'09 TDI - LM Top Tec 4200 w/ LM Mos2 - 8K mile OCI

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

CleverUserName

Joined
Nov 8, 2017
Messages
774
Location
California
This is my 2nd analysis on this car. '09 Jetta TDI 6M w/ 114K. Car has been mechanically sound, however it has some electrical/sensor issues that appeared at ~100K miles so I think it's time do the buyback while I still can.

1st sample was about 5 years ago and it posted here as well. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._42#Post4621345

70% freeway, 30% city

I added about 200 mL of LM 2009 Mos2 to this oil. Ran the car exclusively on HVO w/ Stanadyne PF additive for about 4K miles. We Californians have limited access to HVO.

Iron PPM is similar per 1K than the previous test.

TBN is low like my previous sample. I think if I had gone to 10k it would have been < 1.0 again. This oil does not hold up.

Do these cars have lead/copper bearings or are they the aluminum type?

 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DerekG
I used what I "think" is the newer version of the 507.00 oil (it's in a gold bottle) you are using on my recent OCI and it did pretty well over the 7,800mi it was in the car. I didn't do TBN in this one though.

https://www.europaparts.com/liqui-moly-l...SUaAiMxEALw_wcB

My golf doesn't have as many miles as yours, but my iron levels have never been over 43ppm over the last 5 UOAs I've done on it.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._50#Post4723139


Like the title says, I’m using LM Top Tec 4200 + LM 2009. Not LM Longlife III. 4200 is expensive and overall the two reports I’ve sent in with it are disappointing to say the least. It’s the only oil I’ve been using for the last 5 years cause I got a good deal on a 20L jug. I just finished it up with this last oil change.

I forgot to mention that I have a metalnerd magnetic drain plug installed now so the actual iron reading would likely be higher otherwise.
 
I read the post. I was just hinting to the fact you may want to try a different 507 oil, but if you are doing the buyback it won't really matter.

I'm curious, do you notice much on the magnetic drain plug when you change your oil? I'm always tempted to add one to my cart when buying one of the IDParts oil change kits.

Any idea what you will replace the car with after the buyback?

Cheers
 
Originally Posted By: DerekG
I read the post. I was just hinting to the fact you may want to try a different 507 oil, but if you are doing the buyback it won't really matter.

I'm curious, do you notice much on the magnetic drain plug when you change your oil? I'm always tempted to add one to my cart when buying one of the IDParts oil change kits.

Any idea what you will replace the car with after the buyback?

Cheers



Yes there is always some fine grit on the plug. I used the extractor this time cause I wanted to just get it done.

The metalnerd plug is a nice piece but it doesn’t use a neodymium magnet. Knowing what I do now I would get a plug that does; dimple, powerslut racing or gold plug do use rare earth magnets.

I also now see your golf is emissions deleted. That’s why the wear numbers are so low, it’s not the oil choice. You could be using a real HDEO and go out to 20k mile OCI instead of wasting money on VW 507 oil.

TDI Replacement? I bought a 2017 GMC Canyon 2.8 Duramax last year so I don’t need to get something right away, However I was looking at the Chevy Cruze diesel and Volt. Maybe a Mazda. Depends on what the deals are at the end of the year.
 
Any idea why the wear metals are higher in stock TDIs? Is it simply the fact that there is more resistance in the system that causes more wear? Just curious.
 
Originally Posted By: DerekG
Any idea why the wear metals are higher in stock TDIs? Is it simply the fact that there is more resistance in the system that causes more wear? Just curious.


It’s primarily from high EGR flow rates and combustion byproducts like nitric/sulfuric acids and soot. Soot is abrasive and acids are corrosive.

I’ve seen an oil report from a Ram Ecodiesel that had a tune that shut off EGR flow and re-mapped fuel/boost curves. The emissions equipment was still on the truck but EGR and DEF was disabled. DPF still functioned. The numbers were like yours, Single digit wear metals.

Ironically I have a CR170 turbo, downpipe and 3” cat-back exhaust that I bought for this car a month before the VW emissions scandal broke. I never installed it because I didn’t know what was going to happen. I’m gonna have to sell the delete kit and all my extra parts when I do the buyback.
 
Wow, that's crazy. Thanks for the info.

I still have the stock turbo with Malone's stage 2 tune on my car. I'm sure I'll replace it with a CR170 + stage 3 at some point if the turbo goes or my DMF/clutch wears out/fails.
 
Originally Posted By: DerekG
Wow, that's crazy. Thanks for the info.

I still have the stock turbo with Malone's stage 2 tune on my car. I'm sure I'll replace it with a CR170 + stage 3 at some point if the turbo goes or my DMF/clutch wears out/fails.


Yes stage III is kinda extreme. It's not just the clutch and DMF that needs to be replaced, the transmission synchros aren't strong enough for the torque peak at 2200 RPM. There were a bunch of guys who broke their synchros with this tune. Some had custom brass ones made. This was a couple years ago and I don't follow the threads anymore, maybe someone is making brass synchros for these cars now or there is another solution.

I was going to do a custom stage II tune w/ the CR170 turbo.

The tuner I bought the stuff from said the CR170 turbo would give me a much wider powerband, with more usable power at the top end than the stock turbo ever could.
 
Originally Posted By: CleverUserName

I was going to do a custom stage II tune w/ the CR170 turbo.

The tuner I bought the stuff from said the CR170 turbo would give me a much wider powerband, with more usable power at the top end than the stock turbo ever could.


I like that idea. I really don't want to break anything.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DerekG
Originally Posted By: CleverUserName

I was going to do a custom stage II tune w/ the CR170 turbo.

The tuner I bought the stuff from said the CR170 turbo would give me a much wider powerband, with more usable power at the top end than the stock turbo ever could.


I like that idea. I really don't want to break anything.


Smart idea. Not a good plan to turn your reliable car into an unreliable car for an extra 20 hp.

I also have a complete timing belt kit that I will also need to sell. All new VAG parts purchased from the dealer. I think it was close to $800 for everything.

I have everything that should be replaced while the timing belt is off: including the serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, all new TTY bolts, oil pump hex key, camshaft and other assorted seals, etc.. etc.. etc.. too much stuff to remember.

However I did not get a water pump as I wanted to use an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller.

Let me know if you want any parts or the timing belt kit. If so, make me an offer. Good luck with your Golf.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
2006 Jetta TDI 5MT 96K- 5,000 mi OCI after camshaft replacement - Pentosin HP 2 5w40
Replies
10
Views
2K
930.engineering
C
  • Locked
2003 Golf TDI 11.2K miles - RLI Biosyn 10w40 UOA
Replies
1
Views
1K
jayg
C
  • Locked
2009 Jetta TDI - LM Top Tec 4200 - 10K mi OCI
Replies
13
Views
3K
CleverUserName
N
  • Locked
'12 VW Passat TDI - Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30
2
Replies
24
Views
45K
Nativefx
H
  • Locked
2011 JSW TDI: LM Top Tec 4200 @ 5k miles
Replies
7
Views
8K
SR1919
Back
Top