Synthetic Oil for Direct injection

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My new 2018 Subaru Forester has the 2.5L N/A engine.My question is can a synthetic motor oil like Valvoline Advanced Synthetic really make a difference in a direct injection engine with or without a turbo buy cutting down on the deposits or is it marketing hype?Thanks Joe
 
I don't know about deposits but DI gas engines like I have in my VW All Track suffer from fuel dilution of the oil. The more robust syn oils may maintain adequate lubrication longer (so the story goes) than non-synthetics. I use the recommended synthetic Castrol in my VW and I change it every 5000 miles.
 
I remember one article I read, that a Korean research shows that Group 4 based stock oil has a lower tendency of valve deposit if changed more frequently.

My guess is it has to do with ash and Noack.
 
The difference is most significant with TGDI turbo DI engines, but even non-turbo GDI benefits from it, too
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The real issue is for the manufacturers to fix their direct injection problem rather than just dumping it on their customers like they have done.
 
I've been wondering about this questions as well, since I have a 2017 Sonata 2.4L that is DI.

Maybe it's not a valid assumption, but I would think that a synthetic would not fry itself onto the valve stems like dino oil would. Sort of the same reasoning that affected the Mini Cooper turbos; if you used dino oil, it coked up the bearings in the turbocharger that were fed with sump oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Joeescape63
My question is can a synthetic motor oil like Valvoline Advanced Synthetic really make a difference in a direct injection engine with or without a turbo buy cutting down on the deposits or is it marketing hype?

Cutting down on deposits??? To be determined..... But definitely yes if you believe the marketing hype.

W.R.T. LSPI, this is why API SN+ and dexos1 gen2 were created. Yes they both definitely help to prevent LSPI.
 
LSPI is for real, you should really think about using spun micro glass filters and those formulas that were created with gf-6 in mind. Low calcium and higher magnesium formulas like m1 or amsoil. M1 was ahead of the field on the issue, and I'm sure there are many other options.
 
read the part that says lubrication and lspi, look at how low calcium affects lspi.

LSPI is near non existent with low calcium oil. m1 costco deal is a great option, but Amsoil also has high moly which is an additional benefit, read the page and identify where they take about moly. M1 also has moly, just less then Amsoil. Two great choices for di turbo's.

Gf-6 is not here yet, but Amsoil and m1 both lowered their calcium for folks just like you that have a di turbo. You are smart for inquiring about it, now make sure you just don't go buying some junk off the walmart shelf that says synthetic and think you did something good for your baby. It has to be a low calcium oil, if you don't want either of the two I suggested, then do your own research and find another low calcium option.

The most important thing you want to use is a low calcium oil. Only 1 lspi event for every 25 that happens with higher calcium.

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Spun Micro Glass filters are Fram Ultra 9 bucks at Walmart, Amsoil EA, Royal Purple, and Wix XP are among the most popular. I just don't trust paper past 3 mos and with these filters there is literally nothing to worry about for years. They aren't gonna get stiff and blow a hole, I've cut my filters open for years, Royal purple filters are still soft and pliable after 2 years in use.
 
Originally Posted By: burla
LSPI is for real, you should really think about using spun micro glass filters and those formulas that were created with gf-6 in mind. Low calcium and higher magnesium formulas like m1 or amsoil. M1 was ahead of the field on the issue, and I'm sure there are many other options.




How does a spun glass filter reduce LSPI?
 
Problem with these “LSPI events” is that they tend to be catastrophic. Just one is enough. “Reducing” isn’t enough, I want to read “eliminate” instead.
 
Wow. I just run Castrol 0w40 in my ‘11 F150 EB and haven’t given it another thought. I’m at 115k miles and the only thing unusual I do for the truck is run premium. Is it too late for me to start worrying about this.....?
 
Originally Posted By: burla
There is a way to eliminate them for sure, don't buy a di turbo.


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The sad thing is 25% of all vehicles made in america will be di turbo because in the lab they are slightly more efficient then port injection, but port injection has a zero percent chance of lspi. They are trying to mitigate the issue by having hybrid di/pi engines, but bottom line if you have a di turbo there is a risk. Makes one want to consider one of those lifetime warranties.
 
Well my understanding is that LSPI happens at low rpm high load. With the ECU controlling everything, including the transmission, it looks trivial to me to program it so such condition would be avoided. No need of fancy oils or anything.

However. I bet that keeping a sane rpm / gear at all times would ruin the fuel economy they were targeting in the first place.
 
I have a cousin from New Orleans that just recently bought a 2017 Navigator, 11K miles, with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine. He told me he plans on using PYB 5W30 every 6K miles. Why? Because his wife owns a 2010 KR F150 and he runs PYB 5W30 in it. He stated that he ONLY uses Pennzoil oil and can keep the oil the same for both. I strongly suggested that if he wants to keep using Pennzoil, to use 5W30 PP in the Navi, changed at 5K miles. I also told him he REALLY needs to read the owners manual.
 
We’re buying a TGDI this year. Luckily the owner’s manual hasn’t been plundered by CAFE and it still specs a proper, robust oil... A3/B4 LL-01.
 
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