Alignment needed after front suspension work?

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I'm replacing the following front suspension components on a 2002 Mazda tribute: Control arms (with new ball joint and bushings), sway bar end-links, both strut assemblies (quick struts which includes the mount, bump stops, springs, etc.) and outer tie rod ends.

I'm in the process of putting it back together and noticed that there is no bolt on the strut assembly that sets camber-- my 1996 Maxima had an oblong bolt which a tab that once you removed the strut, you had to get an alignment to get camber corrected. The two bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle on this 2002 Tribute are simple through-bolts with no indication that they set camber at all. Is the camber a fixed value on this vehicle? If so, can I get away with just setting toe? I realize replacing the outer tie rod ends will certainly require the toe to be set properly, but I can do that myself.

Camber and caster are the ones I just prefer to send to the shop and have them do it on a machine. But if this is a fixed suspension where camber/caster is non-adjustable, I'd like to just set toe and call it a day-- the alignment was perfect before this work, it was just that the bushings and end-links were wore out and the vehicle would clunk at low speeds when hitting small bumps. I prefer to replace everything while I'm down there since the parts are cheap and this is a 190k mile vehicle.

Any input/info on the subject would be much appreciated!
 
No guarantee that the new components are 100% true compared to the previous ones.. lengths could be off by a millimeter or two, etc.. so I'd take it to a shop when you're done to have them line all the new stuff up. Don't want to end up with all your hard work for naught in the end.. incorrect alignment will just wear it all out faster.
 
The answer to your question depends on how much you value your tires.

If you decide to align it, I recommend the shops that align Peterbilts and Freightliners.
 
Originally Posted By: das_peikko
The answer to your question depends on how much you value your tires.

If you decide to align it, I recommend the shops that align Peterbilts and Freightliners.

Passenger vehicles have nothing in common with class 8 trucks...disregard this advice OP. The alignment equipment is different. If the shop does light duty also then go ahead.
 
+4 Get the vehicle aligned as soon as its done, its probably going to be way out. You must have the camber/caster checked to make sure the control arms and struts are in spec. There is usually a way of minor correcting it if they are not, filing, camber bolts, etc.
 
You might also be able to set camber at the top of struts mounts though the through-bolt is more effective. Ask your alignment shop BEFORE YOU COMMIT if they'll grind these holes out, or order cam bolts, and if it costs extra. Bad shops (most of them) will say it's not adjustable and you're out of luck.
 
Originally Posted By: LotI
Passenger vehicles have nothing in common with class 8 trucks...disregard this advice OP. The alignment equipment is different. If the shop does light duty also then go ahead.


You're missing the entire point. Let me spell it out to you: The guys that work on heavy duty trucks at Frame & Wheel shops are the best mechanics. The guys that work at tire shop chains are the worst mechanics.
 
I'm not taking it to a heavy duty truck place-- I don't want to waste their time and that would be terribly inconvenient finding one that would take a small unibody SUV. I will take your guys' advise and have it aligned, especially since the car has fairly new tires. I can certainly see how parts might not be identical, and how minute the alignment specs are. While I do agree that most chain stores with alignment racks have poor/low skill mechanics, that wasn't my question. I have a good mechanic with the right equipment that I trust.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
You need spell check.


I do have spell check and nothing was red underlined.
confused2.gif


Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2
I'm not taking it to a heavy duty truck place-- I don't want to waste their time and that would be terribly inconvenient finding one that would take a small unibody SUV.


Suit yourself but you're missing out on the best alignments. I take my car to a Frame & Wheel shop all the time. They think it's cake for them to work on a passenger car for a change. They think nothing of it.
 
Originally Posted By: das_peikko
Let me spell it out to you: The guys that work on heavy duty trucks at Frame & Wheel shops are the best mechanics. The guys that work at tire shop chains are the worst mechanics.


You cant paint it with that broad a brush. I know almost every place in the area and know where to get the best job and the best guy to do it, none of them are truck places and none are tire stores.

One place is a body shop with a good frame and alignment machine and a highly skilled guy doing the work, the other is an old geezer with his own shop at the house (a nice one too), he does fantastic work and always has exotics waiting to get done.
I use him after a sub frame pull and initial suspension fitting just to make sure its going to be okay before installing panels.
 
Good call guys, I took the vehicle in for an alignment and the toe was out of spec-- not a huge amount (like 0.6 degrees total toe IIRC), but it's clear the new parts didn't match up exactly the same as the old.

My suspicion was correct about the camber/caster-- the shop told me it is non-adjustable but that they can work some magic (shims and things) if they absolutely have to adjust it to get it within spec. It was good before, just the toe was out. I feel better that the future owner of this car will get the most out of the new tires I bought last year.

The alignment shop I took it to was "Tony's front end and alignment." It's a shop dedicated to alignment and collision repairs (frame straightening and stuff.) Charged me $55 for the front-end alignment, which is a better price than I'd pay at a chain store.
 
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