Whirlpool dryer won't start

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Whirlpool dryer, made in 1999, model LER7646EQ2

It dried a load of clothes on the automatic cycle. Cycle ended normally, started & stopped a couple more times on the Finish Guard setting until clothes were removed. Next load put in, pushed Start button, and would not start.

-Dryer is getting power.
-Start switch tests good with ohmmeter.
-Will not start on Automatic or Manual (timed) cycles. I can hear the timer running (ticking), but the dryer will not start.
-Door switch is good.
-Both thermal fuses tested good with an ohmmeter.

I'm a trained electronics tech, but have practically no appliance experience. Any help appreciated!
 
Went back downstairs to mess with it, and found a schematic inside. It showed a table to test the various terminals on the timer. Looks like the problem is the timer. Thanks for the replies!
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Went back downstairs to mess with it, and found a schematic inside. It showed a table to test the various terminals on the timer. Looks like the problem is the timer. Thanks for the replies!


The timer might still be available but will probably not be cheap depending upon the number of functions the dryer has. There may be companies that sell rebuilt timers. I bought a rebuilt control panel for an oven from a company that rebuilt them. It was no longer available from the manufacturer.

They do some crazy things with timers. Some will cut power to timer motor until the dry sensor tells it things are dry and timer can advance toward shutoff.

Take the time to vacuum the guts and maybe replace belt.

New dryer might be good investment. Or a new-in-box one from CraigsList.
 
Originally Posted By: csandste
Nineteen years on a dryer. You're blessed. Your next one won't last that long.




Sad to hear this. We usually got 30 years plus on a dryer. Nothing but junk sold now.
 
How is the overall condition? That would dictate my plans. Old Whirlpools were good appliances, If the rest of the dryer is in good shape, I'd fix it. My 2002 ish dryer works great but the interior plastic is beat. If anything major goes, sayronaya
 
Those older dryers can be kept going forever. Not much to them, easy to work on. I'm pretty sure the dryers at the Whirlpool store are built just like yours. I know they hadn't changed between 1971 and 2013. You are overqualified to work on this dryer zrxk and know way more than needed. I understand that you are referring to the run thermostat and high limit thermostat when you say "thermal fuses." There is a "not resettable" thermal fuse in the motor circuitry. No sure where it is but wold guess at motor. I believe those dryers with the wrinkle guard feature(your finish guard) have a pulse timer that differs from the regular timer. Also remember a power resistor in the timer for the electric dryers used to get 120 to the timer and other components.
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I discovered early on that appliances are hand assembled. They are "idiot proofed" as a result. The female push ons are sized differently so that they can only connect to a single male. Small engine carbs are built this way too. Cars' engine bays wiring and hoses follow a similar logic for a different reason. The wiring harnesses are constructed with almost zero extra length. Within a very small area there is the right connection. When I swapped engines on a Jeep, I tagged every wire end as I disconnected it. Totally unnecessary. Honda, BMW and Ford use this scheme.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
I discovered early on that appliances are hand assembled. They are "idiot proofed" as a result. The female push ons are sized differently so that they can only connect to a single male. Small engine carbs are built this way too. Cars' engine bays wiring and hoses follow a similar logic for a different reason. The wiring harnesses are constructed with almost zero extra length. Within a very small area there is the right connection. When I swapped engines on a Jeep, I tagged every wire end as I disconnected it. Totally unnecessary. Honda, BMW and Ford use this scheme.
No matter to what lengths manufacturers go to murphy proof their products, someone in the field will find a way to defeat the design, guaranteed.
 
Did you check the drive belt? In Whirlpool dryers, if the belt breaks, a switch will disconnect the 120V feed from the timer to prevent the heating element or burner from a potentially hazardous situation.

The part is cheap - taking apart the dryer is a little bit of a chore. And it's a good chance to vacuum out the ductwork.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Did you check the drive belt? In Whirlpool dryers, if the belt breaks, a switch will disconnect the 120V feed from the timer to prevent the heating element or burner from a potentially hazardous situation.

The part is cheap - taking apart the dryer is a little bit of a chore. And it's a good chance to vacuum out the ductwork.
I've had Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers for decades and don't recall the switch you are referring to. Never have seen such a switch on a wiring schematic. Where is that switch? Regards
 
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