OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,794
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.



Before finding the wheels above I ordered a set of lug nuts online from mazdashop.ca run by Scarboro Mazda, a dealer in the city. Little did I know the wheels would include another set of lug nuts and also a set of wheel locks.






The lug nut on the left ordered online appears to be an aftermarket part distributed by Fastco, of Fast Wheels, PN 60022A. The one on the right was included with the wheels, taken off of a car before delivery to the wife of a salesman at Airport Mazda of Toronto, who upgraded to a set of Mazda accessory black wheels and lugs. I never even bothered comparing the two until today. Barely even looked at them until now. The ones ordered are past the return date.

My first instinct is to stick with the shorter OEM lug nut. Any advantage to the other one or should I just sell them off?
 
Check the fit first. The factory ones might be too short. Also notice the ordered ones have a much more robust seating area. Looks to me you might have to use a different wrench size for the ordered one. Do the test fit and you’ll know which one you want to keep.
 
The ones on the left look like they have more thread, more universal longer chamfer too. I would use the right if they came with the wheels. The steelies I bought came with their own lug nuts for the SE and that is what they used. I received the take offs bagged and a bag full of the lugs.
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.



Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.
 
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.

Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.

When someone buys a new car and immediately removes the wheels/tires they're called "take-offs."
 
The ones on the right look just like the OE's on the Mazda3 in my sig.
The ones on the left look as if they may,
wink.gif
"Look Real Sharp" sticking out just that little bit. Try both!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.

Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.

When someone buys a new car and immediately removes the wheels/tires they're called "take-offs."


So second-hand but unused wheels. OK, makes sense, just never heard (or noticed) the phrase before.
 
Originally Posted By: joegreen
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it


You need a min of 1.5x of the stud/bolt diameter for max strength. For a 10 x 1.25 mm stud it would be about 9 threads to achieve the 75% minimum.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: joegreen
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it


You need a min of 1.5x of the stud/bolt diameter for max strength. For a 10 x 1.25 mm stud it would be about 9 threads to achieve the 75% minimum.


I'd like to see citations to your sources. My experience differs from both of you, (between). In a prior job, we performed tension tests on fasteners for our production. We found that with high strength fasteners (socket head capscrews) less than 1 diameter was required in a conventional steel "nut" to break the male threaded part in tension. About 1.5 diameters were required in a 6061/6063 aluminum nut. These capscrews were in the 180,000 to 200,000 psi tensile strength, LIKELY higher than wheel studs. What are typical wheel stud specs; I'd guess 110,000 psi?
 
Machinist handbook. Its just general info not this material and that material, no need to nitpick it. A machinist forum would be the right place if you want to get into the technicalities of it.

For guys who DIY on their cars 1.5 times the bolt diameter in a blind threaded hole or stud and 100% through the nut is a safe depth for most fasteners found in vehicles, its that simple.
3 threads on a 10 mm stud could be dangerous that the only reason I posted it, the lug nut is where the threads would pull.
 
Yah. Having had a wheel or 2 get loose, my bad, I'd want all the threads I can get. Stuff happens. Yesterday, I used a chain comprised of sections of chain bolted together with 12x60mm ex BMW UCA bolts. For ease I only spun the nuts down to the Ny-lok . I pulled over a 40' tall weed. A second growth choke cherry
 
Originally Posted By: Traction
The short ones are MUCH harder to get started over the threads with your finger tips.


I usually put the nuts in the socket with a 3" extension. Helps me get them started.
 
Every time anyone in my family gets a new or new to them car, one of the first things I do is inspect the lug nuts. If they're those junky shiny tin crimped over a lug nut to appear chrome, they get tossed out and replaced with McGuard. It's no fun needing to get a wheel off a car and have those cheesy factory nuts fold up inside the socket.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top