Fram Ultra Synthetic filter
Mobil 1 0W30 AFE
Mobil 1 0W30 AFE
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2016 Fiesta 1.0 7972mi OCI
- Thread starter Pepsibottle1
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
See comment about residual 0w20 … is that in the RH column of this report?
Your aluminum dropped by a factor of 4, and iron is trending about 1ppm/1k miles... you've got yourself a nice-wearing Ford there!
Originally Posted By: 4WD
See comment about residual 0w20 … is that in the RH column of this report?
That's a good question...the residual is 5W20 which is in the RH column. Maybe they were a bit confused? That report was on 5W20 Eneos
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Your aluminum dropped by a factor of 4, and iron is trending about 1ppm/1k miles... you've got yourself a nice-wearing Ford there!
Looks to be! We are doing the best we can to practice good maintenance so that we can pass this on to our daughter. We meet her in late August!
See comment about residual 0w20 … is that in the RH column of this report?
That's a good question...the residual is 5W20 which is in the RH column. Maybe they were a bit confused? That report was on 5W20 Eneos
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Your aluminum dropped by a factor of 4, and iron is trending about 1ppm/1k miles... you've got yourself a nice-wearing Ford there!
Looks to be! We are doing the best we can to practice good maintenance so that we can pass this on to our daughter. We meet her in late August!
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I think the wear metals look fine, but I'd suspect a higher fuel dilution than Blackstone reports based on the flashpoint and viscosity.
I guess another UOA after a winter run might test Blackstone's residual 0W20 theory if you are sticking with the M1 0W30...although this past winter was (mostly) unusually cold in the East and surely contributed to extra fuel dilution.
I guess another UOA after a winter run might test Blackstone's residual 0W20 theory if you are sticking with the M1 0W30...although this past winter was (mostly) unusually cold in the East and surely contributed to extra fuel dilution.
No need for 0W. Try a good 10w30. I LOVE QSUD 10w30 non Dexos. Stunning oil - likely the best out there. 0w busy you nothing in your climate - it doesn't even buy ME anything and I have a few 10 degrees below zero starts during the winter in New England.
That fuel % is high and a concern.
Is the car "warmed up" for an extended period in the morning or something?
I will say I really enjoyed the fiesta NA I rented a cupe years ago in Florida. Am I the only one that likes the doppelkupplunge? It got no converter mush and loss.
That fuel % is high and a concern.
Is the car "warmed up" for an extended period in the morning or something?
I will say I really enjoyed the fiesta NA I rented a cupe years ago in Florida. Am I the only one that likes the doppelkupplunge? It got no converter mush and loss.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No need for 0W. Try a good 10w30. I LOVE QSUD 10w30 non Dexos. Stunning oil - likely the best out there. 0w busy you nothing in your climate - it doesn't even buy ME anything and I have a few 10 degrees below zero starts during the winter in New England.
That fuel % is high and a concern.
Is the car "warmed up" for an extended period in the morning or something?
I will say I really enjoyed the fiesta NA I rented a cupe years ago in Florida. Am I the only one that likes the doppelkupplunge? It got no converter mush and loss.
I have suspected fuel dilution since before switching to Eneos thus the UOAs but apparently all is well? Odd. This run will be back to 5W20 as per spec, I just happened to have 0W30 handy and wanted to see how it would run. As far as warming up, no we have not been idling it since we have found through experience that it is best to let it sit briefly for about 20 seconds and slowly go about our way when cold
And the Ford dual clutch is JUNK. VW DSG is decent but Ford has had nothing but issues with theirs.
No need for 0W. Try a good 10w30. I LOVE QSUD 10w30 non Dexos. Stunning oil - likely the best out there. 0w busy you nothing in your climate - it doesn't even buy ME anything and I have a few 10 degrees below zero starts during the winter in New England.
That fuel % is high and a concern.
Is the car "warmed up" for an extended period in the morning or something?
I will say I really enjoyed the fiesta NA I rented a cupe years ago in Florida. Am I the only one that likes the doppelkupplunge? It got no converter mush and loss.
I have suspected fuel dilution since before switching to Eneos thus the UOAs but apparently all is well? Odd. This run will be back to 5W20 as per spec, I just happened to have 0W30 handy and wanted to see how it would run. As far as warming up, no we have not been idling it since we have found through experience that it is best to let it sit briefly for about 20 seconds and slowly go about our way when cold
And the Ford dual clutch is JUNK. VW DSG is decent but Ford has had nothing but issues with theirs.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
That is an excellent report. I wouldn’t change anything. Blackstone likes to keep extending he oci based on TBN but I would stick with 7500 miles to keep the fuel dilution in check.
This
That is an excellent report. I wouldn’t change anything. Blackstone likes to keep extending he oci based on TBN but I would stick with 7500 miles to keep the fuel dilution in check.
This
Originally Posted By: PimTac
That is an excellent report. I wouldn’t change anything. Blackstone likes to keep extending he oci based on TBN but I would stick with 7500 miles to keep the fuel dilution in check.
Naw, tig1 would be very disappointed if he didn't do 10,000 miles in a Ford! Hehe
That is an excellent report. I wouldn’t change anything. Blackstone likes to keep extending he oci based on TBN but I would stick with 7500 miles to keep the fuel dilution in check.
Naw, tig1 would be very disappointed if he didn't do 10,000 miles in a Ford! Hehe
Most of the cause of the low-ish 7.86 KV100 visc was fuel dilution, with some amount of normal VII breakdown. Both things cause thinning. You only had about 10% old residual 5w20 Eneos mixed in, so that contributed very little to the ending KV100 despite what Blackstone said (use the moly ppm to calc how much residual oil you had, 10% is it).
Still, 7.86 is a 5w20 KV100, just a little on the thin side compared to most 5w20's available. No problem really. This engine is spec'ed to use about a 7.86 KV100 for good Stribeck Curve behavior, so you're fine.
You were smart going with a 0w30. Any time fuel dilution is expected, this is a good idea to a step thicker. Keep using that one.
Your choice of a Fram Ultra is excellent too. (You must have read a few oil filter threads on BITOG here!)
Good low iron wear rates. TBN was high, meaning you didn't run out of acid-fighters.
I think you could easily take it to 10,000 miles with that style of driving. But maybe best to just follow what Ford's iOLM says to do.
Still, 7.86 is a 5w20 KV100, just a little on the thin side compared to most 5w20's available. No problem really. This engine is spec'ed to use about a 7.86 KV100 for good Stribeck Curve behavior, so you're fine.
You were smart going with a 0w30. Any time fuel dilution is expected, this is a good idea to a step thicker. Keep using that one.
Your choice of a Fram Ultra is excellent too. (You must have read a few oil filter threads on BITOG here!)
Good low iron wear rates. TBN was high, meaning you didn't run out of acid-fighters.
I think you could easily take it to 10,000 miles with that style of driving. But maybe best to just follow what Ford's iOLM says to do.
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Most of the cause of the low-ish 7.86 KV100 visc was fuel dilution, with some amount of normal VII breakdown. Both things cause thinning. You only had about 10% old residual 5w20 Eneos mixed in, so that contributed very little to the ending KV100 despite what Blackstone said (use the moly ppm to calc how much residual oil you had, 10% is it).
Still, 7.86 is a 5w20 KV100, just a little on the thin side compared to most 5w20's available. No problem really. This engine is spec'ed to use about a 7.86 KV100 for good Stribeck Curve behavior, so you're fine.
You were smart going with a 0w30. Any time fuel dilution is expected, this is a good idea to a step thicker. Keep using that one.
Your choice of a Fram Ultra is excellent too. (You must have read a few oil filter threads on BITOG here!)
Good low iron wear rates. TBN was high, meaning you didn't run out of acid-fighters.
I think you could easily take it to 10,000 miles with that style of driving. But maybe best to just follow what Ford's iOLM says to do.
Good to hear and thanks for the useful info. The Fram is a wicked deal really and it's probably going to be my go to for every vehicle here on out. I want to run one long run on the 5W20 to compare and I think I may end up sticking with 0W30 based on the results. That's why I initially bumped up to that. Ford calls for 10k and I don't like to run that far without knowing for sure that I can and I want to confirm doubts over dilution before pulling the trigger
This forum rocks, tons of awesome info and help to assist with preserving our vehicle for years to come. The 1.0 is stout!
Most of the cause of the low-ish 7.86 KV100 visc was fuel dilution, with some amount of normal VII breakdown. Both things cause thinning. You only had about 10% old residual 5w20 Eneos mixed in, so that contributed very little to the ending KV100 despite what Blackstone said (use the moly ppm to calc how much residual oil you had, 10% is it).
Still, 7.86 is a 5w20 KV100, just a little on the thin side compared to most 5w20's available. No problem really. This engine is spec'ed to use about a 7.86 KV100 for good Stribeck Curve behavior, so you're fine.
You were smart going with a 0w30. Any time fuel dilution is expected, this is a good idea to a step thicker. Keep using that one.
Your choice of a Fram Ultra is excellent too. (You must have read a few oil filter threads on BITOG here!)
Good low iron wear rates. TBN was high, meaning you didn't run out of acid-fighters.
I think you could easily take it to 10,000 miles with that style of driving. But maybe best to just follow what Ford's iOLM says to do.
Good to hear and thanks for the useful info. The Fram is a wicked deal really and it's probably going to be my go to for every vehicle here on out. I want to run one long run on the 5W20 to compare and I think I may end up sticking with 0W30 based on the results. That's why I initially bumped up to that. Ford calls for 10k and I don't like to run that far without knowing for sure that I can and I want to confirm doubts over dilution before pulling the trigger
This forum rocks, tons of awesome info and help to assist with preserving our vehicle for years to come. The 1.0 is stout!
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How warm was the engine when you took the oil sample?
Originally Posted By: Onug
How warm was the engine when you took the oil sample?
Relatively cold. It was near close and I had racked it after the car was sitting most of the day
How warm was the engine when you took the oil sample?
Relatively cold. It was near close and I had racked it after the car was sitting most of the day
Originally Posted By: Pepsibottle1
I want to run one long run on the 5W20 to compare and I think I may end up sticking with 0W30 based on the results. That's why I initially bumped up to that. Ford calls for 10k and I don't like to run that far without knowing for sure that I can and I want to confirm doubts over dilution before pulling the trigger
I'd expect more fuel dilution in your future, since it was there. A 360F flashpoint gives it away, and the drop in KV100 obviously. Based on that, I'd never use an xw20, always a 0w30 or 5w30, dexos1 spec oil too (for the right HTHS, etc.). Not even an experimental long run on 5w20 as you suggested.
I want to run one long run on the 5W20 to compare and I think I may end up sticking with 0W30 based on the results. That's why I initially bumped up to that. Ford calls for 10k and I don't like to run that far without knowing for sure that I can and I want to confirm doubts over dilution before pulling the trigger
I'd expect more fuel dilution in your future, since it was there. A 360F flashpoint gives it away, and the drop in KV100 obviously. Based on that, I'd never use an xw20, always a 0w30 or 5w30, dexos1 spec oil too (for the right HTHS, etc.). Not even an experimental long run on 5w20 as you suggested.
Originally Posted By: Pepsibottle1
Originally Posted By: Onug
How warm was the engine when you took the oil sample?
Relatively cold. It was near close and I had racked it after the car was sitting most of the day
Interesting...I had my first obvious fuel dilution in my last UOA and it was the only time that I drained the oil with the engine having only warmed for 5-7 minutes. Normally I go for a nice drive before the change to warm it up. I wonder if your relatively cold engine might have been the reason for the fuel too.
Originally Posted By: Onug
How warm was the engine when you took the oil sample?
Relatively cold. It was near close and I had racked it after the car was sitting most of the day
Interesting...I had my first obvious fuel dilution in my last UOA and it was the only time that I drained the oil with the engine having only warmed for 5-7 minutes. Normally I go for a nice drive before the change to warm it up. I wonder if your relatively cold engine might have been the reason for the fuel too.
On a side note, if you purposely run the engine to full operating temperature to try to reduce the fuel dilution reading in the analysis are you not getting the real world analysis you need? It would be like taking a extra dose of blood pressure medicine before going to the doctors office to get your bp down.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
On a side note, if you purposely run the engine to full operating temperature to try to reduce the fuel dilution reading in the analysis are you not getting the real world analysis you need? It would be like taking a extra dose of blood pressure medicine before going to the doctors office to get your bp down.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
I disagree. I think it’s good to know if fuel dilution is just a symptom of the motor running rich (cold) vs. fuel being present during the entire cycle. Having it there only during warm up is better than the entire drive. It’s just a hypothesis I’m working on at this point. It would be nice if multiple people can warm their engines up adequately before drawing the sample to see if it changes the dilution results.
Take for example the Ford EB motor. Most UOAs here show some level of fuel dilution, but I have yet to see any that have high levels of wear metals. Maybe this is because all the fuel we see is only from the start-up cycle and is not present in enough concentrations during the normal driving state to induce additional wear.
BTW - I like your Soviet State of Washington location...it sure feels like that lately.
On a side note, if you purposely run the engine to full operating temperature to try to reduce the fuel dilution reading in the analysis are you not getting the real world analysis you need? It would be like taking a extra dose of blood pressure medicine before going to the doctors office to get your bp down.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
I disagree. I think it’s good to know if fuel dilution is just a symptom of the motor running rich (cold) vs. fuel being present during the entire cycle. Having it there only during warm up is better than the entire drive. It’s just a hypothesis I’m working on at this point. It would be nice if multiple people can warm their engines up adequately before drawing the sample to see if it changes the dilution results.
Take for example the Ford EB motor. Most UOAs here show some level of fuel dilution, but I have yet to see any that have high levels of wear metals. Maybe this is because all the fuel we see is only from the start-up cycle and is not present in enough concentrations during the normal driving state to induce additional wear.
BTW - I like your Soviet State of Washington location...it sure feels like that lately.
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Originally Posted By: Onug
Originally Posted By: PimTac
On a side note, if you purposely run the engine to full operating temperature to try to reduce the fuel dilution reading in the analysis are you not getting the real world analysis you need? It would be like taking a extra dose of blood pressure medicine before going to the doctors office to get your bp down.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
I disagree. I think it’s good to know if fuel dilution is just a symptom of the motor running rich (cold) vs. fuel being present during the entire cycle. Having it there only during warm up is better than the entire drive. It’s just a hypothesis I’m working on at this point. It would be nice if multiple people can warm their engines up adequately before drawing the sample to see if it changes the dilution results.
Take for example the Ford EB motor. Most UOAs here show some level of fuel dilution, but I have yet to see any that have high levels of wear metals. Maybe this is because all the fuel we see is only from the start-up cycle and is not present in enough concentrations during the normal driving state to induce additional wear.
BTW - I like your Soviet State of Washington location...it sure feels like that lately.
Interesting thoughts. I’ve wondered about the lack of wear metals in the analysis we see here despite the fuel dilution. Maybe modern oils are that good to a point. There is still some mystery to the whole equation for me
Originally Posted By: PimTac
On a side note, if you purposely run the engine to full operating temperature to try to reduce the fuel dilution reading in the analysis are you not getting the real world analysis you need? It would be like taking a extra dose of blood pressure medicine before going to the doctors office to get your bp down.
Not the greatest analogy but I hope it is understood.
I disagree. I think it’s good to know if fuel dilution is just a symptom of the motor running rich (cold) vs. fuel being present during the entire cycle. Having it there only during warm up is better than the entire drive. It’s just a hypothesis I’m working on at this point. It would be nice if multiple people can warm their engines up adequately before drawing the sample to see if it changes the dilution results.
Take for example the Ford EB motor. Most UOAs here show some level of fuel dilution, but I have yet to see any that have high levels of wear metals. Maybe this is because all the fuel we see is only from the start-up cycle and is not present in enough concentrations during the normal driving state to induce additional wear.
BTW - I like your Soviet State of Washington location...it sure feels like that lately.
Interesting thoughts. I’ve wondered about the lack of wear metals in the analysis we see here despite the fuel dilution. Maybe modern oils are that good to a point. There is still some mystery to the whole equation for me
As a fellow owner of an EB, 2.3 in my case, I have to say that even with fuel dilution and viscosity shearing the wear metals with this oil seem to be good if not impressive. My wear numbers were also good but not with as many miles on the OC. This ~8,000 mile OC results are impressive for a small 3 cylinder turbo direct injected engine run in the winter. Our 2.3 EB specs 5W-30 oil and that sheared to a 20 wt using Motorcraft 5W-30 without even outward signs of fuel dilution or flash point reduction. If you can I'd stick with the xW-30 weight oil. I ran Mobil 1 5W-30 and one OC of Motorcraft 5W-30 and did UOAs. I'll be running Mobil 1 5W-30 for a while since I stocked up with Mobil 1 during their rebates.
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