Personally I wouldn't... way too messy. I would either dump them into something requiring gear oil, but not critical OR dispose of appropriately. I only deal with o-ring chains, so my fav lately is Dupont Multi-Use lube that comes in a squirt bottle. Sprays are faster, but I hate the overspray. I apply 1 drop on each o-ring/side-plate... takes a couple of minutes and I do it once every few hundred miles.
Gear Oil As Chain Lube
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Conditions are dirt bikes, such as my cr 125, cr250, yz250f, etc and riding in the woods, or racing hare scrambles in the woods.
So for years I used messy chain lubes religiously. Then I realized I am lubing nothing. My sealed oring chain is not getting any lubricant to the rollers, unless the chain oring is no longer sealing. If that is the case your chain is soon to be replaced if you are a serious rider and lube is of no help. The only thing lube does is attract dirt, sand, dust, grit, etc.
I found the best is to wash after every ride, no pressure washer here people unless you want failed orings or to push dirt passed the rings. after drying with a leaf blower, wd-40 the chain while spinning the rear tire. WD will not allow rust, repels any left water, keeps the chain in great shape, and will not attract anything like dirt or mud to cause wear next ride.
I saw all my buddies constantly replacing chains, because they would not listen and used lube. No thanks. If anything, and you feel you need sprocket to chain lube, which you dont, you could use a dry graphite spray. But no need. At least it wont hold the dirt though. Lube is good, just not on my oring chain.
So for years I used messy chain lubes religiously. Then I realized I am lubing nothing. My sealed oring chain is not getting any lubricant to the rollers, unless the chain oring is no longer sealing. If that is the case your chain is soon to be replaced if you are a serious rider and lube is of no help. The only thing lube does is attract dirt, sand, dust, grit, etc.
I found the best is to wash after every ride, no pressure washer here people unless you want failed orings or to push dirt passed the rings. after drying with a leaf blower, wd-40 the chain while spinning the rear tire. WD will not allow rust, repels any left water, keeps the chain in great shape, and will not attract anything like dirt or mud to cause wear next ride.
I saw all my buddies constantly replacing chains, because they would not listen and used lube. No thanks. If anything, and you feel you need sprocket to chain lube, which you dont, you could use a dry graphite spray. But no need. At least it wont hold the dirt though. Lube is good, just not on my oring chain.
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
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Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: weasley
High molecular weight PIBs are common tackifiers.
Do you know of any off the shelf products that have HMW PIB ?
Enquiring minds would like to know.
Or can we dissolve a pencil eraser in oil...and how ?
Not aware of a consumer source of such PIBs. Paratac is a brand name of a common one, others exist but not sure you'll be able to source any.
I thought erasers were largely synthetic rubber compounds, like PVC or butyl rubber?
Originally Posted By: weasley
High molecular weight PIBs are common tackifiers.
Do you know of any off the shelf products that have HMW PIB ?
Enquiring minds would like to know.
Or can we dissolve a pencil eraser in oil...and how ?
Not aware of a consumer source of such PIBs. Paratac is a brand name of a common one, others exist but not sure you'll be able to source any.
I thought erasers were largely synthetic rubber compounds, like PVC or butyl rubber?
Avoid gear oil if you use o-ring chains. (unless you specifically research it first, I havent/dont have a chain)
Some gear oils will damage seals/o-rings etc.
Some gear oils will damage seals/o-rings etc.
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Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
I keep wondering if I needed to lube an o-ring chain. I feel like the only benefit is the roller-to-sprocket surfaces.
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
I keep wondering if I needed to lube an o-ring chain. I feel like the only benefit is the roller-to-sprocket surfaces.
Originally Posted By: Brian553
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
I keep wondering if I needed to lube an o-ring chain. I feel like the only benefit is the roller-to-sprocket surfaces.
An O-ring chain that hasn't been compromised, seals in the grease between the pin and bushing. But you still want to lube the chain so there is lubrication between the roller and bushing, and roller and sprockets. Otherwise you will have more friction and wear, and less durability from the chain and sprocket set.
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
Maybe your thinking bar oil... gear oil is going to fling. I'd only consider it a off-road, wet application with a standard chain (which I wouldn't run in the first place). O-ring chain your wasting time, making a mess and additional maintenance.
I keep wondering if I needed to lube an o-ring chain. I feel like the only benefit is the roller-to-sprocket surfaces.
An O-ring chain that hasn't been compromised, seals in the grease between the pin and bushing. But you still want to lube the chain so there is lubrication between the roller and bushing, and roller and sprockets. Otherwise you will have more friction and wear, and less durability from the chain and sprocket set.
When I ran a chain oiler, I had good results with Redline 75W90 gear oil. In contrast, Redline Shockproof Heavy was too thick for the oiler.
If I were to use the chain oiler again, I'd lean towards bio-degradable 10W30 motor oil, which also worked fine in the oiler, and presumably the dirty oil slung off by the chain is less of an environmental problem.
If I were to use the chain oiler again, I'd lean towards bio-degradable 10W30 motor oil, which also worked fine in the oiler, and presumably the dirty oil slung off by the chain is less of an environmental problem.
Originally Posted By: 02SE
An O-ring chain that hasn't been compromised, seals in the grease between the pin and bushing. But you still want to lube the chain so there is lubrication between the roller and bushing, and roller and sprockets. Otherwise you will have more friction and wear, and less durability from the chain and sprocket set.
To add, lubricating an O-ring chain also helps the O-rings slide on the chain side plates when the chain goes around the sprockets.
An O-ring chain that hasn't been compromised, seals in the grease between the pin and bushing. But you still want to lube the chain so there is lubrication between the roller and bushing, and roller and sprockets. Otherwise you will have more friction and wear, and less durability from the chain and sprocket set.
To add, lubricating an O-ring chain also helps the O-rings slide on the chain side plates when the chain goes around the sprockets.
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
You can also heat the gear oil up to 170F in a tool pan and imerse the chain in there, if the chain is a split model. Take it out to run the excess oil, wipe it out. I do that. When the oil cools down its ready to replacement.
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
You can also heat the gear oil up to 170F in a tool pan and imerse the chain in there, if the chain is a split model. Take it out to run the excess oil, wipe it out. I do that. When the oil cools down its ready to replacement.
Originally Posted By: Hammehead
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
You can also heat the gear oil up to 170F in a tool pan and imerse the chain in there, if the chain is a split model. Take it out to run the excess oil, wipe it out. I do that. When the oil cools down its ready to replacement.
I like this idea, but how often do you do it?
Do you have a bin-full of master links?
Originally Posted By: Brian553
I thought gear oils already have a tackifier?
I say try it!--
"cut it down" with some mineral spirits or kerosene, put it in a tolerating spray bottle, and remember to both wipe off the excess and let dry overnight after applied (let some of the carrier used [mineral spirits/kerosene/ect] evaporate off).
you might even mix it with something to reduce the 'stickiness' of it by adding tire shine or pledge (PDMS/siloxane + kerosene). Not sure if that would actually reduce the stickiness, but I do what I can to keep dirt from attracting. Plus a "trial" costs so little; if it doesn't do as such, then dump and reformulate.
You can also heat the gear oil up to 170F in a tool pan and imerse the chain in there, if the chain is a split model. Take it out to run the excess oil, wipe it out. I do that. When the oil cools down its ready to replacement.
I like this idea, but how often do you do it?
Do you have a bin-full of master links?
I apply gear oil with a small brush and there is very little sling. Are those complaining that it's messy just pouring oil over the chain?
Also, when it's time to clean the chain and the back wheel, everything just wipes away with a rag, no solvents are needed. Try that with a wax spray.
Also, when it's time to clean the chain and the back wheel, everything just wipes away with a rag, no solvents are needed. Try that with a wax spray.
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