Honest Amsoil Question

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I just met a local Amsoil distributor that works about 10 minutes from me. Seems like a pretty good fella and priced some Amsoil motor oil for me. I'd run it in the Tundra in my signature. I do not tow anything over 5 or 6k, so I know I'm not stressing it and I don't put over 7k miles per year on the truck. Guess I would be changing the oil yearly. Would Amsoil be worth it over Pennzoil PLatinum or Mobil 1?

I need to change the fluids in my differentials and transfer case, so I plan to get the Amsoil gear oil.
 
Depends. One oil change a year won't break the bank using Amsoil for the quality you get. You can blow much more money other ways like eating out a lot.
If it gives you peace of mind go for it.
 
I think the gear oil is unbeatable. Cheaper than anything I can find locally, and great quality.

For your Tundra, which AMSOIL engine oil are you considering?

For relatively low mileage, I would think the OE (priced at $5.35/quart for preferred) would be a reasonable choice. The XL is $6.80 and at your change interval, I don't see the need for the Signature.

One of the issues that I've faced with an 8 quart sump is that I've got to buy a jug plus 3 quarts, which eliminates the jug savings, for the most part. I've only got 20,000 miles on my Tundra, but the engine uses no oil between changes. So, I don't need top off oil, or I would buy two jugs...

I just bought 8 quarts of the XL for my Tundra, and it's about the same as two jugs of any other synthetic (free shipping, too, if you order over $100), perhaps less if you consider that I'm not driving to get it.

I should add that I use the Toyota filter, which includes the odd cartridge drain fitting and new o-rings. It's about $5 at the dealer.

I also really like the AMSOIL firearms cleaner. Does a good job, and leaves a bit of oil behind for rust protection.

And I use the air tool oil.

And the metal protector, that stuff is great.
 
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I use Valvoline Synthetic in cars I like, and Amsoil in cars I love. You must love the Tundra.
 
Originally Posted By: 69Torino
I use Valvoline Synthetic in cars I like, and Amsoil in cars I love. You must love the Tundra.


It's love for me!

Second new vehicle in 34 years of car ownership. And I bought exactly what I wanted this time....
 
You're maybe talking about a difference of $20 an oil change? $20 a year isn't all that much to spend, especially if you feel better about running Amsoil.
 
I would just go with Mobil 1 or Pennzoil. I can not imagine you gaining anything with their motor oil....transmission and differential is a different story.
 
Originally Posted By: CARJ
You're maybe talking about a difference of $20 an oil change? $20 a year isn't all that much to spend, especially if you feel better about running Amsoil.


I think we're talking much less than that...for me, 8 quarts of AMSOIL in the Tundra is the same, perhaps less, cost as driving to Walmart and buying 1 jug plus 3 quarts, or two jugs, of something else.

If it were a 5 quart sump, then the math is slightly different because it's just one jug, and no single quarts (that cost much more per quart than the jug price) and in that case, yes, I can get oil pretty cheaply at Walmart.

But I don't like going to Walmart, and would rather save both the time and the cost of the drive, and spend that bit of $$ on the oil itself.
 
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real answer.

You could run Supertech synthetic or Castrol Magnetec (low cost but good oil) in it for the next 20 years and there would no noticeable difference in reliability or performance.

Amsoil is really good oil but not needed for this application it is not needed. Regular properly rated oil is more than enough for your application.
 
Look, before this goes on for too long, the long and short of it is that you don't need some razzle dazzle, high priced, micro nano opto intelligent molecule hyper oil, now with extra razzle be-dazzle (Brought to you by Snoop Dogg).


Even though Snoop is actually really funny with Martha Stewart on their cooking show (look it up).

You just don't.
Really.

Buy something that meets OEM spec, change it on a regular basis, save some dough, and go wax that thing.
 
Originally Posted By: Imp4
Look, before this goes on for too long, the long and short of it is that you don't need some razzle dazzle, high priced, micro nano opto intelligent molecule hyper oil, now with extra razzle be-dazzle

You just don't.
Really.

Buy something that meets OEM spec, change it on a regular basis, save some dough, and go wax that thing.
Brought to you by the guy who has never used Amsoil?
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I think the gear oil is unbeatable. Cheaper than anything I can find locally, and great quality.

For your Tundra, which AMSOIL engine oil are you considering?

For relatively low mileage, I would think the OE (priced at $5.35/quart for preferred) would be a reasonable choice. The XL is $6.80 and at your change interval, I don't see the need for the Signature.

One of the issues that I've faced with an 8 quart sump is that I've got to buy a jug plus 3 quarts, which eliminates the jug savings, for the most part. I've only got 20,000 miles on my Tundra, but the engine uses no oil between changes. So, I don't need top off oil, or I would buy two jugs...

I just bought 8 quarts of the XL for my Tundra, and it's about the same as two jugs of any other synthetic (free shipping, too, if you order over $100), perhaps less if you consider that I'm not driving to get it.

I should add that I use the Toyota filter, which includes the odd cartridge drain fitting and new o-rings. It's about $5 at the dealer.

I also really like the AMSOIL firearms cleaner. Does a good job, and leaves a bit of oil behind for rust protection.

And I use the air tool oil.

And the metal protector, that stuff is great.


Pretty much my thoughts on the Signature Series. The distributor actually recommended the XL series....kind of surprised me. On a side note, does 8 quarts fill your sump? At an even 8 quarts, the level is about half way between the dots on the dipstick.
 
Originally Posted By: Imp4
Look, before this goes on for too long, the long and short of it is that you don't need some razzle dazzle, high priced, micro nano opto intelligent molecule hyper oil, now with extra razzle be-dazzle (Brought to you by Snoop Dogg).


Even though Snoop is actually really funny with Martha Stewart on their cooking show (look it up).

You just don't.
Really.

Buy something that meets OEM spec, change it on a regular basis, save some dough, and go wax that thing.





Isn’t this the second or third time you’ve posted this line? Some might call that Spam.
 
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
real answer.

You could run Supertech synthetic or Castrol Magnetec (low cost but good oil) in it for the next 20 years and there would no noticeable difference in reliability or performance.

Amsoil is really good oil but not needed for this application it is not needed. Regular properly rated oil is more than enough for your application.


You are probably correct. However, an extra $20-$25 a year ain't gonna break me.
 
in reality anything but Amsoil's best is a group III fake synthetic like Mobil I or Pennzoil + who knows what base oils are in their "best" these days as they only note blending to a spec + answer NO questions!! save your $$$ + get a fake synthetic of choice for about $5 a qt in 5 qt containers, skip the quarts as any leftover will work next year!!
 
You have to consider the business economics of a Pennzoil/Mobil/Castrol/Valvoline oil vs. Amasoil. For example, both could produce an oil of identical quality, however, it would cost the big 4 I mentioned say $2 per quart and Amsoil $4 per quart, because (1) the big names do exponentially more volume and (2) most of them actually make the base oil, so there’s vertical integration going on, while Amsoil is having to purchase everything outright in relatively low volumes.

In short, a more expensive oil from Amsoil does not mean it’s better, just means it cost Amsoil a lot more to make.
 
I would run AmsOil Signature and do a UOA at one year. If it comes back good, continue to run it. We have board members that have over 70,000 miles on AmsOil with annual UOA's and top-up's when they change the filters (they are also running by-pass filtering).

The point being that the oil can go a long way. It's all about the quality of the motor and the filtration system. Once you start down this path, I see no reason to just change it annually for giggles. You still have no idea what is really going on ... You need data points to make real informed decisions.

However, if this is under warranty, I would not go down this path. I'd prolly just run PUP or one of the better M1's and call it good. Keep track of the changes and write each down in the back of the owners manual to show that you did them. Date, mileage and initial is good enough in any dispute
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Isn’t this the second or third time you’ve posted this line? Some might call that Spam.

That's very observant of you.
I only post it when it is applicable, timely, and accurate.

Which seems to be a little too often for some tastes.

Maybe I should boil it down to:
-Owners manual
-API donut
-Wax that thing

Please prove me wrong.

Not spammy, just correct!
 
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It is funny how Amsoil in the subject triggers hot discussions hahaha. So much hate for the oil
 
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