5w30 conventional in push mower?

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I know that splash lubricated push mowers will run fine in just about any oily substance you put in the crank case. I have some Peak brand 5w30 conventional SN oil leftover. I’m assuming it’ll be fine? Oil gets changed yearly. This is for a couple of Briggs 7hp engines and one Honda GCX160.
 
Search the word “lawn”. There were several discussions this spring.
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https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html

SAE 30- Warmer temperatures, most common oil for small engines.
•SAE 10W-30- Varying temperature range, this grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption.
•Synthetic SAE 5W-30- Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
•SAE 5W-30- Very cold temperatures.
•Vanguard 15W-50- Varying temperature range. For continuous-use, such as commercial lawn cutting or pressure washing.
 
When I was a kid, I accidentally filled a 3 HP Briggs with I-H "Hy-Tran" fluid.

That mower ran for another 15 years....

You will be just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
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Ok, time for the high viscosity folks:


Well … in my vehicles I’m running 2 on 20’s and two on 40’s … (no 30) driver seat dyno says 40’s all good

But I have tried my 19 HP lawn tractor on 15w40 and it just plain runs better on 10w30 … it will not idle down on the thicker oil … sounds strange … but hey 1-1/2 quarts? Drained it out and put my $1 quart Delo in … back to normal
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
I know that splash lubricated push mowers will run fine in just about any oily substance you put in the crank case.


You are correct so go for it. All my 4 stroke engine equipment get what ever oil left over 0w20 to 20w50 or a mix of any of these. Never had an engine fail or exhibit excessive oil use. Equipment end of service always because of other component failure.
 
After I've seen what Project Farm (YouTube) runs some of those engines on (including water... yes)....

All you have to do is use something that's labelled as "motor oil" and keep it full.
 
If you have the Peak laying around, use it.
The mower really couldn't care less, as long as it has oil.
It should be checked on a regular basis anyway.
 
Keep an eye on the level, but oils gotten better today that it may not take little to no top off.
 
You do that kind of stuff when you are a kid. I took 2 old mowers that were way older than me and swapped all of the best looking parts to one mower. I got it running and started spraying it with starting fluid like it was nitrous until the motor locked up. That is when I realized I didn't put any oil back in it. I was around 10 at the time.
 
I prefer 10w-30 HDEO for mowers, however, I have successfully ran my toro recycler with the toro engine 3 seasons on 0w-30 M1 AFE with no noticeable oil usage. It was much easier to pull start to! That was the whole purpose, so the wife could start it herself.
 
Originally Posted By: GravelRoad
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html

SAE 30- Warmer temperatures, most common oil for small engines.
•SAE 10W-30- Varying temperature range, this grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption.
•Synthetic SAE 5W-30- Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
•SAE 5W-30- Very cold temperatures.
•Vanguard 15W-50- Varying temperature range. For continuous-use, such as commercial lawn cutting or pressure washing.



This doesn't make sense to me. Why would it matter if the 5w30 is synthetic or not? It's still a 30 at running temperature, so it should be good up to 100 like the others.
 
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