Castrol Edge 0W40....what do I use it in?

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I'm a long time lurker here, first time posting.

I have a LOT of engines around. I maintain all my own stuff, the parents' stuff, and my sister's too.

So last week I see a ton of Edge 0W40 really cheap at Wally world (which everyone here probably already knows)and I picked it up.

I see a lot of people here saying it shears down to a 30 weight pretty quickly, but I'm not a big oil nerd (yet) so I've got to do some more research on just exactly what that entails.

But for now, what can I use this stuff in? I know it's good oil, but the 0W stuff is still a little iffy to me.

I have an 83 GMC with 305, three Jeep CJ's with 258's, and a 95 GMC with a 350. I know 40 weight is fine in all of those. This )W stuff ok to use in these old engines? I've been running Rotella or GTX in them, normally 10W30.

I daily drive a 94 Accord with 260K on it. I normally run 5W30 GTX in it, but would this syn 40 weight hurt anything? I'm thinking no, but it's something I plan to drive for a long time, so don't want to do anything harmful to it. I got 360K out of my 93 Accord with the same engine using 5W30 GTX and it didn't use a drop of oil when I sold it.

Wife has a 2011 Mazda 6 with the 2.5. Hers calls for 0W20/5W20 so I'm thinking a big no on the 40 weight in that one. Same with the 2010 and 2011 Accords, 2008 Odyssey.

I've got a lot of Generators, mowers, air compressors, etc that have small air cooled engines (mostly Honda) that I figure this full syn 0W40 will work great in. Main question is use in the vehicles.

Yes, I know this is a totally newb question. Figured it would be easier to come out and ask than to spend half a day reading and probably still not get a definitive answer.
 
It's one of the best readily available oils out there. I'm using it in my SRT Grand Cherokee as I type this. Use it with confidence.

I've used 0w-40 in pretty much everything.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
It’s one of the oils you can use in just about anything. Very light for a 40 weight.


Kind of what I was hoping to hear, but putting 40 weight in something that calls for 20 weight worried me a little
 
Use it in just about anything and everything. The euro 0W-40 oils are pretty much one-size-fits-all oils, and are more than capable of extended drains if that's your thing.
 
I run Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W40 in my 06 Odyssey which calls for 5W20 with no issues, and it gives great UOAs and extended drains as well.

BTW to answer your question: Castrol Edge 0W40....what do I use it in? You put it in your engine sump
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Couldn't miss the chance to point that out LOL WELCOME to the board!
 
I change the Accord and the wife's Mazda every 5K. We both commute 30 miles each way to work every day, so highway miles on those.

The trucks and Jeeps get changed about once a year, and that's usually under 3K miles.

Is that excessive? Yep, but I'd rather change too often than not often enough.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
I run Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W40 in my 06 Odyssey which calls for 5W20 with no issues, and it gives great UOAs and extended drains as well.

BTW to answer your question: Castrol Edge 0W40....what do I use it in? You put it in your engine sump
smile.gif
Couldn't miss the chance to point that out LOL WELCOME to the board!


Ha. Guess I left myself open for that.

Good to know on the Odyssey. I got some Pennzoil Plat 0W40 too. $1.50/quart. Sadly they only had 4 quarts of that. I got 48 quarts of the Castrol 0W40.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeepwm69
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
It’s one of the oils you can use in just about anything. Very light for a 40 weight.


Kind of what I was hoping to hear, but putting 40 weight in something that calls for 20 weight worried me a little


You should be commended for the abundance of caution you've displayed at the thought of using an oil weight which does not match the spec'd one for your car(s). However, in this instance, it truly is fine to use the 0W-40 weight oil when the oil cap says 5W-20.

In addition to the reasons everyone else has given, there are a couple of points that wouldn't hurt to keep in mind:
1) the 5W-20 oil weight isn't as much of a constant as you might think. The 20 in one oil's 5W-20 is not the same as the 20 in another oil's 5W-20. What they have in common is that their operating viscosity is thin enough to be considered Energy Conserving, and thus meet the general guidelines for a 5W-20 weight oil.
2) The part about Energy Conserving is what your car's manufacturer is most concerned about when declaring the 5W-20 oil weight to be the right choice. Lots of other oil weights will work just fine in the engine, but that 20 weight designation means it is thin enough to help the car meet the declared MPG numbers without compromising the lubrication of the internal parts during extreme operating conditions. Will a 5W-30 work? Sure. Same goes for a 10W-30 or even a 0W-40. But the catch is that the car may fall short (even if by a fraction of a percent only) of its declared MPG numbers when running those thicker oils.
3) A synthetic 0W-40 is going to be much preferred to a conventional 10W-40 for a non-spec'd application. The reason has to do with how synthetics go from their W number (10W, 0W, 5W, etc.) to their operating temperature number (xxW-20, xxW-30, xxW-40, etc.) versus how conventionals do it. The bottom line is that it's better to do it how the synthetics do it as opposed to how the conventionals do it, so running a synthetic that's a little over the weight indicated on your oil cap is not going to be an issue for the engine at all.
4) The 5W-20 weight is likely just a general suggestion for the engine based upon the general characteristics the car's average driver is likely to face. The true spec'd oil for the engine is most likely any that meets the API SN rating. As long as it meets that (which the 0W-40 you have clearly does), and the local climate conditions do not rule out the oil's weight for proper flow at cold temps (which yours does not, as the 0W-40 has superb cold flow I would bet), then run any weight you want as long as it has the SN on the back of the bottle.

Now, I made some sweeping generalizations and paraphrased a lot of what I've read in responding here. As such, I'm sure any true BITOG'er could reply back with a littany of mistakes or exclusions I've made in listing out my reasons for running the 0W-40 oil. To those folks I would say, "Really? Does correcting THAT piece of info really make any difference in the point I'm trying to make??" If the answer is yes, then obviously I want to be corrected where I'm wrong. If the answer is no, please save us the semantic wormhole that correcting me would no doubt open up.
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In anything older than 2009, I'd put in some seal conditioner separately, then you can use the Castrol 0w40. Its a fantastic oil, meeting some of the toughest performance standards on the planet. No real concern about excessive VII shearing in this one.

LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver is a great seal conditioner choice (not seal 'sweller', that's a different thing). Conditioners merely keep ancient seals flexible to go longer without leaking. NAPA autoparts has it, or order online from Amazon. Half-doses are fine.

For your newer stuff, you could use the 0w40 in that, as it would not harm wear. However, you'll take something like a 2% hit in MPG. If you are willing to, use Valvoline MaxLife full-syn 0w20 dexos1 Gen2 oil (walmart or amazon in 5-qt jugs) in all your newer engines, since dexos1 is a high standard, and maxlife has some seal conditioning in it for those old-ish 7 year old engines, starting to age and ready for maxlife to keep them from leaking in the future.

Also, the best oil filter to grab whenever you can find one to fit is Fram Ultra. Avoid Purolators since they are prone to get holes in them.
 
Jeepwm9, I think this summer just to continue to prove some people wrong, I might actually run the 0W40 in my 2011 Fusion and pull a UOA at 15k miles. It's had a steady diet of Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum (other than 1 slightly disappointing OCI on Mobil 1) for a little over 100k miles now, all in 0 or 5W20. Since summer is coming up, I doubt there's any real change in the performance, and based on what I saw with the UOA on the Odyssey, wear metals should be down slightly (although still within a statistically similar wear rate; over 100k on every oil change my iron has been between 0.7 and 1.0ppm per 1k miles, so I don't see that changing but expect it to be towards the lower end.

Really, on everything you have other than maybe the Mazda, I'd use the 0W40 in it with zero hesitation.
 
Well the Jeeps are going to leak. If I can use this in the accords, the Odyssey, and maybe even the 6 I'll probably do that and keep using Rotella in the Jeeps and GMC's. If you see an AMC-era Jeep that isn't leaking it's because it's out of fluid. Seriously. Dad bought his 85 Scrambler new in November of 1984 and the plastic valve cover was leaking when he got home from the dealership with it.

I know synthetics tend to seep more than conventional, so I'll probably use the Edge in the newer stuff, and stick to T4 or T5 in the older stuff. It's been on closeout too so I've got full on hoarding on oil here lately. I bought years' worth of GTX back when Autozone used to have $12.99 oil change specials with 5 quarts and a Bosch filter. I've finally gone through it all, so am trying to build my stash back up. I use Denso filters on the Japanese cars, and Bosch on everything else. Normally order them in large quantities from Rockauto, but Walmart's been closing out the Bosch filters so I've bought a metric ton of those too (as cheap as .25 each for SBC filters).

Thanks for the replies. I'm a creature of habit so I've used GTX from the early 90's. I started buying Rotella when I got into ATV's around 2010 (have 24 in the back yard at the moment) and found that the T4 was JASO MA rated. Then I found that a lot of Jeepers use the 15W40 T4 in the 258's. Other than those two I've never strayed much as far as oils are concerned.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: Jeepwm69

I know synthetics tend to seep more than conventional


Uh, what?


Synthetics tend to expose iffy seals in an engine. I guess it cleans out the [censored] that is keeping the engine sealed up?
 
I think that is true with much older engines using different types of seals than those used in about the last 30 years. So if you have something newer than this it shouldn't be a big concern.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
In anything older than 2009, I'd put in some seal conditioner separately, then you can use the Castrol 0w40. Its a fantastic oil, meeting some of the toughest performance standards on the planet. No real concern about excessive VII shearing in this one.

LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver is a great seal conditioner choice (not seal 'sweller', that's a different thing). Conditioners merely keep ancient seals flexible to go longer without leaking. NAPA autoparts has it, or order online from Amazon. Half-doses are fine.

For your newer stuff, you could use the 0w40 in that, as it would not harm wear. However, you'll take something like a 2% hit in MPG. If you are willing to, use Valvoline MaxLife full-syn 0w20 dexos1 Gen2 oil (walmart or amazon in 5-qt jugs) in all your newer engines, since dexos1 is a high standard, and maxlife has some seal conditioning in it for those old-ish 7 year old engines, starting to age and ready for maxlife to keep them from leaking in the future.

Also, the best oil filter to grab whenever you can find one to fit is Fram Ultra. Avoid Purolators since they are prone to get holes in them.


Never had a problem with the Purolator Boss or pure one with getting holes. I like the boss.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
I think that is true with much older engines using different types of seals than those used in about the last 30 years. So if you have something newer than this it shouldn't be a big concern.

My leaky 89 Beretta didn't change it's leak pattern one hair when I put in this oil. I think it really depends from one car to the next more than anything. I had a 93 J30 that stopped leaking after I put LOS (I know, I know) in it, and I attribute it (now) to sludge. I'm sure an HDEO will have the same effect as a syn oil, clean the path for leaks.
 
I have PP EURO 0W40 in my f150's 4.2V6 right now. My engine (150K miles) runs the quietest ever, since adding this oil. And, I have used A LOT of different brands and weights, in my engine.
I have (6) qts. of Castrol 0W40 on deck for my next OCI. Someone told the local Redneck Cajuns around here about it being on clearance at WM and they swooped it up faster than you can say JOHN DEERE TRACTOR.
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