Looking for Advice: Rust Inhibitor for Cast Iron

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I'm about to dust off my wood working machines. My shop is in my garage and I am up on a decent size hill. We get a good amount of moisture and I get surface rust on my cast iron tables. I will neutralize the current layer of rust and get the tables all pretty and slick. Paste wax just won't hold up and I don't want to be waxing the tables constantly.

I used T9 Boshield before and it is an OK performer but nothing to write home about. Would Fluid Film be a good applicationf or this? Never used it. Any other suggestions?
 
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black paint?
 
I wouldn't use Fluid Film - too oily. That lanolin/oil will get into your wood and ruin any future finish. Bottom of my Tundra's frame was still oily/greasy two years after applying Fluid Film.

Boeshield is a good choice, so is paste wax...I would just clean/wax the machines more often...

Now, if you're willing to put up with the sheep smell, and clean the surfaces thoroughly before use...well, then I suppose Fluid Film would be OK...
 
I love me some fluid film, but it would be possible that it would rub off on your wood pieces and affect finishing.
 
I just use used ATF.

Just use an old rag to wipe the oily (actually dusty) surfaces before tool use.

Oil again when done. Pretty easy.

The only "maintenance free" option is to just have them powdercoated.
 
Originally Posted By: ridgerunner
Rub some rendered bear grease on it from time to time lol.


My grandfather always used skunk fat to protect battery terminals from corrosion.

No, I am not making that up!
 
Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
I use a small quantity of WD-40 on my table saw bed periodically and never have a problem with rust.


Which is fine if you're doing carpentry...but if you're ever going to finish that wood, the WD-40 gets deep into the wood, causing uneven staining, fisheyes, and a host of finishing problems. I would stay away from any oil for machines that will ever handle wood to be finished. Framing, etc. is fine, but not for fine woodworking...
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: ridgerunner
Rub some rendered bear grease on it from time to time lol.


My grandfather always used skunk fat to protect battery terminals from corrosion.

No, I am not making that up!
Hmm where do you get skunk fat???????

How about a clear coat paint?
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: ridgerunner
Rub some rendered bear grease on it from time to time lol.


My grandfather always used skunk fat to protect battery terminals from corrosion.

No, I am not making that up!
Hmm where do you get skunk fat???????

How about a clear coat paint?


He waites outside the liposuction for skunks office in beverly hills...duh lol.
 
Which paste wax have you used? I've have great luck with this one:

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I don't even buff it off. I dip an old towel into it and saturate, then give everything a wipe down and let it dry.
 
Rub them with aluminium foil when you are cleaning them up. It will have some anti-corrosion effect even in the absence of a wax, fat or oil binder (which might be a problem for your wood finishes).

The aluminium dust is black so you might need to wipe away excess with a paper towel or similar, if you are using clear finishes.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Which paste wax have you used? I've have great luck with this one:

300.JPG


I don't even buff it off. I dip an old towel into it and saturate, then give everything a wipe down and let it dry.

While at Ft. Leonard Wood, MO. for basic training, we had to use Johnson's Wax with an electric buffer to keep the barracks linoleum tiled floor mirror shined. When the DI's weren't looking, we would set it on fire to make the floor shine even better.
OP, why not use BALLISTOL?
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Sounds like I'm looking for a utopia product. Like the old adage, you have to put in your time. Maybe I need to just suck it up and put some more time into it.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
I just use used ATF.

Just use an old rag to wipe the oily (actually dusty) surfaces before tool use.

Oil again when done. Pretty easy.

The only "maintenance free" option is to just have them powdercoated.




This is what a lot of racecar shops put on the headers that are not on an engine at the time. Probably not a good idea on woodworking machinery, tho.

Have you tried Crisbee?

I have had great luck with Boeshield. I put 2-3 coats on, tho.
 
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