2011 Tundra Oil Filter Torque

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Changed the oil in my Tundra today and for whatever reason, I just realized I over torqued the cartridge filter housing. From everything I've read the housing is supposed to be torqued to 20 lb-ft. I looked at the oil drain plug torque and went to 30 lb-ft. Should I:
a:) Not worry about it and fix it in 6 months when I change again
b:) Try loosening the housing and torque to spec, or;
c:) Remove the cartridge housing, replace the o-ring and torque to proper spec?

Thanks for the advice in advance.
 
As it heat cycles, the filter housing will only get tighter - keep that in mind when you have to change it next.
 
Originally Posted By: Charlie2015
As it heat cycles, the filter housing will only get tighter - keep that in mind when you have to change it next.


Yeah that is what I was thinking. I'm just wondering if I can get by with loosening and then torquing again?
 
Just asking.
Why would heat cycles tighten a filter housing and not loosen?
Thanks.

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015
As it heat cycles, the filter housing will only get tighter - keep that in mind when you have to change it next.
 
I've read on a couple of posts folks have used the gaskets up to 3x on a Toyota housing, so loosening and retorquing properly would be my call.

Isn't there a mark or a metal tab on the side of the housing?
 
I woudn't do anything. Just wait until your next oil change and eat your Wheaties beforehand.
 
I just remember: 30, 20, 10.
30 ft/lbs drain plug
20 ft/lbs filter housing
10 ft/lbs filter housing cap

Most drain plugs are around 30 ft/lbs

My vote is to not worry about it. When your filter cap is torqued to 1000 ft/lbs because your gorilla dad helped you and you have to use all your force with a 24” breaker bar and vice and start damaging the plastic housing, that’s when it’s time to worry. I could’ve left it but I couldn’t sleep with that small oring on there for a third oil change
 
I can only say the way I do it by "hand" torquing. Turn it by hand until it feels firm but not totally compressed. Then check for leaks for the next few days just in case. This always worked for me. Biggest problem I've known, people leaving the old seal behind then trying to screw the new filter on top of the old seal. Same goes for drain plug, I hand tighten it until it feels just right: Never leaked or stripped on me. But you need to clean the seat around teh drain hole as well around the drain plug to make sure there's no grit interference.
 
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In years past I have had to drive a long screwdriver through the spin on filter on my late Aunt's car . To get the filter off . Also tried a BIG pair of channel locks , but could not really do much but crush it .

First time I changed oil on our 2006 Buick Lacrosse , I could not locate a 6 point 13mm box end wrench . After rounding it off with a 12 point , I ended up trying my largest vice grips & pounding on the handle . Three times . I installed a new drain plug & bought a 13mm Craftsman combination wrench .
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Loosen and re-torque so you will sleep better. ed


You hit the nail on the head. I think that is my plan. I have another filter and o-rings on hand just in case it develops a leak.
 
30 pound/feet ain't that bad. The filter cap wrench with the slots for the filter canister is a great buy.
If you re-torque the canister, please post your results.
You should be fine.
 
If it isn't leaking wait till next OC to address. New O-ring at that point.

It wont get tighter. Folks are thinking of spin on rubber base gasket that adhere to the machined aluminum or CI filter boss.

My spin on filters have been found LOOSE at 5k miles and I give them a final tug with a strap/band wrench.
 
I wouldn't worry. New o-rings come with each new filter. I always replace them.

I also have never used a torque wrench on my oil filter cartridge on my Tundra and Sequoia. I get it tight.

Yes, most of the time, it is fairly tight to remove also.

I've had an oil filter seep/leak. Once. I haven't had one leak since. There's a reason.
 
First 20 yrs was bug maintenance No help whatsoever for oil filters. Then Fords. 2hrs in, I was drifting the base off with a big screwdrver and a claw hammer. Mastered the hand tight install on Jeeps and BMWS Snug, then a 1/4 turn for both plug and spin on filter. Never had to resort to extremes on either. Heat cycling loosens hose clamps, and nails for sure. I always attributed it to the counter clock wise rotation of the crank keeping stuff snug. School me please. Prob'bly both
grin2.gif


So why don't Hondas that turn clockwise loosen right hand screws?
 
The oil filters on most Toyotas are not spin-on. They are the German-style cartridge filters. The cartridge holder can get tight IME.
 
Well I could not stand it any longer. Got off work today and decided to put the truck on some ramps to loosen the filter housing. Dropped the skid plate, loosened the housing, and torqued to 20 lb-ft. Ran the truck at idle for about 5 minutes and did not observe any leaks. Buttoned everything back up and called it a day.

Which brings me to a another point. Why in the world did Toyota not make a filter access panel in that skid plate is beyond me. I think my next project is going to be fabricating an access panel for filter access. Anyone here done this?
 
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