Virtus is right on that- LEDs, especially multi-watt, multi-chip 'beads' and COBs, at their rated voltage release a lot of heat and need to be mounted to a heatsink of some type so they don't burn out. The newer model LED chips, especially the ones clad in plastic composites, might be underdriven to control heat but they still need an 1/8-1/16" piece of aluminum to sink the heat into.
The so called 'filament' style LEDs are a strip of metal (originally glass) with a row of about 20?25? tiny LEDs mounted on them- with such a small amount of mass to back it, they'd HAVE to be very low power individual emitters.
Fun fact about filament style LEDs; they were originally a cool idea to increase the efficiency of the LED array, and that's why the emitters were originally mounted on glass rods. They called it chip-on-glass (as opposed to chip on board) and it was supposed to allow light emitted from the back of the chip as well as the front, supposedly saving wasted photon emission from heating the substrate instead.
But, in mass production, the Chinese LED manufacturers decided to mount them on strips of metal instead, and then coat the whole stick with phosphor resin. They are indeed nice to replace lower output candelabra bulbs where the filament is traditionally visible with the even distribution you like
Have put a few of them through the ringer too
Used them in an old school worklight, but dropping the light would always break the little stem inside that the LEDs mount to. Note the bent filaments mounted on metal, not glass. (still doesnt work bent though)
Here are poor representing pics of standard fixtures with short, diffuserless bulbs:
A double bulb unit, with one 3000K and one 5000K w/ frosted glass removed. Normally the bulb would be sticking out of the bottom.
Again, shorty bulb not sticking out of the bottom. What hits the frosted glass offers nice moderate omnidirectional scatter while the direct beam below gives a nice flood light (pics are sad and don't do justice)