TGMO 0W-20, 9900 mi.; 2012 Elantra 259,000 mi.

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I have yet to add oil other than 4 quarts at change. I dumped in the 4-1/4 qts. this fill because it was low on the stick when I made this change. I hit a deer so my hood was "leaky" for winter driving here in PA so maybe that added to contaminants. Is 21 ppm iron high for a car with these miles? Moly high again, new formulation? Thanks
 
I would recheck your air intake. The deer hit may have loosened it up or cracked it somewhere. Silicon numbers usually point to air filter or intake issues.
 
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
Is 21 ppm iron high for a car with these miles? Moly high again, new formulation?

Iron is a bit high. Yes, like others say, check the tightness of the seals around the air filter and the air path plastic tubes and clamps.
TGMO did reformulate to a recipe that looks like MGMO (mazda's) and Idemitsu 0w20 is.

Thats a lot of miles for a 7 year old car. Was it previously a rental car? Doesn't burn or leak much oil, nice.
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Just seeing your Elantra with that many miles makes me feel good about my wife's 2014 Elantra limited. She only has about 33K miles on it and absolutely loves it. We usually will drive cars till they wear out.

Has the car been reliable for you?
 
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Thats a lot of miles for a 7 year old car. Was it previously a rental car?

Bought it new, highway warrior.

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Maybe start putting some miles on the 09 Elantra in your signature.

NG. Wife's car.

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Has the car been reliable for you?

Very. And best mpg of all the cars I've owned, including 84 diesel rabbit.

I'm going to get the body parts I need installed (now in the basement) and check out the intake and probably do another UOA with thru the summer driving. By the way I got the WIX kit at NAPA, ordered online to pick up at my local store and registered online. $14 minus $5 for registering online. So $9 plus $3.50 postage.

I'm wondering if the TGMO is still the best choice with the high miles, but since I haven't needed to add between changes I'm sticking with it.

 
I'm probably going to try a Fram Ultra Synthetic filter this change. I see it has a silicon valve. Is this a concern for silicon contamination?
 
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.
 
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
By the way I got the WIX kit at NAPA, ordered online to pick up at my local store and registered online. $14 minus $5 for registering online. So $9 plus $3.50 postage.


Anyone have a part number or link for the kit so I can buy one? Thank you in advance!
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.



The 0/20 likely caused the problem.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.



The 0/20 likely caused the problem.


OMG! Don't say that on here, the thin oil cult will attack you and burn you at the stake!
 
Quote:
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.



The 0/20 likely caused the problem.


I haven't needed to add any oil between 10K mile changes. No smoke. Wouldn't there be other signs besides the iron?
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: dblshock
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.



The 0/20 likely caused the problem.


OMG! Don't say that on here, the thin oil cult will attack you and burn you at the stake!





Considering the OP has 259000 on the odometer with 0w20 oil, your fears of thin oil are unfounded.
 
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
Quote:
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
With your iron at almost double the last reading I'd say that motor is showing its age and that "water" your're using for oil isn't doing the job anymore, common sense says to thicken it up some to help out the likely large clearances in that 260k mile motor.

I'd almost bet a robust 5W30 would drop your iron numbers and buy you another 30k miles at least.



The 0/20 likely caused the problem.


I haven't needed to add any oil between 10K mile changes. No smoke. Wouldn't there be other signs besides the iron?

Just ignore it.

In all likelihood, the increase in iron is linked to the impact. As others have suggested, check your air filter and get your new parts installed. Then run your normal OCI and let's see what the UOA tells us at that point. Until we can remove some of the variables, there's just no way we can pin the increase in iron on an oil that has served you well for so long.
 
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