Replaced some valve stem seals, 4.0 ohv with Pic's

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Whipcitywrencher

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I'm posting this for those who may have the same problem and want to fix it.

My ride in the sig. was burning some oil, slowly more and more, about a quart every 3000 miles or so. I only noticed a puff of blue on start up sometimes and figured (was hoping) the valve stem seals were going bad. (Also was getting more and more pinging under load).
Two months ago I decided I'd change them out, Now two months later, about a 1000 miles and a couple cans of gumout, the dip stick still reads full and the pinging is almost totally gone.
Also the engine runs so much better.Took me two days to do the job.

I'm posting some picks of the engine and tools if any one considers doing this job.
Tools needed, compressor and the plug hole adapter not pictured, spring compressor,and I bought a cheap (valve stem seal puller and installer) but not really needed, pliers and a socket will work.




(Notice how worn the old seal to the left is) ^^^^
(And the seals on the right)



 
Nice job man. Always love when the compressed air holds the valve with no problems.
Sidenote: Ford should have kept the 4.0L as OHV. I had a Ranger with that engine, miss the torque.
 
Nice job
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Originally Posted By: PeterPolyol
Nice job man. Always love when the compressed air holds the valve with no problems.
Sidenote: Ford should have kept the 4.0L as OHV. I had a Ranger with that engine, miss the torque.
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Nice job
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Originally Posted By: car51
Pete: very nice write up and great post
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Thanks Guys.
 
In the late 1960s I bought a Mustang with 289 that burned oil. I was 17 and I knew everything about cars and engines. Decided the valve stem seals needed to be replaced. Bought Perfect Circle ones. Then realized the area needed to be cut for the seals. Pulled the heads. Decided to lap the valves. Decided it would be better with a 3/4 grind cam. Bought a cam. Then wouldn't popup pistons be a good idea. How about the bearings, had crank turned. Engine was dirty, had it hot tanked. Months latter it was running, idled at about 1200. Would overheat in traffic.

So started with valve stem seals and went quickly down hill. Who knows if I needed to replace half the things I did.

Learned a lot. Sold the car and bought a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with 351 Windsor.
 
Originally Posted By: boulderdentist
Curious, may have missed but how many miles on the engine?

Scott


182k in his signature
 
The Rat's odo resets at 999999.9 It shows 32K. It has a 4.0. Its off the road, but it hauls the trash to pickup on the street a 1400 foot round trip. I run it in 4 low with the hubs unlocked. The truck has had a hard life for 132K. I have done nothing to the engine since I bought it back in 7/12. Just fluids and filters. One oil change of dino 5w30 since. Runs like a watch. Won't pass inspection. Makes a heck of a wood mover though. I'd love a better example of the Rat. Its a beat up old truck holding a great little 60' V6.
 
I have never done this with the head installed, what do you do to keep the valves from falling into he cylinder? Not an issue?
 
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
I have never done this with the head installed, what do you do to keep the valves from falling into he cylinder? Not an issue?

Wish I put this in the original post but I forgot.
You need a compressor and these attachments...Also start it at top dead center, I put my truck in 2nd gear with the e brake on, 5th would have been even better.Use a strong pen magnet or even some twizzers and make sure when you take off the valve spring retainer or (keeper's) there's some back pressure there, so that the valve does not fall into the cylinder. If you've never done this before watch a few youtube videos and read up on it .


 
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