers. My F150 is ready for brakes; I think I’ll just bIte the bullet and buy OEM. It’ll be more $$$ but I’m pretty sure Motorcraft parts are better than that!
 
I'd say that's unacceptable in a new part.

If I had one I might continue to run it, but it does look like it might be a stress concentrator which could initiate a crack, especially as it gets a bit thinner.
 
I've always inspected any part on the parts counter before I pay for it. I would've told the counter-guy to get me another one. Since you got your brakes done at a friends shop he probably had a jobber drop the parts off and they have no control of what's being sent out.

Napa's ultra premium rotors are basically coated economy rotors. Raybestos makes NAPA brake parts and they have a comparison chart on their site:
https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/products/rotors
 
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I would request a replacement.
If they turn round and say they will fine, insist on getting that statement in writing for evidence in the event of an accident or failure

In terms of the squealing I would be taking a look at the calipers, ensure they are not sticking.
 
A pad slap gone bad. Pad squeal is caused by pad vibration. Some calipers have a spring to dampen it. Others use a goo on the back of the pad. Pull is a sticky caliper, sounds like a slide. Chances are the original rotors were OK. Are they still around? Also, spongy pedal caused by boiled brake fluid with water in it? Cheap dusty pads, usually don't squeal, BTW.
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When buying rotors, insist on Raybestos, Wagner or OEM. Brand of pads aren’t that important. I hope you are not installing ceramic pads. Ceramic pads will cause squealing. Semi-metallic pads are all you need. All of the old brake fluid should be evacuated and the system refilled with new fluid and bled properly.
 
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Bring it back. Shouldnt look like that. I dont think its the cause of your trouble though. Stuck caliper comes to mind and proper greasing of back of the pads and guides? Not sure what else it could be. Take the calipers off and clean them, repack with fresh grease.
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
When buying rotors, insist on Raybestos, Wagner or OEM. Brand of pads aren’t that important. I hope you are not installing ceramic pads. Ceramic pads will cause squealing. Semi-metallic pads are all you need. All of the old brake fluid should be evacuated and the system refilled with new fluid and bled properly.


What? Ceramic causes squealing? Ughh ok, never had that issue.
 
That's disappointing, especially for a Napa premium rotor. I was trying to go and see what Napa had for our vehicles when I have been working on them these last few years. I thought they had higher quality parts compared some of the other auto parts stores. Just goes to show, if you can, to look over parts before you buy them.

As far as the brake squeal, did your buddy put anything on the backs of the pads? I didn't use to do it, then, I replaced the brake pads on our SUV. They squealed, so, I pulled them back off and put the same lube I used on the caliper pins. That took care of the squeal, they were quiet after that.
 
I would not call that a huge chunk missing . Since it is new , I might try to get the rotor replaced under warrenty ( if I had the receipt . ) . I would take the photo to NAPA before I pulled it off .

Were the old rotors worn out or badly grooved ?

I usually buy a goo at the parts store , to put on the back of pads , when I do brakes on my wife's FWD car .

I buy the lifetime brake pads at the parts store . Never look back . Rarely buy rotors , unless some one runs the brakes until it is metal against metal .

I would not try to brake in the pads / rotors with bard stops . I just drive them as " normal " .

I do not live in the salt / rust belt . Never purchased calipers . Just lube the pins .

Have purchased wheel cylinder / wheel cylinder kit when they were leaking . ( I hate drum brakes ! )

Never purchase OEM unless it is a part that is not available after market . I know , with parts being made over seas , the after market parts are said to be iffy . But I read many OEM parts are made over seas ?

They were all made in the USA , back in the day , when I was a pup . Oh well , the time is coming when I will not be able to shade tree any more . Will need to fund a good independent mechanic . At least , I have a spare vehicle to fall back on when repairs are needed . I am blessed ! :)
 
I'm not sure why everyone is focusing on the chunk missing from the rotor. It has absolutely nothing to do with OPs brake problems.
The truck is pulling to the left while braking, means the right caliper is most likely stuck.
Squeeking can be caused by a number of things, but if one caliper is stuck, others may not work properly and cause pad overheating. Overheated and/or glazed pads usually start squealing.
 
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I'm strictly using OE rotors from now on and this just reinforces my decision.

Paid around $100 each for my Mopars from RA. Made in USA. We'll see how they last.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I'm strictly using OE rotors from now on and this just reinforces my decision.

Paid around $100 each for my Mopars from RA. Made in USA. We'll see how they last.


Hot take!

You have to dissassemble....It sounds like the classic tore the seals in the master via the two man brake bleed but a real mechanic would never make that mistake.....right? They would also know how to bleed the breaks correctly, or at least they should know how to do it.

It could be pads are not lubricated on whatever side is pulling but a real mechanic would never make that mistake.....right?

Caliper or hose could be bad but if they were fine before, they are probably ok now.

It probably needs more bleeding and pads need to be relubed. You are a victim of a flat rate mechanic!
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I'm not a GM fanboy, but for brakes stay OEM. ACDelco is the best in my experience.


Nonsense. You do not need OEM pads and rotors, get off your high horse.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not sure why everyone is focusing on the chunk missing from the rotor.


Possibly because, like me, they don't think there should be chunks missing from a new brake disk.

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
It has absolutely nothing to do with OPs brake problems.


Didn't say it did. Don't think anyone else did either.
 
Did you guys grease up the slide pins in the calipers?

I had a 96' C1500, it would pull to one side when braking too. Then I noticed the front wheels were getting really hot after driving. One day I went to move the truck and it wouldn't move, front wheels frozen. It was the master cylinder, after I replaced it all was well. No more pulling either.
 
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