Toilets: One piece or two

[NibbanaBanana]

Wondering if anybody knows the answer to this. I am going to replace a toilet and want to get an American Standard Champion 4. They come in one piece and two piece models. I would like to get the one piece but was told by a plumber that (years ago) they didn't like the one piece toilets because they clogged more easily. Does anybody know if there is any difference in the flushing power of these two toilets?

Thanks.

 

[Volvoeric]

They're all low flow now.... no difference in flush

 

[TheLawnRanger]

You can replace the tank with a 2 parter if you were able to find a replacement at a salvage building supply place. Lots of perfectly good toilets from remodeling jobs.

 

[zzyzzx]

https://toiletfound.com/one-piece-vs-two-piece-toilet/

 

[knerml]

I installed the 2 piece Champion 4 toilet, and love it.

Never had a problem flushing.

The real advantage of a 2 piece toilet is weight. Easier to move around two light seperate pieces than one heavy one..

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted By: knerml

The real advantage of a 2 piece toilet is weight. Easier to move around two light seperate pieces than one heavy one..


A whole lot easier to set down just the bottom half of a toilet on the wax ring. Then put on the water closet.

 

[y_p_w]

I've done OK with a two piece. A one piece is harder to make, so they tend to be really expensive. A lot of two-piece toilets might be sold with options for different bowl lengths/heights. You can get that in one-piece toilets, but maybe not all the options.

I've never seen a two-piece toilet leak at the mounting point, although I had one that was really "squishy". It would rock back and forth because the washers were a bit soft.

The most important thing for flush performance is the size of the flapper and whether the trap is glazed. Both make for a more effective flush. I've got an American Standard Cadet 3 with a 3" flapper. Even though it's a 1.28 gpf toilet, I almost never see it get plugged up, although I have a Brasscraft bellows-type plunger if it does.

The Champion 4 uses a different style flush valve made by Lavelle.

 

[JTK]

Having set both, the only disadvantage to a one piece is like said above, they are much heavier and harder to get set in place by yourself than a 2-pc.

 

[tc1446]

Just finished having both bathrooms remodeled. Used a Kohler in one (wife wanted a "skirted" type for easier cleaning), and I chose a ONE piece Jacuzzi for the other. I can't compare either to the Amer Stan but I can guarantee you the Jacuzzi will be hard to beat and works better than the Kohler. Looks good, flushes lots of stuff without fail, leaving no "sliders" in the bowl like the Kohler does sometimes. Both have the two button flush on top. The Jacuzzi was about $180 at Lowes. BTW, installer said he was surprised that it was not too heavy for him to lift and install. Originally, he said I might need to help him carry it in.

 

[Jimzz]

I prefer the 1 piece for looks but performance will not depend on that.

Costco has a dual fluid 1 piece with install kit for $150. Installed several of those with no problems.

 

[y_p_w]

The most important thing is proper design for a good flush. That can happen with any toilet design.

The worst are those low-profile gravity flush toilets. They are horrible, especially the older ones with smaller flush valves. There's less potential energy in them.

However, even for a gravity fed low gpf toilet, having a taller tank helps because there's more potential energy from the static pressure from a higher column of water. Although mine is 1.28 gpf, the tank itself is actually pretty big - maybe about 3 gallons to the full line. When I flush, the flapper is designed to close quickly to achieve that lower gpf. I believe it might even be possible for me to adjust the flapper to get it to 1.6 gpf.

I guess another possibility is to use a pressure-assisted flush. However, those things scare me. I've heard of them exploding in commercial applications. A lot of businesses use flushometers where the pressure assist is done away from the toilet, but some smaller businesses can't provide that and go with these things with the pressure mechanism in the tank.

http://billingsgazette.com/news/state-an...e6a14b5f92.html

 

[NibbanaBanana]

I'll stay away from that type.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
I'll stay away from that type.

They tend to be extremely expensive. The general idea is that they go in so the staff won't have to clean up when a toilet won't flush. A flushometer (like in an office building) works just as well, but that requires a remote source of pressurized water.

Kohler has a system they call "Pressure Lite" which may not be as powerful or as expensive. There was one brand that had issues with their construction. Still - I freak out about using any brand.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Bath-Toilets...1vZbzbdZ1z0rxzm

 

[bruckus]

I recently installed 2 new kohlers with 1.2 gallon flush. Them buggers flush way better than my old 1.6 gallon American standards
that i removed. Less water better flush, 1 more to replace. These are 2 pc, i guess i'm not real fussy on looks just want good flush and i do like the slow close seats and comfort height.

 

[dishdude]

I splurged and got the one piece at Costco. Glad I did, eliminates a nasty and germ infested section between the tank and toilet.

 

[PimTac]

I have used these in many places including airplanes ( ANA) and they are the best at what they do.

https://www.totousa.com

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

When I lived in FL. I bought a HUD home in 1988 (4 BR/2.5 Bath). I was married then and wasn't making the money I was making 10-12 years later, and divorced.
In 1998, me and my friend, that owned his own plumbing business (just recently passed away) updated the plumbing in my home. I chose German made fixtures by GROHE. The master bath had a Bidet in it. All the toilets were one piece. If you can afford it, use GROHE fixtures. Yes, some can cost 4 figures, but if you want the BEST, you get what you pay for!
I also like KOHLER plumbing fixtures.

https://www.grohe.us/en_us/

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: bruckus
I recently installed 2 new kohlers with 1.2 gallon flush. Them buggers flush way better than my old 1.6 gallon American standards
that i removed. Less water better flush, 1 more to replace. These are 2 pc, i guess i'm not real fussy on looks just want good flush and i do like the slow close seats and comfort height.

A modern high-efficiency toilet used modern designs to flush better with less water. I think the wider glazed trap and flapper are probably the most important thing.

The reason why I replaced it was that the toilets in my house were plugging up much the time. They had newer internals, but at their heart they were old school toilets with 2" flappers that relied on lots of water to try and flush. I think I measured one of mine, and the flush was about 4.5 gallons. All that water didn't really help it flush better, but when it did plug up it was more likely to overfill the bowl with some of the contents spilling over. It was an old Standard toilet and I think it was marked 1958 on the inside of the tank. We had another one from the early 60s. By replacing our old toilets, we got a $100 rebate each in the form of a credit towards our water bills.

 

[NibbanaBanana]

Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: bruckus
I recently installed 2 new kohlers with 1.2 gallon flush. Them buggers flush way better than my old 1.6 gallon American standards
that i removed. Less water better flush, 1 more to replace. These are 2 pc, i guess i'm not real fussy on looks just want good flush and i do like the slow close seats and comfort height.

A modern high-efficiency toilet used modern designs to flush better with less water. I think the wider glazed trap and flapper are probably the most important thing.

The reason why I replaced it was that the toilets in my house were plugging up much the time. They had newer internals, but at their heart they were old school toilets with 2" flappers that relied on lots of water to try and flush. I think I measured one of mine, and the flush was about 4.5 gallons. All that water didn't really help it flush better, but when it did plug up it was more likely to overfill the bowl with some of the contents spilling over. It was an old Standard toilet and I think it was marked 1958 on the inside of the tank. We had another one from the early 60s. By replacing our old toilets, we got a $100 rebate each in the form of a credit towards our water bills.


Exactly the problem. We switched to a WFPB diet about three years ago and have had nothing but blocked toilets ever since. I can't find any manufacturer on either of the toilets we have now but inside the tank of one I can just make out "USA" and "1988". It is a 7 gallon flush and I was trying to figure out why it didn't flush well. I got an inspection mirror and looked at the holes under the rim. They are spaced about 2 1/2 inches apart, so not very many of them. I thought that they might be clogged with lime or sediment so I poked a wire through them. DIdn't seem to be blocked or restricted at all but they were very small. I could get a wire through but not a piece of solder. That's how small they are. So that probably accounts for the very poor flushing performance.

Anyway, I don't know why this guy said the two piece flush better than the one piece. But it seems like the modern one piece designs work well from what people are saying.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
Anyway, I don't know why this guy said the two piece flush better than the one piece. But it seems like the modern one piece designs work well from what people are saying.

For gravity feed, the ideal mechanism would use a tank mounted near the ceiling with a pipe leading to the bowl. That would allow for a lot of potential energy. These are old school, but they're still being made. The user would need to normally pull on a cord to flush, but I guess someone tall could use the lever handle.

http://barclayproducts.com/shop/toilets/victoria-high-tank-toilet/

The best flush comes from pressure-assist or a commercial flushometer. But I don't know of anyone who would install a commercial system in a house, and I'm still scared that a pressure-assist tank will detonate. However, the ones that have the biggest problems seem to be using plastic tanks. A lot of the commercial ones seem to cost about $800-1000 and use metal pressure tanks.

Quote:
https://www.flushmate.com/recall/pdf/2016-recall-announcement.pdf
Hazard: The system can burst at or near the vessel weld seam releasing stored pressure. This pressure can lift the tank lid and shatter the tank, posing impact and laceration hazards to consumers and property damage.

Description: This recall is for Series 503 Flushmate III Pressure Assist flushing systems installed inside toilet tanks that were manufactured from July 2009 through April 2011. The units are rectangular, black, two-piece vessels made of injection molded plastic. Previously recalled systems were manufactured from October 1997 through June 2009. Recalled units have a date code/serial number that is 16 characters long and is located on the label on the top of the Flushmate III. The first six numerals of the serial number are the date code. The date code range for units included in this recall in MMDDYY format is 070109 (July 1, 2009) through 043011 (April 30, 2011). The date code range for previously recalled systems in MMDDYY format was 101497 (October 14, 1997) through 063009 (June 30, 2009). Units included in this recall were sold individually and installed in toilets manufactured by American Standard, Copperfit, Crane, Ecotech, Eljer, Gerber, Kohler, Lamosa, Mancesa, Mansfield, Orion, St. Thomas, Universal Rundle, Vitra, Vitromex, Vortens and Western Pottery.


https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2016/flushm...lushing-systems