2014 Ducati Monster 1200S - Motorex TopSpeed 10w40

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My first UOA and post here. I bout this used with 3000 miles, changed oil to Motorex Top Speed 10w40 and then to Mobil1 MX 4T after 3200 miles. Looks like I can try 4500 for next OCI.
 
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But hey, Blackstone said “ The slightly thin viscosity is harmless”
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I switched to Mobil1 which is supposed have a better based stock. TopSpeed is a group III and the oil looked pretty good when I changed it. Going to stretch it to 4500 this time. I use a K&N oil filter with neo magnets. I'm not worried about the shear, I wont run a 50wt even in Florida. People run heavy oils because the "if two aspirins is good 3 are better" syndrome. This is a water cooled bike and I do run it pretty hard at times, my previous monster was air-cooled, I ran 50wt in that.
 
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Thanks for posting, pass on the exotic oils, think you will see way better results with the Mobile 1 you just chose, or any other regular oils like Valvoline or Castrol.

Looking forward to the next UOA.
 
I assume this Monster is a liquid cooled model? Not one of the older air cooled?

There are not many oils that stay in the grade in a shared sump engine especially a model like this with V twin torque pulses crunching the oil between gears in the transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: frankge
I switched to Mobil1 which is supposed have a better based stock. TopSpeed is a group III and the oil looked pretty good when I changed it. Going to stretch it to 4500 this time. I use a K&N oil filter with neo magnets. I'm not worried about the shear, I wont run a 50wt even in Florida. People run heavy oils because the "if two aspirins is good 3 are better" syndrome. This is a water cooled bike and I do run it pretty hard at times, my previous monster was air-cooled, I ran 50wt in that.


Tops speed is a groupIII, and you belive mobil1 is a group Iv?

One key note, Mobil1 mc oils, used to have a lot higher flash points years ago, the base oil aint the same.

As to your 50 weight comment, add 1 quart of 50 weight in your favorite 10w40 brands, and you'll have a better chance of holding 40 weight.
 
Looks OK, thanks.
Iron and Aluminium a bit high, I reckon its to do with the bike per se.
 
Originally Posted By: frankge
I switched to Mobil1 which is supposed have a better based stock. TopSpeed is a group III and the oil looked pretty good when I changed it. Going to stretch it to 4500 this time. I use a K&N oil filter with neo magnets. I'm not worried about the shear, I wont run a 50wt even in Florida. People run heavy oils because the "if two aspirins is good 3 are better" syndrome. This is a water cooled bike and I do run it pretty hard at times, my previous monster was air-cooled, I ran 50wt in that.


DOH!!! I see this is the liquid cooled Monster, my bad for asking that question when I should have been paying full attention.

Mobil 1 4T 10w40 had a huge dose of zinc/phosphorus (1750/1600 ppm) up until March 2017 when I noticed a change. It shows a significant drop in zinc/phosphorus for this oil (1200/1100 ppm). This continues to show in the most recent Feb 2018 update (link below).

Link: scroll to page 4. https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

M1 20w50 V-Twin continues to have the higher zinc/phosphorus content, however is a heavier wt than you say you want to run.

I am not sure how zinc and phosphorus are valued in a Ducati valvetrain using desmodromic direct actuation, however a heavier oil with higher zinc and phosphorus in my bikes in a warmer climate isn’t anything I would shy away from, IMO.
 
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my friend + former ducati dealer + savy tech noted ducati radiators could be bigger for their power levels but in the interest of small + light they are not! he also noticed the change in Mobil I oils from years past when they WERE all PAO + prolly a bit of Ester, but like most Amsoil included the oils use cheaper group III base oils to compete + take advantage of the ruling allowing group III refined CRUDE oils advertised + sold as "synthetic"!!
 
I do not consider Mobil1 a group IV base, just a good oil that's recommended and not as expensive (necessary) as the boutique oils. Its not a money thing as I don't ride this like a commuter and would spend $15/qt if there was a significant advantage. I might consider mixing the 40 and 50 if the next test proves its necessary. I do run this pretty hard time to time but overall I'm a little older now and "less" of a punk on the bike
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