3 Way Switch Wiring Help

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Setup: Two Switches for one light, one downstairs and one upstairs in a stairwell.

Old Switch Wiring (black is in common of switch)( same type of switch upstairs)

https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dn9uW.jpg

New Switch: Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor]switch, 2-Amp, Single-Pole, White https://homedepot.app.link/MNlN0tjnwL

Wiring:

Manual Diagram: https://i.imgur.com/ztMmcYW.png

https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJwdG.jpg

So here is the interesting part

With upstairs switch down, black wire from wall to green of new switch causes the new switch to click/switch but no lights

If the switch upstairs is up then the earth grounding wire (to the new switches green wire) works(light turns on) (when upstairs switch is down it doesn't light up)

If I tie the earth ground and black wires together and use the switch up top, it trips the circuit breaker.

Any ideas?
 
Last edited:
Look up a wiring schematic, figure out which wires are which . The new switch seem like the wrong switch
 
If you replace a 3 way switch with a single pole switch , then it does not go smooth . Why would you expect it to .
 
You have the wrong switch. Right in the description, it's "for lights controlled from one location", so it's not a 3-way. Ground wires ONLY go to grounds, tying them to live wires is what tripped your breaker. Sounds like perhaps you should hire an electrician who knows what he's doing.
 
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I think you need this one: MS-OPS5MH-WH

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Maest...MH-WH/203202146


Thanks, I just came to that same conclusion

Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
You have the wrong switch. Right in the description, it's "for lights controlled from one location", so it's not a 3-way. Ground wires ONLY go to grounds, tying them to live wires is what tripped your breaker. Sounds like perhaps you should hire an electrician who knows what he's doing.


Thanks, I will get the correct switch.
 
You can NOT use 2 of these motion sensors on a 3-way switch. You can use 1 motion sensor switch and 1 standard 3-way mechanical and that would work. You can call Lutron, they can help you achieve what you want but it going to be additional cost to your project.
 
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Sounds like perhaps you should hire an electrician who knows what he's doing.

Some people like myself learn by experience. Can't be an expert by only reading, so if you don't try how will you learn?
 
Yous pays yous money & yous makes yous choices .

I could bend your ear about safety and protecting you home / investment .

But , in stead , best of luck .

Wyr
God bless

PS I have over 35 years in the trade .
 
A three-way SW has four terminals:
1. Line (black)
2. Neutral (white)
3. Traveler (red)
4. Ground (bare copper)

The light is wired in the traveler leg, between the two SW.
 
Never ever interconnect the bare / green ground wire system with any other wires. Ground wires are only to be connected to each other and to designated ground points on the devices and fixtures.

This is something that should not be learned by experience.
 
When I was faced with this task, I gathered all the information I could, such as the wiring diagram of how it's supposed to work. I used my multimeter to find where there is continuity and the hot wire, and got familiar with the light fixture, wiring, and switches. Once it made sense in my mind and in the sketches, I hooked everything up properly. It worked the first time.

I'm also proud that I was able to wire a dimmer switch into a 4-way setup, and have it work the first time without fireworks.
 
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Any ideas?


What are you trying to accomplish exactly?

Contrary to what most have said, you can wire it to work.
But maybe not how you intend.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
A three-way SW has four terminals:
1. Line (black)
2. Neutral (white)
3. Traveler (red)
4. Ground (bare copper)

The light is wired in the traveler leg, between the two SW.


You sir are wrong as to wiring on a 3-way switch . There are 3 screw terminals , plus yoy may or may not have a green terminals or green ground wire . Two of the screw terminals will be same color , say brass . One is a different color , say silver / shiny " white " or even DARK .

The green or bare wire is earth ground .

In practice , you can not depend on the other colors being a specific designation . If a white is connected to the switch , it most assuredly NOT a NEUTRIAL !

What ever color the 2 wires are , that go to the 2 same colored screws , they are travelers . If that 3-way is feed hot at that switch , the wire connected to the different colored screw , is the hot . Otherwise , that wire is the switch leg .

A " standard mechanical " 3-way switch does not use a neutral , even though a neutral may be present in the switch box . Some dimmers or motion switches may use a neutral to make the electronics work .

If mercury switches are still made , the switch must be vertical for things to work correctly . If it is not , say hanging by the wires , things do not work correctly .
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
Never ever interconnect the bare / green ground wire system with any other wires. Ground wires are only to be connected to each other and to designated ground points on the devices and fixtures.

This is something that should not be learned by experience.



But often is ! :-(
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
A three-way SW has four terminals:
1. Line (black)
2. Neutral (white)
3. Traveler (red)
4. Ground (bare copper)

The light is wired in the traveler leg, between the two SW.


Wouldn't it be more accurate to say power goes in switch A, then has a 50/50 shot of being on either black or red to the other switch, which then has a 50/50 shot of sending the "correct" line out its input/output screw which will be black again?
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
A three-way SW has four terminals:
1. Line (black)
2. Neutral (white)
3. Traveler (red)
4. Ground (bare copper)

The light is wired in the traveler leg, between the two SW.
You sir are wrong as to wiring on a 3-way switch . There are 3 screw terminals , plus yoy may or may not have a green terminals or green ground wire . Two of the screw terminals will be same color , say brass . One is a different color , say silver / shiny " white " or even DARK .

The green or bare wire is earth ground .

In practice , you can not depend on the other colors being a specific designation . If a white is connected to the switch , it most assuredly NOT a NEUTRIAL !

What ever color the 2 wires are , that go to the 2 same colored screws , they are travelers . If that 3-way is feed hot at that switch , the wire connected to the different colored screw , is the hot . Otherwise , that wire is the switch leg

A " standard mechanical " 3-way switch does not use a neutral , even though a neutral may be present in the switch box . Some dimmers or motion switches may use a neutral to make the electronics work .

If mercury switches are still made , the switch must be vertical for things to work correctly . If it is not , say hanging by the wires , things do not work correctly .

I should have included the other option, where the power comes in to the fixture, rather than either SW.

Easy there sparky. You had the opportunity to answer earlier, but chose not to.

There are indeed 4 terminals. Even the diagrams provided by another shows that. BLK is commonly HOT, WHT is NEUTRAL, RED is used in 3-way SW and bare copper is GROUND. In a 3W, a WHT wire can be HOT, thus the black tape.
 
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