Wheel Bearings Going Bad Just Sitting There?

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Greetings-
Had to replace a rear wheel bearing on my favorite garage queen with 20K miles (driven maybe 3k a year). Mechanic said it went bad because car was used infrequently- use it lose it. I think it was a manufacturing defect. One YouTube site actually showed how little grease was in these bearings.

Mechanic's diagnosis make sense? Opinions/thoughts welcome
 
OK, so the rear end oil level is often below the bearing when sitting level. They get occasionally oiled when you turn or side hill, park on off camber, etc. Ball and roller bearings do not need a lot of oil. But they need a good residual film.

So I have to ask, did you use synthetic gear lube?

The reason I ask, is because many synthetics have a lower surface tension than dino oils. That is one reason they can go lower viscosity when cold like 5W w/o needing a ton of VII's. But, the downside to these lubes is they also have less ability to maintain capillary fill. They drain off quicker. There is a some residual film of course, but it may be thinner ...

Dino oils usually have a mix of constituents and these tend to up the surface tension and do a better job at capillary fill. So I usually use high quality dino oils for stuff that sits around a lot. Of course if it's wet because it's under the full line, there is no need. But for components that have "splash" lubrication, I think dino's are better for the long sitters
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if its a GM product later model wheel bearing failures are often + common at low miles!! owners report replacements are just as bad + only last until warranty is gone!!
 
Thank you Bronc-
I think we are talking about two different things. These bearings are sealed greased for life rear hub bearings. No oil or gear lube ever comes in contact. No oil to check...
 
I get it every spring with boat trailer bearings. The customers moan that the bearings were replaced last year, there shouldn't be a problem. Yeah, but it's been sitting doing nothing for 6 months since you last put the boat in the water...rusting away...
 
Originally Posted By: willbur
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Make & Model??


Porsche 911


Hmm...not much GM-knocking mileage there then.

If I lived a bit closer, I'd offer to exercise it for you occaisionally.
 
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It makes no sense at all with a vehicle driven 3K a year. The five possibilities I can think of at the moment are:

Junk Chinese bearing
Improper installation
Incorrect fastener torque
Brake dragging, excessive heat (but then brake problem is evident)
Wheel alignment off (but then tire wear problem is evident)


Get a different mechanic, he doesn't know squat if he thinks a sealed bearing driven 3K in a year needs driven more. If anything it would have worn out faster had it been driven more.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: willbur
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Make & Model??


Porsche 911


Hmm...not much GM-knocking mileage there then.

If I lived a bit closer, I'd offer to exercise it for you occaisionally.


It's still GM's fault. Somehow. Everything is.
confused2.gif
 
Its maybe the flipside of that "What's good for General Motors is good for the country" thing.

They should really have seen that coming back at them sooner or later.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, so the rear end oil level is often below the bearing when sitting level. They get occasionally oiled when you turn or side hill, park on off camber, etc. Ball and roller bearings do not need a lot of oil. But they need a good residual film.


Thats why I put my finger on filling hole when filling rear diff...to slightly "overfill" rear diff.

I really dont know why all manufacturers drill that filling hole to sit just below the driving axle? So that rear bearings get oil only when you are driving...
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, so the rear end oil level is often below the bearing when sitting level. They get occasionally oiled when you turn or side hill, park on off camber, etc. Ball and roller bearings do not need a lot of oil. But they need a good residual film.

So I have to ask, did you use synthetic gear lube?

The reason I ask, is because many synthetics have a lower surface tension than dino oils. That is one reason they can go lower viscosity when cold like 5W w/o needing a ton of VII's. But, the downside to these lubes is they also have less ability to maintain capillary fill. They drain off quicker. There is a some residual film of course, but it may be thinner ...

Dino oils usually have a mix of constituents and these tend to up the surface tension and do a better job at capillary fill. So I usually use high quality dino oils for stuff that sits around a lot. Of course if it's wet because it's under the full line, there is no need. But for components that have "splash" lubrication, I think dino's are better for the long sitters
smile.gif


I don't buy this at all.He said it was a sealed bearing. More likely was an engineering issue.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kestas
Are you telling me it's a sealed bearing, and the mechanic made the diagnosis without taking the bearing apart?


Yes- I guess its a convenient explanation. He R&R'd the bearing and did not inspect it. Could sitting cause minute indentations in the race by the balls that initiate the failure sequence?

The shop is highly regarded and been around since early 1960's and seen all kinds of stuff and I did not question their explanation (even though it seemed suspect).
 
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