5W-40 Synthetic for OPE

Joined
Jul 30, 2015
Messages
1,464
Location
Pennsylvania
I've been slowly coming to the conclusion that a good synthetic 5W-40 HDEO might be the universal OPE oil here in Pennsylvania. This is based upon a number of things, including the current B&S recommendations that include both synthetic 5W-30 and 15W-50; it seems to me that 5W-40 lands within that range. I have a number of Honda and Chonda powered machines calling for 5W-30 synthetic.

That being said, the extreme temperatures here range from -4 to + 102 F. Normal temperatures range from about +15 to +95 F. The only machine in my OPE fleet that would ever be called upon to run at or near either extreme is the portable generator. I want that machine to start easily and run at the extremes. None of my OPE would ever start with an oil temp below +25 F. The snow blower might run for an hour or more at +5 F, but it will start at or above +25 F. Somehow I doubt that a 5W-40 is going to do the snow blower any harm. None of the other OPE is likely to run above +90 F ambient.

So what are your thoughts? Is this reasonable? Could I run Rotella T6 or Chevron Delo 400 XSP 5W-40 in the entire OPE fleet and sleep easy?
 
That sounds reasonable but why not just run a cheaper PCMO 10w-30 synthetic? A 10w-30 synthetic will still be thinner than a 5w-40 synthetic at colder temps. I personally run M1 0w-40 currently due a AZ clearance 2 years ago.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: volk06
That sounds reasonable but why not just run a cheaper PCMO 10w-30 synthetic? A 10w-30 synthetic will still be thinner than a 5w-40 synthetic at colder temps. I personally run M1 0w-40 currently due a AZ clearance 2 years ago.

I do that now with several machines; 5w-40 seems to be a good all around compromise and will hopefully protect the engine better in extended high temperature operation. Presently MY OPE has 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, and 15W-40. Life was simpler when they all took SAE 30, but methinks life is better now. Standardizing one one good oil available in 4 or 5 quart jugs would be great.

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
No question. The HDEO 15W-40 synthetic blends would also serve you well, methinks.

Probably, but it's a lot harder to pull the starter cord in cold temperatures. I've got a leaf vacuum that would be difficult starting with SAE 30, but a joy to start with %W-40. Should the need arise, I'd like others to be able to start these machines easily.
Originally Posted By: Zee09
Many shops around here use T6 5w40 too for ope

Glad to hear it!
 
I use T6 5W40 for everything but our cars. Seems to work fine. I guess my 2001 300 king quad has around 2000hrs on it now, with quite a few plowing our 1/4 mile driveway, or pulling 1000lbs of wood and trailer around, and seems to have as much power as I remember it had new.
 
I am a huge proponent of 40 weight oils (here). BUT. For the snow blower, those things stay pretty cool, with the engine fan blowing 5 to 15 degree air on them.

5W30 is more than enough for the snow blowers, in my opinion.

But yes, 5W40 (and 0W40 and 15W40) are excellent, universal choices for most power equipment.
 
I’m a big fan of 40 weight because 40 is 10 more than 30. It makes no difference. If you read your owners manuals most OPE manufacturers don’t suggest 40 weight until temperatures are above 100 F. If you are out there cutting your grass at above 100 F , knock yourself out. And don’t blame CAFE for the OPE manufacturers for choosing 30 weight. Bitog on!
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
That sounds reasonable but why not just run a cheaper PCMO 10w-30 synthetic?


I run my lawn tractor about 2 hours at a time, two or three times a week (multi properties). Maybe I am just old school but I like more ZDDP in my air cooled OPE engines given their higher running temperatures compared to water cooled engines using PCMO oil. See new Briggs 15w50 oil VOE here... good ZDDP levels like most HDEO oils. HDEO oil are not necessarily more expensive than PCMO oils.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...nguard_S#UNREAD
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
That sounds reasonable but why not just run a cheaper PCMO 10w-30 synthetic? A 10w-30 synthetic will still be thinner than a 5w-40 synthetic at colder temps. I personally run M1 0w-40 currently due a AZ clearance 2 years ago.


So how does a 5W become thicker than a 10W at"colder temps" ...
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: volk06
That sounds reasonable but why not just run a cheaper PCMO 10w-30 synthetic? A 10w-30 synthetic will still be thinner than a 5w-40 synthetic at colder temps. I personally run M1 0w-40 currently due a AZ clearance 2 years ago.


So how does a 5W become thicker than a 10W at"colder temps" ...


Its been discussed on here indepth before, it has to do with the HTHS, the different base stocks and different specifications/viscosity range requirements for each weight, idr off the top of my head.

For instance,

Look at the viscosities of Delvac 5w-40, M1 0w-40 and M1 10w-30.

Delvac 5w-40
40C - 84
100C - 13.8
HTHS - 3.8

M1 0w-40
40C - 70.8
100C - 12.9
HTHS - 3.6

M1 10w-30
40C - 63.2
100C - 10.1
HTHS - 3.0

I can't readily find the MRV numbers for the regular M1 oils.

As you can see, the 10w-30 is the thinnest than either 40 weight oils, even though it is a 10w-30. Its not usually until extreme negative temperatures, the difference might be seen.
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
I’m a big fan of 40 weight because 40 is 10 more than 30. It makes no difference. If you read your owners manuals most OPE manufacturers don’t suggest 40 weight until temperatures are above 100 F. If you are out there cutting your grass at above 100 F , knock yourself out. And don’t blame CAFE for the OPE manufacturers for choosing 30 weight. Bitog on!


Oh, look the person from the great white frozen north doesn't understand the use of 40 weight oils. LMAO. It was 94 degrees here yesterday. And will be 94 degrees and up for the next six months straight. Sure, I'm sure it gets that hot where you live (for 5 days a year)

Dude I ran a small engine shop. I have done thousands of oil changes on small engines in south Florida. 30 weight is marginal for commercial use or long time use (pumps, generators, pressure washers, commercial mowers) down here. If you are running 30 weight in a generator, in Florida, you are out of your mind.

Just open a Kawasaki manual. Or a Briggs manual. And you'll find plenty of 40 weight and 50 weight recommendations for high temps.
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
If you read your owners manuals most OPE manufacturers don’t suggest 40 weight until temperatures are above 100 F.


Actually Briggs and Stratton recommend 15w50 for anything above 20 F. My thoughts were to split the difference between the two right hand recommendations below.

Oil_rec_chart_smaller.jpg
 
I've used both Rotella 5w40 and 10w30 with good results in year round and summer equipment. I use conventional 5w30 in snowblowers.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
I’m a big fan of 40 weight because 40 is 10 more than 30. It makes no difference. If you read your owners manuals most OPE manufacturers don’t suggest 40 weight until temperatures are above 100 F. If you are out there cutting your grass at above 100 F , knock yourself out. And don’t blame CAFE for the OPE manufacturers for choosing 30 weight. Bitog on!


Oh, look the person from the great white frozen north doesn't understand the use of 40 weight oils. LMAO. It was 94 degrees here yesterday. And will be 94 degrees and up for the next six months straight. Sure, I'm sure it gets that hot where you live (for 5 days a year)

Dude I ran a small engine shop. I have done thousands of oil changes on small engines in south Florida. 30 weight is marginal for commercial use or long time use (pumps, generators, pressure washers, commercial mowers) down here. If you are running 30 weight in a generator, in Florida, you are out of your mind.

Just open a Kawasaki manual. Or a Briggs manual. And you'll find plenty of 40 weight and 50 weight recommendations for high temps.


Haha. It’s Bubba again. Post again when it’s 100F. Not 94. Believe it or not 100F is quite rare in South Florida.
 
I go back and forth, and we discuss it on this forum a lot I know, but for the last few years I've used nothing but HDEO oil. I either have in all my tractors and other OPE, water cooled or not, 5W40 or 15W40, depending on my mood at the time. Over the years we've poured over UOAs and VOAs of all kinds of oil and B&S, Kohler and Kawa oil looks awfully similar to HDEO. I even think MC oil looks close, but have some concerns with Jaso MA/MA2, friction modifiers, but I'm not expert enough to make that call, so I'll stick with HDEO. The only thing I do keep up with is ZDDP levels, and I'm smart enough to know there's other ways to skin that cat and not every 800ppm oil is bad, but since JD, B&S, Kohers etc. all have higher levels of ZDDP, I feel comfortable with the ~1200ppm in CJ4 HDEO. I wish I understood the newer CK spec oils to know if they have other additives that are equivalent to the ZDDP in older formulations. But in the end, i expect it's really of little concern, your motor won't just blow up.

I think we all, me included, get to over thinking this thing, and worry way to much, but a good, HDEO, changed regularly, will protect you OPE for a long, long time. This is just not missile biology, it's pretty basic stuff.
 
Back
Top