Why not just use 0w oils?

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I choose 0W oils over 5W or 10W at each opportunity.

To answer your question though, the reason should be cost. I don't really price compare on the retail end so maybe I'm wrong, but I should think 0W oils are more expensive on the shelf. They are definitely more expensive to manufacture.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvoeric
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but... if a 0w30 oil is in theory, the same as a 10w30, why dont we just all use the 0w30?


More VII, so it won't be as shear stable. In the case of my Corvette, I don't need to worry about cold starts, and I want an oil that will stay solidly in grade, especially if I get a little bit of fuel dilution due to the direct injection. So I wouldn't consider a 0w30 there. In my Honda, I've had a problem with M1 0w20 thinning out too much for my liking as well, so I bought some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 for it's next interval to see if it maintains it's viscosity better.

BTW, welcome fellow Oakville resident!
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The 0W vs 10W aspect matters for oil burning engines. From what I've read on here, the lighter 0W may slip past worn rings and burn more easily compared to a 10W.
 
Originally Posted By: MotoTribologist
I choose 0W oils over 5W or 10W at each opportunity.

To answer your question though, the reason should be cost. I don't really price compare on the retail end so maybe I'm wrong, but I should think 0W oils are more expensive on the shelf. They are definitely more expensive to manufacture.
What benefits will I see with a 0W vs a 10W in Florida?
 
Patman- Have you had that M1 tested from your new Vette yet? You might want to look into a more robust oil if you really like the car and plan to keep it...
wink.gif


You think that M1 sheared in your Honda, what do you think its gonna do when you beat on that Vette? M1 isn't the oil it used to be, not even close...

Que the M1 fanboys...
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I was told burn-off is a consideration when using 0W oils. Their light weight makes them more susceptible to loss as a volatile. Given that the average motorist doesn't check their oil, and oil changes have been extended, there is a serious concern that many people would run their engine low on oil. Also for this same reason, 0W oils can only be produced as a synthetic to reduce this loss.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: MotoTribologist
I choose 0W oils over 5W or 10W at each opportunity.

To answer your question though, the reason should be cost. I don't really price compare on the retail end so maybe I'm wrong, but I should think 0W oils are more expensive on the shelf. They are definitely more expensive to manufacture.
What benefits will I see with a 0W vs a 10W in Florida?


Most likely you have a lower NOACK, less prone to shearing oil using a 10W in Florida. IMO a better choice for Florida.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: MotoTribologist
I choose 0W oils over 5W or 10W at each opportunity.

To answer your question though, the reason should be cost. I don't really price compare on the retail end so maybe I'm wrong, but I should think 0W oils are more expensive on the shelf. They are definitely more expensive to manufacture.
What benefits will I see with a 0W vs a 10W in Florida?

Probably nothing discernible
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
M1 isn't the oil it used to be, not even close...


Ahh yes, this bovine excrement again. I see you don't tire of rolling this steaming wheelbarrow load out whenever the chance presents itself
smirk.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
M1 isn't the oil it used to be, not even close...

Ahh yes, this bovine excrement again. I see you don't tire of rolling this steaming wheelbarrow load out whenever the chance presents itself
smirk.gif


Yep it’s just shark meat for the sharks. The “My brand is better than yours” argument is just plain childish.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
M1 isn't the oil it used to be, not even close...


Ahh yes, this bovine excrement again. I see you don't tire of rolling this steaming wheelbarrow load out whenever the chance presents itself
smirk.gif



Yeah, except it is partially true ...
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Patman- Have you had that M1 tested from your new Vette yet? You might want to look into a more robust oil if you really like the car and plan to keep it...
wink.gif


You think that M1 sheared in your Honda, what do you think its gonna do when you beat on that Vette? M1 isn't the oil it used to be, not even close...



I did test the factory fill after changing it at 1100 miles and it did thin out but I also had 2% fuel in the oil. I am going to run the current M1 for about 2k and then I am switching to M1 5w30 ESP.

FWIW, the regular M1 5w30 never thinned out on me in my 98 Corvette or my 2005 Corvette, so it is a robust formula that isn't prone to shearing. I just want a higher HTHS in my new Corvette since GM now recommends the new dexos2 certified M1 0w40 ESP. (and since I can't buy it yet, I'm trying 5w30 ESP instead)
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: mclasser
The 0W vs 10W aspect matters for oil burning engines. From what I've read on here, the lighter 0W may slip past worn rings and burn more easily compared to a 10W.



"Lighter?" Not necessarily so....

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1
Mobil1 AFE on left and regular Mobil1 on right:



Ofcourse there are exceptions, but generally speaking, most 0W-30 oils have a slightly lower Kinematic viscosity @ 100C than most 10W-30, 15W-30 or SAE 30 oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvoeric
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but... if a 0w30 oil is in theory, the same as a 10w30, why dont we just all use the 0w30?

Because Kinematic Viscosity is not just all we consider
wink.gif
 
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