Can I run dex6 in my th400.

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Maybe this will help explain what I'm trying to convey here Joe?

*Remove the apply pin & cushion spring from the piston.
*Install the piston in the case all the way to bottom.
*Measure & record the depth with a dial caliper. (Mark the point on the Case where your taking the measurement as the the bore is machined at a angle)

*Install the Apply Pin back into the Piston with the Washer & E-Clip. Leave the Cushion Spring & Spring Seat off for this test!
*Install the Piston back in the case along with your test tool, Tighten the check bolt to 55 inch pounds.
*Force the Piston down against the Washer.
*Take another Piston depth measurement at the same spot as before.

Subtract the two readings from each other......This will give you exactly how much piston travel you have before the Piston bottoms out against the case.

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Holy moly I hope you didn't draw that all for me. It's much appreciated. The distance to be calculated came out to .182".
 
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It would seem you have PLENTY of "wear" room before the piston bottoms, Goes to show the variance in the machining & some techniques DO NOT account for this!

One last test before you continue......

*Remove the Pin from Servo Piston.
*Install the 2nd Accumulator Piston in the Servo Piston (The large Accumulator sealing ring will help hold the accumulator piston in place)
*Install the Servo Piston in the Case & push it to bottom.
*Take another depth measurement.

If this depth measurement is now LESS than the "bottomed" piston measurement you took earlier Subtract the 2 readings, Then Subtract that from .182".
 
Ok. I got it because the 2nd accumulator Piston might limit the travel of the accumulator Piston. I'll try that tomorrow.
 
The 2nd accumulator Piston does not change when the reverse apply Piston bottoms out. I can shake the case and hear the 2nd accumulator Piston sliding in and out while the reverse apply Piston is bottomed out in it's bore. I Also verified the the 2nd accumulator Piston does not change when the reverse apply Piston bottoms out with a dial indicator.

I made this little indent in the reverse apply Piston so I could use the dial indicator in the same spot every time.
 
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I put the extendo pin on today. Had to grind the ridges off the pin to get it to fit. The instructions said to grind them off.


 
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Originally Posted By: novadude
This has been an interesting thread to follow. Any updates? Is it done yet?
Not yet. Im still working on it slowly between school and work. My plan is to get it done before july 4th.
 
So I have a question about my governor tubes. I was looking at them today and where it bends it looks almost like someone took a hammer to the tubes and made some flat spots on the bend. Do I need new governor tubes? Its hard to tell from the photo but its definately not a smooth round radius.

 
Don't worry about that, Just make sure they seat in the case & the governor thimble filter is in place. Tweak them as needed. Finding a nice virgin set is getting harder & harder!
 
I have seen some nice sets on eBay for$25 or less. Should I get one of those? What do the governor tubes do and how would the decreased bend diameter affect the volume of oil flowing?
 
Drive range oil is routed through one of the tubes to the governor valve, Governor oil is sent through the other tube (Pressure being proportional to vehicle speed) to feed the shift valves.

The tubes would have to be almost completely collapsed for Governor function to be affected.
 
Alright im back to working on the transmission again. Im going back and rereading some of the posts to see where i left off on setting the reverse band apply length.
 
So the problem im having is figuring out the reverse band apply pin length. clinebarger you said that .125" is a good number to shoot for for apply pin travel. Here is my issue. My apply pin travel from fully compressed to fully extended is around .176". With the pin at its current length i can turn the entire planetary setup by hand but it has a lot of drag on it. If i changed the apply pin travel length to .125" i dont think i could even turn the reaction carrier.
 
Im going to recheck the travel left tomorrow just to verify but that is what it was last i checked it. It just seems if i make the pin any longer i wont even be able to turn the reaction carrier. And yes the band is properly seated on the pins and the pins have not moved in the case.
 
Rear Band drag is normal on a fresh unit! The ONLY way to eliminate the initial drag & still have reverse in a few 1000 miles is to run a Servo Cover Spacer!
 
So the trans is 95% completed. I looked all over my house and i cannot find spring 305 and spring 78. Its been so long since i took it apart i cant remember is they were there or not on disassembly. I want to buy some springs off ebay. Are these springs all the same or do they come in different strengths for different applications?



 
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