How much did all the products cost and where did you get them? The 05 Matrix wheels need the same treatment. Maybe just bring it to you?
Steel wheel rejuvenation...
- Thread starter Omahaug
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Looks really good.
I was wondering how you handled the tire overspray.
I'm spoiled, with my own tire machine, I get to take time to clean my rims up between/ during tire changes. Lets me grind down the bead sealing surface and polish it up real nice. Keep leaks down.
I'm spoiled, with my own tire machine, I get to take time to clean my rims up between/ during tire changes. Lets me grind down the bead sealing surface and polish it up real nice. Keep leaks down.
Here's a Chris Fix video on the topic that's pretty good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-TNsO33eqQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-TNsO33eqQ
Originally Posted By: zorobabel
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
Originally Posted By: Zorobabel
I take it you did not remove the weights?
Correct, the first time I did this for another car I did the whole process of marking the center line of the weights and removing them. Then I thought about it this time around, if I ever get the wheels rebalanced they're going to put new weights on and scratch up the paint anyway. I have no problem doing more coats so just left them on.
That makes sense, it's what I'll do, since I'm going to use a sponge brush anyway (I'm not crazy about inhaling paint vapors, even inhaling the volatiles in brushed paint messes me up).
What instrument did you use to clean the tight section near the welding?
I wore a 3M mask for particulates and organic vapors when I did the spray painting and I did it partially outdoors, on a non-windy day of course, you don't want stuff flying on to the paint after you tack it. The mask only cost me about $30 and the cartridges have lasted me years. I put them in a ziplock bag when I'm not using them so they won't absorb stuff from ambient air and "use themselves" up. When I put it on I smell nothing. I never paint without a respirator any more, it's cheap and health is no joke, it's a no brainer for me to avoid exposing myself to fumes.
I used a nylon bristle brush when I cleaned the whole wheel and made sure to get in really good where they welded it.
Quote:
How much did all the products cost and where did you get them? The 05 Matrix wheels need the same treatment. Maybe just bring it to you?
Ahahaha, each can of spray for the various stuff was about $7 to $8. I bought some of the stuff (adhesion promoter and filler primer) on Amazon, while the rest (the clear coat and epoxy paint was from Advance AutoParts). The cans were cheaper after using the 25% off coupon AAP hands out like candy all the time.
The total amount of cans used for four wheels:
1. Adhesion Promoter = About 25% to 50% of can since I only put one thin coat on just for things to stick on each wheel. I actually don't even think I need this but I did it last time and it worked so why not. If you're short on cost you can probably skip this since it's usually only for plastics or metals with passivation coatings, not steel.
2. Primer = Same amount as the AP. On other things I paint I do full coats of primer to totally cover it in uniform, multiple layers of primer. For this job I only do one or two light coats because the VHT Epoxy Paint says it doesn't need primer, so I go half way between what I want to do and what they tell me to do. Just enough primer to cover the whole surface lightly and evenly, no thickness or build here.
3. VHT Epoxy Paint = I used 1.5 cans (round up to two) for all four wheels. This is where I use a flashlight and go all around and make sure I covered all of the primer and the color is uniform.
4. Matte Clear Coat = Same amount of cans as VHT Epoxy Paint. I do enough coats to where I feel satisfied. I make sure to coat the center raised portion more than the other portions because those are the parts that are more vulnerable to rust based on how it started out.
Something else I do to speed the whole job along is I use a heat gun on the lowest setting far away to move warm air over the paint, helps the paint dry faster. Not trying to bubble or scorch the paint off. After a few minutes the paint is less than tacky. This lets me do all four wheels very quickly, about three hours total to finish the job. I only do the heatgun after the color and clear because those are the thickest coats and I don't want any solvent pop happening between those coats.
If I did get overspray on anything, brake cleaner removed it without harming whatever paint the wheels came with and the tire. The paint from the cans is usually lacquer or enamel, not some kind of crazy two stage catalyzing paint so brake cleaner will take it off easily.
The same day I painted the wheels I also plastidipped the silver wheel covers to black, two cans of plastidip to do that. As of now everything is done, dried and on the car. No paint finish issues, looks perfect. I lined up the painting so that the day after painting would be hot and sunny to dry everything.
This picture makes them look brighter than they actually are due to my poor picture taking (over exposure). The car looks much better to me now with everything blacked out matte.
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
Originally Posted By: Zorobabel
I take it you did not remove the weights?
Correct, the first time I did this for another car I did the whole process of marking the center line of the weights and removing them. Then I thought about it this time around, if I ever get the wheels rebalanced they're going to put new weights on and scratch up the paint anyway. I have no problem doing more coats so just left them on.
That makes sense, it's what I'll do, since I'm going to use a sponge brush anyway (I'm not crazy about inhaling paint vapors, even inhaling the volatiles in brushed paint messes me up).
What instrument did you use to clean the tight section near the welding?
I wore a 3M mask for particulates and organic vapors when I did the spray painting and I did it partially outdoors, on a non-windy day of course, you don't want stuff flying on to the paint after you tack it. The mask only cost me about $30 and the cartridges have lasted me years. I put them in a ziplock bag when I'm not using them so they won't absorb stuff from ambient air and "use themselves" up. When I put it on I smell nothing. I never paint without a respirator any more, it's cheap and health is no joke, it's a no brainer for me to avoid exposing myself to fumes.
I used a nylon bristle brush when I cleaned the whole wheel and made sure to get in really good where they welded it.
Quote:
How much did all the products cost and where did you get them? The 05 Matrix wheels need the same treatment. Maybe just bring it to you?
Ahahaha, each can of spray for the various stuff was about $7 to $8. I bought some of the stuff (adhesion promoter and filler primer) on Amazon, while the rest (the clear coat and epoxy paint was from Advance AutoParts). The cans were cheaper after using the 25% off coupon AAP hands out like candy all the time.
The total amount of cans used for four wheels:
1. Adhesion Promoter = About 25% to 50% of can since I only put one thin coat on just for things to stick on each wheel. I actually don't even think I need this but I did it last time and it worked so why not. If you're short on cost you can probably skip this since it's usually only for plastics or metals with passivation coatings, not steel.
2. Primer = Same amount as the AP. On other things I paint I do full coats of primer to totally cover it in uniform, multiple layers of primer. For this job I only do one or two light coats because the VHT Epoxy Paint says it doesn't need primer, so I go half way between what I want to do and what they tell me to do. Just enough primer to cover the whole surface lightly and evenly, no thickness or build here.
3. VHT Epoxy Paint = I used 1.5 cans (round up to two) for all four wheels. This is where I use a flashlight and go all around and make sure I covered all of the primer and the color is uniform.
4. Matte Clear Coat = Same amount of cans as VHT Epoxy Paint. I do enough coats to where I feel satisfied. I make sure to coat the center raised portion more than the other portions because those are the parts that are more vulnerable to rust based on how it started out.
Something else I do to speed the whole job along is I use a heat gun on the lowest setting far away to move warm air over the paint, helps the paint dry faster. Not trying to bubble or scorch the paint off. After a few minutes the paint is less than tacky. This lets me do all four wheels very quickly, about three hours total to finish the job. I only do the heatgun after the color and clear because those are the thickest coats and I don't want any solvent pop happening between those coats.
If I did get overspray on anything, brake cleaner removed it without harming whatever paint the wheels came with and the tire. The paint from the cans is usually lacquer or enamel, not some kind of crazy two stage catalyzing paint so brake cleaner will take it off easily.
The same day I painted the wheels I also plastidipped the silver wheel covers to black, two cans of plastidip to do that. As of now everything is done, dried and on the car. No paint finish issues, looks perfect. I lined up the painting so that the day after painting would be hot and sunny to dry everything.
This picture makes them look brighter than they actually are due to my poor picture taking (over exposure). The car looks much better to me now with everything blacked out matte.
Nicely done!
Came out really nice.
I'm about to do something similar to my old Tercel steelies. My original steelies are quite rusty and they are supposed to be gray/silver. I want to maintain the original look, so I won't hide it behind a hubcap. From the factory, it had just a very small hubcap just covering the center of the wheel.
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
I'm about to do something similar to my old Tercel steelies. My original steelies are quite rusty and they are supposed to be gray/silver. I want to maintain the original look, so I won't hide it behind a hubcap. From the factory, it had just a very small hubcap just covering the center of the wheel.
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
Looks great! Did you use spray on plasti-dip on the wheel covers? My Outback has steelies with not great silver OE wheel covers and I think they would look better in a darker colour.
Originally Posted By: Broo
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
Have fun, hope it turns out good!
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Looks great! Did you use spray on plasti-dip on the wheel covers? My Outback has steelies with not great silver OE wheel covers and I think they would look better in a darker colour.
Yes, just the normal black spray plastidip cans they sell everywhere.
If you ever plan on doing the plastidip the one big tip I recommend is warm up the plastidip can. If the can is even just a little chilly, the spray won't atomize, it comes out like splatter and dribbles all over the place. Even if you think the can isn't cold I'd still do the warming just in case.
If you heat it up under warm water or with a heat gun slightly the spray is like a fine mist, like night and day if you want even coverage without bumps.
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
Have fun, hope it turns out good!
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Looks great! Did you use spray on plasti-dip on the wheel covers? My Outback has steelies with not great silver OE wheel covers and I think they would look better in a darker colour.
Yes, just the normal black spray plastidip cans they sell everywhere.
If you ever plan on doing the plastidip the one big tip I recommend is warm up the plastidip can. If the can is even just a little chilly, the spray won't atomize, it comes out like splatter and dribbles all over the place. Even if you think the can isn't cold I'd still do the warming just in case.
If you heat it up under warm water or with a heat gun slightly the spray is like a fine mist, like night and day if you want even coverage without bumps.
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
Originally Posted By: Broo
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
Have fun, hope it turns out good!
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Looks great! Did you use spray on plasti-dip on the wheel covers? My Outback has steelies with not great silver OE wheel covers and I think they would look better in a darker colour.
Yes, just the normal black spray plastidip cans they sell everywhere.
If you ever plan on doing the plastidip the one big tip I recommend is warm up the plastidip can. If the can is even just a little chilly, the spray won't atomize, it comes out like splatter and dribbles all over the place. Even if you think the can isn't cold I'd still do the warming just in case.
If you heat it up under warm water or with a heat gun slightly the spray is like a fine mist, like night and day if you want even coverage without bumps.
Thanks, that is good to know before I made a mess of them!
Originally Posted By: Broo
I plan on sandblasting them then filler primer and paint. I hope I'll achieve as good a result as you did.
Have fun, hope it turns out good!
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Looks great! Did you use spray on plasti-dip on the wheel covers? My Outback has steelies with not great silver OE wheel covers and I think they would look better in a darker colour.
Yes, just the normal black spray plastidip cans they sell everywhere.
If you ever plan on doing the plastidip the one big tip I recommend is warm up the plastidip can. If the can is even just a little chilly, the spray won't atomize, it comes out like splatter and dribbles all over the place. Even if you think the can isn't cold I'd still do the warming just in case.
If you heat it up under warm water or with a heat gun slightly the spray is like a fine mist, like night and day if you want even coverage without bumps.
Thanks, that is good to know before I made a mess of them!
OP: excellent How-To! I see those are Honda wheels as the hole for the hub is axially long and it allows for the use of Honda center caps if you chose to run the steelies without wheel covers. Do any of you folks have a recommendation re the use of a specific center cap brand/type on a non Honda rim... where the center bore is not extended in length like the Hondas are? I need to do this for my '17 Mazda6... which has 16" steelies for wintertime. TIA.
Anyone, re wheel center caps for non-Honda steel wheels?
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