Can anyone explain how a clay bar works?
- Thread starter grampi
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Basically its Friction. Friction of the clay pulls the contaminates off. In a nutshell.
Can go on about this, but that is basically what it does.
Jeff
Can go on about this, but that is basically what it does.
Jeff
Since the clay is so dense and tacky it shears off anything stuck on the surface that regular washing doesn't remove.
Mother's, Surf City have clay sponges which are kind of like rubber sponges that do the same thing but no kneading required. All don't have to chuck it in the garbage if it drops on the ground. Autogeek has a $13 nano-sponge available. Seems to be a step up from traditional clay. Since regular clay loads up with contaminants after a few uses. Walmart used to stock Surf City Clayzilla but now carries Mother's Clay Sponge for around $20 or so. Comes with detailer to use as lube.
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/17240.html
Mother's, Surf City have clay sponges which are kind of like rubber sponges that do the same thing but no kneading required. All don't have to chuck it in the garbage if it drops on the ground. Autogeek has a $13 nano-sponge available. Seems to be a step up from traditional clay. Since regular clay loads up with contaminants after a few uses. Walmart used to stock Surf City Clayzilla but now carries Mother's Clay Sponge for around $20 or so. Comes with detailer to use as lube.
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/17240.html
If you run your finger tip through your paint, you may feel some slight bumps/imperfections, but you will not remove them. But if you run your finger nail through these same bumps, you might dislodge them. That's essentially what a claybar does, but in a more gentle fashion.
I use the nano-sponge and have been happy with changing over from the typical clay bar.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Since the clay is so dense and tacky it shears off anything stuck on the surface that regular washing doesn't remove.
Mother's, Surf City have clay sponges which are kind of like rubber sponges that do the same thing but no kneading required. All don't have to chuck it in the garbage if it drops on the ground. Autogeek has a $13 nano-sponge available. Seems to be a step up from traditional clay. Since regular clay loads up with contaminants after a few uses. Walmart used to stock Surf City Clayzilla but now carries Mother's Clay Sponge for around $20 or so. Comes with detailer to use as lube.
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/17240.html
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Since the clay is so dense and tacky it shears off anything stuck on the surface that regular washing doesn't remove.
Mother's, Surf City have clay sponges which are kind of like rubber sponges that do the same thing but no kneading required. All don't have to chuck it in the garbage if it drops on the ground. Autogeek has a $13 nano-sponge available. Seems to be a step up from traditional clay. Since regular clay loads up with contaminants after a few uses. Walmart used to stock Surf City Clayzilla but now carries Mother's Clay Sponge for around $20 or so. Comes with detailer to use as lube.
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/17240.html
I feel that it isn't friction, it's more of a shearing/scraping action like SatinSilver mentions. The clay conforms to the surface, separated with the lubricant/liquid. Then as you slide across, anything that is higher than the majority of the surface gets sheared off the paint.
I believe clay is a feldspar mineral. The cleaner "BonAmi" is ground feldspar, so best guess is it is a amazingly fine grained abrasive akin to jewel's rouge.
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Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I feel that it isn't friction, it's more of a shearing/scraping action like SatinSilver mentions. The clay conforms to the surface, separated with the lubricant/liquid. Then as you slide across, anything that is higher than the majority of the surface gets sheared off the paint.
I don't think it shears, as I understand it will actually pull contaminants out of crevasses in the paint. Is this not true?
I feel that it isn't friction, it's more of a shearing/scraping action like SatinSilver mentions. The clay conforms to the surface, separated with the lubricant/liquid. Then as you slide across, anything that is higher than the majority of the surface gets sheared off the paint.
I don't think it shears, as I understand it will actually pull contaminants out of crevasses in the paint. Is this not true?
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Yes.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
Yes.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
You would probably need a microscope to gauge the difference. I would probably say the clay MAY be slightly better, but I certainly can't see it or feel it. If there is a difference, the ease of use and durability is well worth the trade-off to me.
I follow a similar routine to Silver. If I know I'm going to apply sealant/wax, I'll mix a bit more wash soap than usual in the bucket to aid lubricity for the mitt. I only use the mitt on days I'm going apply sealant, to start with a clean surface to enhance bonding.
I follow a similar routine to Silver. If I know I'm going to apply sealant/wax, I'll mix a bit more wash soap than usual in the bucket to aid lubricity for the mitt. I only use the mitt on days I'm going apply sealant, to start with a clean surface to enhance bonding.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
As gizzsdad mentioned prob have to give a ever so slight edge to a clay bar. But a huge edge to the sponge/mit in ease of use. Some professionals use a nano-disc that they attach to a polisher to make it even easier since they deal with a volume of cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VntIv869_0
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
As gizzsdad mentioned prob have to give a ever so slight edge to a clay bar. But a huge edge to the sponge/mit in ease of use. Some professionals use a nano-disc that they attach to a polisher to make it even easier since they deal with a volume of cars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VntIv869_0
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Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
Not sure if better but it's easier to use. I switched a couple years ago.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes.
Wash, rinse, soap panel again, glide sponge over surface. Then either wipe with a plush MF towel, rinse or soap panel again then rinse. Which ever method you prefer and depends on how much gunk is on the panel. Lower panels seem to be worse.
Using some Iron-X spray before hand does a great job of decontaminating the lower areas. Then clay afterwards. Helps reduce any micro-marring. You can buy it on AG with the sponge. A must on lighter colored cars in the rust belt to get rid of rail dust chemically.
Then wipe down with some rubbing alcohol so the sealant of your choice has a squeaky clean surface to bond to. Let sealant cure in garage over night/24 hrs.
Would you say the mitt cleans the surface better, or not as well as a clay bar?
Not sure if better but it's easier to use. I switched a couple years ago.
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