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#4711783 - 03/30/18 06:25 PM OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket
silverrat Offline


Registered: 01/09/09
Posts: 1593
Loc: Ontario
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.



Before finding the wheels above I ordered a set of lug nuts online from mazdashop.ca run by Scarboro Mazda, a dealer in the city. Little did I know the wheels would include another set of lug nuts and also a set of wheel locks.






The lug nut on the left ordered online appears to be an aftermarket part distributed by Fastco, of Fast Wheels, PN 60022A. The one on the right was included with the wheels, taken off of a car before delivery to the wife of a salesman at Airport Mazda of Toronto, who upgraded to a set of Mazda accessory black wheels and lugs. I never even bothered comparing the two until today. Barely even looked at them until now. The ones ordered are past the return date.

My first instinct is to stick with the shorter OEM lug nut. Any advantage to the other one or should I just sell them off?





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#4711785 - 03/30/18 06:28 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
bdcardinal Online   content


Registered: 06/03/05
Posts: 10814
Loc: Santa Barbara, CA
The lugnut on the right is the factory B002-37-160B lugnut.
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#4711792 - 03/30/18 06:52 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Mr Nice Offline


Registered: 09/12/04
Posts: 20931
Loc: Orlando, FL
I would only use the factory lug nuts.

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#4711793 - 03/30/18 06:56 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Trav Offline


Registered: 11/20/06
Posts: 18268
Loc: MA, Mittelfranken.de
+1 Keep the factory ones and sell the others.
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#4711799 - 03/30/18 07:05 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Snagglefoot Online   content


Registered: 12/31/17
Posts: 1322
Loc: Alberta
Check the fit first. The factory ones might be too short. Also notice the ordered ones have a much more robust seating area. Looks to me you might have to use a different wrench size for the ordered one. Do the test fit and you’ll know which one you want to keep.

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#4711802 - 03/30/18 07:08 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
andyd Offline


Registered: 09/25/04
Posts: 6894
Loc: Marshfield , MA
The ones on the left look like they have more thread, more universal longer chamfer too. I would use the right if they came with the wheels. The steelies I bought came with their own lug nuts for the SE and that is what they used. I received the take offs bagged and a bag full of the lugs.
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#4711810 - 03/30/18 07:30 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Blkstanger Offline


Registered: 08/13/11
Posts: 1903
Loc: Lakeside, CA
I have actually had better luck with after market lug nuts.
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#4711841 - 03/30/18 08:21 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Ducked Offline


Registered: 10/25/12
Posts: 4081
Loc: Taiwan
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.



Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.

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#4711925 - 03/30/18 09:53 PM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
joegreen Offline


Registered: 03/10/13
Posts: 721
Loc: NY
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it
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#4712015 - 03/31/18 02:03 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: Ducked]
rooflessVW Offline


Registered: 12/24/11
Posts: 3682
Loc: North Carolina
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.

Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.

When someone buys a new car and immediately removes the wheels/tires they're called "take-offs."
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#4712023 - 03/31/18 02:37 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Char Baby Offline


Registered: 05/25/05
Posts: 9776
Loc: ROCHESTER, NY
The ones on the right look just like the OE's on the Mazda3 in my sig.
The ones on the left look as if they may, wink "Look Real Sharp" sticking out just that little bit. Try both!


Edited by Char Baby (03/31/18 02:37 AM)
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#4712078 - 03/31/18 07:02 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: silverrat]
Traction Offline


Registered: 06/04/13
Posts: 960
Loc: iowa
The short ones are MUCH harder to get started over the threads with your finger tips.
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#4712100 - 03/31/18 07:39 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: rooflessVW]
Ducked Offline


Registered: 10/25/12
Posts: 4081
Loc: Taiwan
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: silverrat
A few months ago I decided to buy a set of OEM take off wheels to mount my three season tires on.

Dont all car wheels "take off"?

If not, I suppose that might explain my having trouble with some of them.

When someone buys a new car and immediately removes the wheels/tires they're called "take-offs."


So second-hand but unused wheels. OK, makes sense, just never heard (or noticed) the phrase before.

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#4712173 - 03/31/18 09:09 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: joegreen]
Trav Offline


Registered: 11/20/06
Posts: 18268
Loc: MA, Mittelfranken.de
Originally Posted By: joegreen
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it


You need a min of 1.5x of the stud/bolt diameter for max strength. For a 10 x 1.25 mm stud it would be about 9 threads to achieve the 75% minimum.
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#4712292 - 03/31/18 11:32 AM Re: OEM lug nut vs. aftermarket [Re: Trav]
George Bynum Offline


Registered: 12/18/04
Posts: 278
Loc: Greenville SC
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: joegreen
You only need around 3 threads to engage the stud for the nut to safely reach it's max clamping force so if the shorter one fits use it


You need a min of 1.5x of the stud/bolt diameter for max strength. For a 10 x 1.25 mm stud it would be about 9 threads to achieve the 75% minimum.


I'd like to see citations to your sources. My experience differs from both of you, (between). In a prior job, we performed tension tests on fasteners for our production. We found that with high strength fasteners (socket head capscrews) less than 1 diameter was required in a conventional steel "nut" to break the male threaded part in tension. About 1.5 diameters were required in a 6061/6063 aluminum nut. These capscrews were in the 180,000 to 200,000 psi tensile strength, LIKELY higher than wheel studs. What are typical wheel stud specs; I'd guess 110,000 psi?

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