2000 Buick Century Code P1404

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Hey guys

I just scanned my mothers car with one of those cheap bluetooth scanners, and discovered that she has code P1404 active. After some reading, it looks like it's the egr valve being stuck closed. I cleared the code to see if would come back, so I guess we will see.

But I wanted to ask for some advice on this, is it worth taking off the egr to clean it? Any backyard tricks anyone might have? Inspection is due in April, so I want to get this taken care of.
 
Is your time worth $56 taking it off and cleaning it then possibly spending the %56 anyway and doing the job twice? You decide.
For that money on an 18 yrs old car I would change it and clean out the port at the same time.
Give it a couple of sharp taps (don't beat the thing just a rap) with a small dead blow on the side first and see if the code returns.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I'm not trying to sound cheap, some things on vehicles can have a stupid solution, that's why I asked. I'll give her a tap, makes sense if theres carbon buildup


How would you go about cleaning out the port?
 
The electric solenoids in those burn out after awhile. The only sure way to test it after verifying powers and grounds is to use a scan tool that can bi-directionally command the EGR to open and then tell you the amount of opening with a percentage number which would be the EGR opening position. The FSM will tell what the opening should be at a specified RPM.
 


My test rig works good and I don't have one of those alternative-lifestyle scan tools.
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If you yank the EGR valve, push its pintle with a pencil. Odds are good it's sticky and will free up. You can spray brake cleaner in there and free it up for a little while.

Run the car with the valve off-- its absence will help clear the passages.

It should be noisy, showing the path to the valve is clear.

It should also idle high and/ or lumpy, showing the path to the intake is clear.

A bike brake cable in a drill is cliche but actually really works for clearing this stuff out.
 
I had the same code two years ago on my 3.8. Cost me a gasket, I cleaned it up and its been fine since.Took 15 minutes.
 
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Try all the previous suggestions, if you need to replace buy the OE GM part and not aftermarket. Good luck, usually a good cleaning is the trick.
 
Wow, what a bunch of great replies. OEM would be AC Delco right?

Running it with it off is a great idea, I can't believe I didn't remember that, I used to work in a diesel and they used to take off the EGR on a cummins, clean it and run it to blow the [censored] out.

I'll pop it off and see what it does like you suggested eljefino.

Glancing at it I see mine is a little different than the one on this car, the one on this car is at a right angle, and I see a tube coming out the bottom, are these bolts/nut hard to get off since they have hot exhaust??
 
They are not torqued all that tight, you shouldn't have any problems. Give the threads a shot of BP Blaster first.
 
I think there was a video on Youtube from South Main Auto on this exact issue, I think it was an Equinox with the 3.4, but same looking valve. As Trav said, he started tapping it and it worked. Those things gets crudded up over time and stop working. Had the same problem on our 2008 Equinox, but it was an oil burner. We traded it in before I replaced it, but a month or so later I looked up the vin and it showed the GM dealer replaced it.
 
I love South Main Autos videos, awesome guy and great work and a good resource to learn from. I loved the video where he went to his brothers diesel shop where he was doing an in-frame overhaul on a cummins.

Anyway, I digress, I gave it a few good taps with a rubber mallet, cleared the code and we shall see. I'll scan it in a few days to make sure the drive cycle is completed, at the moment if I don't have to replace it I would rather not even though they are relatively cheap.
 
Little update

I remembered when I did the intake gaskets, I grabbed the EGR valve when I grabbed the intake I needed.

So today I put that on, but I noticed that the tube going into the EGR was a little bent, so I hope thats not an issue, I tried to straighten it some. I started the car with it off, but it didn't want to stay running unless I put my foot on it, so I hope that isn't indicative of an issue.

This valve looked a lot cleaner, but the angle that the bottom is at, I can't really get anything in there to move the pintle. I sprayed it and let it sit in some brake clean for a little while.

It got dark so tomorrow I'll clear the code and see whats what. I also wanted to try this "Fix" that I found, I have no idea if it holds merit, or makes sense, but it's easy enough that I'll try it.
The fix goes like this:

1. Disconnect the wire harness from the EGR valve.

2. Turn key ON and erase the trouble code(s) from the car's computer AND TURN KEY OFF IMMEDIATELY WHEN THE SCANNER SAYS CODES HAVE BEEN ERASED. DO NOT TURN KEY ON BEFORE YOU RE-CONNECT EGR WIRE HARNESS.

3. Re-connect EGR wire harness and your problem should be fixed.
 
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