2008 Chevy 5.3 V8 Oil Q?

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2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
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You certain that it’s a lifter not a manifold leak? Ticking until warm sounds more like a manifold leak.
 
I read , in general , synthetic oil cleans better than dino oil . Based on that , I personally would use full synthetic ( what ever that means ) . Maype the Penzoil made from natural gas ?

I know nothing about MMO .
 
I recommend 5w30 w ac delco oil filter (classic or “e”) and see if that help. I think oil flow will help w the tick. Personally, I would do a 5 min idle flush on next OCI, but many people here don’t .
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
BOF,

Use that 0w-40 without the MMO. What filter are you going to use?

FRAM ULTRA.
He already has 4 of them on the shelf.
Astro14, it's a lifter. Been there, done this MEGA times.
The ONLY reason I'm asking about it on the forum is I want knowledgeable opinions on the use of the Castrol 0W40 oil. In the past, I have used A LOT of different brands of spec'd 5W30 oils with MMO to cure the problem.
What about PYB 5W30, with the MMO and/or GUNK engine flush for 20 miles? Either/or GUNK/MMO, one of these with a suggested oil by someone here, or myself, or friend, will clear/clean the lifter.
Thanks guys, for your suggestions on the oil. I'm still listening.
smile.gif
 
You can try MMO the last 500-1000 miles. I would prefer not to use GUNK. Gunk will work but a shock treatment could clog a oil passage.
 
PYB,Chevron Supreme, maybe Rotella T4 10w30 plus MMO will work well. I have no experience with Castrol 0w40.

P.S. mais, you from Lafayette??
grin.gif
 
If your looking to do a clean up maybe some HDEO like Rotella T-6 great detergent add pack and it cleans up truck engines it will work for your 5.3 L
 
I am in almost the same situation, changing the oil for a friend with a 5.3 Sierra with over 200,000 miles. He has the same lifter tick. I used a 5 qt jug of Castrol Edge 10W-30 and a quart of 15W-40 to add the 6th quart and his truck was immediately quieter. I think 0W-40 would do the same for you. I'd leave out the MMO.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You certain that it’s a lifter not a manifold leak? Ticking until warm sounds more like a manifold leak.
I would be willing to bet it’s a manifold bolt broken, the 08 I had did it. I ran all kinds of 5w30s in mine. It seemed to be the quietest on Formula Shell and Quaker State. One thing I would watch for is oil burning because the earlier 4 cyl deactivation sucked. Mine burned a lot of oil with it, didn’t matter brand or weight. I bought a programmer to turn off the 4 cyl deactivation and it burnt barely any oil running 8 cylinders full time. YMMV
 
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Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You certain that it’s a lifter not a manifold leak? Ticking until warm sounds more like a manifold leak.
I would be willing to bet it’s a manifold bolt broken, the 08 I had did it. I ran all kinds of 5w30s in mine. It seemed to be the quietest on Formula Shell and Quaker State.

IT'S NOT A BROKEN/LEAKING EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND/OR BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
smile.gif

Samrsnow, you're a genius! Why didn't I think about ROTELLA? That's what we're going to use, with 32 oz. of MMO, and a FU filter.
Lafayette, hein? Je suis a la paroisse d'Avoyelles, presque a cote de chez vous. Je lisais dans les nouvelles ce matin sur l'etat de fermeture de LAFEYETTE GENERAL. Ca va faire BEAUCOUP de gens qui travaillent.
Que diriez-vous de RAGIN CAJUNS? Ils ont certainement le numero de LSU.
Comment vous etes sur les langoustes la-bas? Ici, 1,75 $ en direct, 2,75 $ bouilli.
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You certain that it’s a lifter not a manifold leak? Ticking until warm sounds more like a manifold leak.
I would be willing to bet it’s a manifold bolt broken, the 08 I had did it. I ran all kinds of 5w30s in mine. It seemed to be the quietest on Formula Shell and Quaker State. One thing I would watch for is oil burning because the earlier 4 cyl deactivation sucked. Mine burned a lot of oil with it, didn’t matter brand or weight. I bought a programmer to turn off the 4 cyl deactivation and it burnt barely any oil running 8 cylinders full time. YMMV

CB, isn't that ironic? He's currently running FORMULA SHELL 5W30 with a FU filter.
But, the latter info., I will inform him about it.
Thanks for the update! BTW, are you a Chevrolet tech.?
 
Originally Posted By: Nitronoise
If your looking to do a clean up maybe some HDEO like Rotella T-6 great detergent add pack and it cleans up truck engines it will work for your 5.3 L

NN, I'm sorry I didn't see you recommended ROTELLA as well. That's why I came here to ask about the oil. No matter how well you think you can fix something that is as easy as this is, there is ALWAYS something you overlook that's so simple. NEVER think you can do EVERYTHING on your own. Somewhere down the line you WILL need help!
And, a big THANK YOU to all of the rest that contributed.
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
What about PYB 5W30, with the MMO and/or GUNK engine flush for 20 miles? Either/or GUNK/MMO, one of these with a suggested oil by someone here, or myself, or friend, will clear/clean the lifter.


Only idle it for 15 mins or what the directions say. NEVER drive it with engine flush in the engine unless you want some knocking noises or if he wants a new truck.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
What about PYB 5W30, with the MMO and/or GUNK engine flush for 20 miles? Either/or GUNK/MMO, one of these with a suggested oil by someone here, or myself, or friend, will clear/clean the lifter.


Only idle it for 15 mins or what the directions say. NEVER drive it with engine flush in the engine unless you want some knocking noises or if he wants a new truck.

Thank you SS. I'm not very familiar with GUNK and driving. I have used it twice, with great results both times. But, both times WERE idling.
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
21.gif



I had the same ticking issue. Changed oring at the oil pump pickup tube. Problem solved.
 
Originally Posted By: BigJakeChevy
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
21.gif



I had the same ticking issue. Changed oring at the oil pump pickup tube. Problem solved.

BJC, thank you for this recommendation. After I did some research on your response, a split o-ring is the problem.
I knew a lifter was ticking, but what I DIDN'T know is the oil pressure gauge was only reading about 5 psi. My friend never told me this, and I had never physically looked at the gauge. I talked to a Chevy tech. that I know in Tampa, FL. at FERMAN CHEVROLET, and he gave me some advice as how to fix it. He stated that upon initial engine assembly, the Chevy engine plant worker would accidentally nick the o-ring upon installing the pick up tube. As time goes by, the nick eventually splits the o-ring and causes lack of oil pressure.
Tools required;
Hemostats, thin wire 6" long, shop rag soaked with Vaseline, magnet, Dremel, and new 0-ring.
We will cut the notch holding the pick up tube retaining ring, spin it 180*, and use the bolt hole opposite of the factory bolt hole upon assembly. This technique will save us from dropping the pan and the WHOLE front axle!
Sounds easy enough, right? I will mostly be supervising. If I get caught doing ANY physical labor, my SSDI, Medicare, and other benefits CAN/WILL be stripped!
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: BigJakeChevy
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
2008 Chevy Silverado LTZ/Z71 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3 V8, 4X4, 170K Miles
This is my friends truck. He helps my cousin and I do the charity OCI's. He drives this truck to work and back, 208 miles round trip, 5 days a week. He bought it used with 150K miles on it. The front end was totaled and he bought it from a State Farm insurance auction. He is an excellent paint and body tech. and rebuilt the whole front end, painted it, and had it back on the road in less than 3 months. The truck is beautiful and looks as if it were never wrecked.
Just recently the engine started making a ticking sound from start up to operating temperature. He and I both know it's a lifter, but he don't want to go into the engine JUST YET. I am trying to help him figure this out without having to start pulling the valve covers, etc.
What I was wanting to do was start with the oil and filter. I have 6 qts. of Castrol 0W40 oil that I was going to use on my next OCI, but was going to ask here if this oil, along with a 32 oz. bottle of MMO, would be a good starting point. In the past, I have used all kinds of weights of oil along with MMO to fix this kind of problem with these engines. I think there's a little debris in one of the lifters and just want to know if the Castrol 0W40 oil would be a good candidate in this engine, even though it's spec'd 5W30? Opinions please?
21.gif



I had the same ticking issue. Changed oring at the oil pump pickup tube. Problem solved.

BJC, thank you for this recommendation. After I did some research on your response, a split o-ring is the problem.
I knew a lifter was ticking, but what I DIDN'T know is the oil pressure gauge was only reading about 5 psi. My friend never told me this, and I had never physically looked at the gauge. I talked to a Chevy tech. that I know in Tampa, FL. at FERMAN CHEVROLET, and he gave me some advice as how to fix it. He stated that upon initial engine assembly, the Chevy engine plant worker would accidentally nick the o-ring upon installing the pick up tube. As time goes by, the nick eventually splits the o-ring and causes lack of oil pressure.
Tools required;
Hemostats, thin wire 6" long, shop rag soaked with Vaseline, magnet, Dremel, and new 0-ring.
We will cut the notch holding the pick up tube retaining ring, spin it 180*, and use the bolt hole opposite of the factory bolt hole upon assembly. This technique will save us from dropping the pan and the WHOLE front axle!
Sounds easy enough, right? I will mostly be supervising. If I get caught doing ANY physical labor, my SSDI, Medicare, and other benefits CAN/WILL be stripped!


Personally i took my front diff out. It wasn’t that bad imo. I didn’t like the idea of cutting and grinding metal that with drop into the oil pan. Im glad i took my oil pan off as i was able to clean it. Glad you found your problem, nice to save an engine!
 
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