SuperTech Synthetic 5w20 For Cleaning?

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I have a 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe with the 3.8 V6. I do extended OCI's and have UOA's that show everything is going well. The other day when changing the PCV I noticed the tip of it that scraped the inside of the valve cover during the process came out with what looked like sludge on it. Through the fill cap everything I can see looks totally fine, but I was considering running some of the SuperTech synthetic for a shorter OCI to see if that would do anything because it is pretty cheap and synthetic. Thoughts? I was also considering trying a K&N oil filter but don't know how that would stack up compared to a PureOne that I've been using with reasonable success according to UOA's.
 
What oil(s) have you been using till now?

I can't comment on ST but PP/PUP are regarded as good cleaning oils on here.
 
Purolators are infamous for tearing holes in them. Google the words: Purolator oil filter tear
and then select 'Images' on the google page to look at the frequent problems. High risk of getting holes, which is a no-no for oil filters these days.

Fram Ultra's are much, much better in about every possible way. Walmarts have them for cheap. or amazon, ebay, rockauto, wherever. Ultras hold the most dirt before clogging up. When cleaning, you might generate a lot of junk.

Put a thick SuperTech 10w40 there in warm TX right about now, and then put in a pint of SeaFoam, Kreen, or Gumout Multi-System Tune-Up. It will convert the 10w40 into a 10w30. Change in 2,000 miles or 2 months whichever comes first.
 
Many yrs ago I once used st synth oil in an old used 85 Bronco I bought. Since the synthetic was the same price as the conv. oil I thought I would try it. Upon checking the oil after 800 miles I found the oil to be black! I cursed that oil then for doing that in such a short period of time and I changed out the oil with conv. oil. I did not know this was a good thing. It was cleaning my engine duh!
 
Originally Posted By: FermeLaPorte
Sounds good to clean it up. You can also use diesel-branded engine oil


A 10w30 HDEO like Delo 400 … good price too …
 
If you suspect some sludge or varnish, go cheap with a Fram Extra Guard and Pennzoil conventional for a 3,000 mile interval. K&N filters don't get much love here, and it would be a waste of money for a cleanup interval.
 
K&N cheapened their oil filters a few years ago, without dropping the price and passing the savings on to the customer. They used to be made by Champ, and identical to the M1 filters. But since then, they outsourced production to Daewha, a Korean company that supplies to the Korean car companies. So now the filters are mostly made in Mexico and Korea.

Just recently, K&N shifted *some* production back to USA/Champ, but not all of them.

My choice for your primary oil filter would be Mahle. They make a great cartridge filter for that V6
smile.gif


But for a cleanup interval, even the cheapest filter will be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I have a 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe with the 3.8 V6. I do extended OCI's and have UOA's that show everything is going well. The other day when changing the PCV I noticed the tip of it that scraped the inside of the valve cover during the process came out with what looked like sludge on it. Through the fill cap everything I can see looks totally fine, but I was considering running some of the SuperTech synthetic for a shorter OCI to see if that would do anything because it is pretty cheap and synthetic. Thoughts? I was also considering trying a K&N oil filter but don't know how that would stack up compared to a PureOne that I've been using with reasonable success according to UOA's.


Open up a valve cover first to check if it's got any amount of sludge. What oil do you normally use?
 
Typical oils are not going to do significant cleaning. A question to ask yourself is how badly do you want to clean up the engine? How much extra money and hassle of extra oil changes are you willing accept? The answers will help in the selection of your approach.
 
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Originally Posted By: mclasser
What oil(s) have you been using till now?

I can't comment on ST but PP/PUP are regarded as good cleaning oils on here.


FOr the past 100k it has been 5w20 Castrol Edge EP or 5w20 Mobil 1 (regular, EP, AP). The sample flagged for iron was the Pennzoil Ultra.

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Purolators are infamous for tearing holes in them. Google the words: Purolator oil filter tear
and then select 'Images' on the google page to look at the frequent problems. High risk of getting holes, which is a no-no for oil filters these days.

Fram Ultra's are much, much better in about every possible way. Walmarts have them for cheap. or amazon, ebay, rockauto, wherever. Ultras hold the most dirt before clogging up. When cleaning, you might generate a lot of junk.

Put a thick SuperTech 10w40 there in warm TX right about now, and then put in a pint of SeaFoam, Kreen, or Gumout Multi-System Tune-Up. It will convert the 10w40 into a 10w30. Change in 2,000 miles or 2 months whichever comes first.


Fram doesn't make an Ultra for my vehicle, they're listed as fitting but I already tried, it is incorrect. Also, I see no reason to do anything other than 5w20 which has been showing good UOA's in the Texas heat this entire time. I am curious about the true safety and effectiveness of running SeaFoam in the oil, especially considering the relatively high loads I put it under cruising at high speeds on the toll roads and redlining it daily for good measure.

Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
If you suspect some sludge or varnish, go cheap with a Fram Extra Guard and Pennzoil conventional for a 3,000 mile interval. K&N filters don't get much love here, and it would be a waste of money for a cleanup interval.
It is about a $3 difference in the K&N filter, Amazon has them for just over $6 each and I've never tried them, wasn't sure how effective their filtering media was.

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
K&N cheapened their oil filters a few years ago, without dropping the price and passing the savings on to the customer. They used to be made by Champ, and identical to the M1 filters. But since then, they outsourced production to Daewha, a Korean company that supplies to the Korean car companies. So now the filters are mostly made in Mexico and Korea.

Just recently, K&N shifted *some* production back to USA/Champ, but not all of them.

My choice for your primary oil filter would be Mahle. They make a great cartridge filter for that V6
smile.gif


But for a cleanup interval, even the cheapest filter will be fine.


At $6 the K&N is cheaper than the OEM filter, which is a rebranded Mahle btw. Also pretty sure the Wix filter is [censored] near the same.

I was trying to avoid removing the valve cover because it looked to be somewhat of a pain, but I might have to.
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Put a thick SuperTech 10w40 there in warm TX right about now, and then put in a pint of SeaFoam, Kreen, or Gumout Multi-System Tune-Up. It will convert the 10w40 into a 10w30. Change in 2,000 miles or 2 months whichever comes first.

Fram doesn't make an Ultra for my vehicle, they're listed as fitting but I already tried, it is incorrect. Also, I see no reason to do anything other than 5w20 which has been showing good UOA's in the Texas heat this entire time. I am curious about the true safety and effectiveness of running SeaFoam in the oil, especially considering the relatively high loads I put it under cruising at high speeds on the toll roads and redlining it daily for good measure.
For the cleaning interval, a short interval, really any cheap filter from Walmart will do. I see your car uses a cartridge, and its hard to go wrong with a cheapo cartridge for those. I'd use a Mobil 1 M1C-255 Extended Performance Oil Filter AFTER the cleaning, but a cheap Walmart-something DURING the cleaning.

As for redlining it or going fast, notice I indicated use of a thick 10w40 with the Kreen/Seafoam/GumoutMSTU precisely because the overall mixture will thin down to a 30 weight. For summer use only. The effective 30 weight will be plenty of viscosity protection for your engine. Oil film thickness when hydrodynamic goes up as visc goes up, and 30 is plenty here. The Kreen/SeaFoam/GumoutMSTU won't interfere with the tribofilm. (After the cleaning interval, it'd be fine to use an xw30 or xw20 of course; no additives or cleaners needed.)
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
What do you mean by the Pennzoil Ultra was “flagged for iron”?


I use the word "flagged" loosely, it is the only bold number on there along with the SUS and cSt viscosities.
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Put a thick SuperTech 10w40 there in warm TX right about now, and then put in a pint of SeaFoam, Kreen, or Gumout Multi-System Tune-Up. It will convert the 10w40 into a 10w30. Change in 2,000 miles or 2 months whichever comes first.

Fram doesn't make an Ultra for my vehicle, they're listed as fitting but I already tried, it is incorrect. Also, I see no reason to do anything other than 5w20 which has been showing good UOA's in the Texas heat this entire time. I am curious about the true safety and effectiveness of running SeaFoam in the oil, especially considering the relatively high loads I put it under cruising at high speeds on the toll roads and redlining it daily for good measure.
For the cleaning interval, a short interval, really any cheap filter from Walmart will do. I see your car uses a cartridge, and its hard to go wrong with a cheapo cartridge for those. I'd use a Mobil 1 M1C-255 Extended Performance Oil Filter AFTER the cleaning, but a cheap Walmart-something DURING the cleaning.

As for redlining it or going fast, notice I indicated use of a thick 10w40 with the Kreen/Seafoam/GumoutMSTU precisely because the overall mixture will thin down to a 30 weight. For summer use only. The effective 30 weight will be plenty of viscosity protection for your engine. Oil film thickness when hydrodynamic goes up as visc goes up, and 30 is plenty here. The Kreen/SeaFoam/GumoutMSTU won't interfere with the tribofilm. (After the cleaning interval, it'd be fine to use an xw30 or xw20 of course; no additives or cleaners needed.)


Also, the M1 filter is like $20 so there's no way I am buying that.
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I use the word "flagged" loosely, it is the only bold number on there along with the SUS and cSt viscosities.
You said iron was flagged, when actually it was aluminum. Hence somebody got confused.

Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
Also, the M1 filter is like $20 so there's no way I am buying that.
With those cartridge oil filters, I don't think you can go too wrong. About the best you can do is go with Wix or NAPAgold since they mix in glass fibers with their paper filter media. And not high priced like the rip-off Mobil1 filter is.
 
I have a hard time believing that you have sludge issues with the engine considering -- the Castrol and Mobil Synthetics you were using prior for many many miles??? That is why PCVs need replaced in the first place.


Dale
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17


Also, the M1 filter is like $20 so there's no way I am buying that.


LOL $9.97 at Walmart's everyday price and there is currently a rebate on them. You just have to read a little more and stay on the top of your game!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
Also, the M1 filter is like $20 so there's no way I am buying that.
LOL $9.97 at Walmart's everyday price and there is currently a rebate on them. You just have to read a little more and stay on the top of your game!
You're the one who needs to "read" a little more.. LOL.... Walmart.com does not show that particular M1C-255 cartridge at all. .... rockauto.com has it for $19 .... google shopping shows the same.... etc. The $17 rebate is for 5-qts M1 oil & a filter together, not bad though, although if not at walmart, the oil is too expensive to start with.
Where have you found it for $10 ???
 
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