They get the same treatment as most of the other steel, rub with aluminium using sunflower oil as a binder.
I avoid worrying about "torque variations" by not using a torque wrench. I use polythene on the threads, plus a spot of grease if I have some handy.
The remains of the polythene are visible on these studs but I replaced it when I put the drum back on. The wheels nuts are the same colour as the drum (don't think I have any pictures). but they see a bit more wear so maybe show a bit of rust around the edges.
Just place a dab of anti-seize on each stud and burnish it in with a paper towel. Good for life. What make of vehicle is that brake drum off of? Looks like it has a radial ball bearing.
That'd work too, but you can't get antiseize here. I have a little aluminium stuff but I'd have to go to Japan to get more, so I'm not putting it on wheel studs, and I'm certainly not rubbing a hub with it.
The polythene works fine as an antiseize, is freely available, and should last forever, though with wheel studs longevity isn't really an issue. I suspect it also has a mild threadlocking effect, nyloc stylee.
Car is a Daihatsu Skywing, local variant of the Charade.
Incidentally, in case it isn't obvious, the bag, oil and shake technique described above wouldn't be a good idea with veg oil, though it is a good way of treating small parts.
Though grease on the threads MIGHT keep them free, you REALLY don't want veg oil on the threads of anything you might want to take apart in the future.
Been there, tried that, wish I hadn't.