Toyota Sequoia - Oil and OCI suggestions?

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I'm getting ready to start doing regular maintenance on my mother-in-law's Toyota Sequoia - primarily to make sure it get's done, but also to help save her some money and make sure it's done right. Do any of you BITOG users have a similar Toyota engine and a good OCI track record? Or does anyone have any suggestions anyway? Looking for the best value for my (her) dollar here. The details on the vehicle are her driving habits are as follows:

1. What kind of vehicle you have
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 - 2WD - 4.7L V8 - 145,000 miles

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well
OM says 5w-30 API SL (circa 2004) and an OCI of 5,000 miles / 6 months per manufacturer maintenance schedule.

3. Where you live
East Idaho (cold winters, car will be parked outside under a car port)

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Relatively easy.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
80% highway, 20% city driving - she has a daily work commute of 60 round trip highway miles. 1,500 miles a month, on average.

6. Whether your car has any known problems
No known issues, however, the vehicle was recently purchased used, so the maintenance history is largely unknown.

Price is a factor, although spending slightly more on oil and filter for less frequent oil changes would be beneficial. Seems like current Mobil 1 rebates would be a good value here. Was this era of Toyota 4.7 L a sludge monster or does it usually run pretty clean? I'm usually a GM guy, so my knowledge of this vehicle and engine is pretty limited. Appreciate the help!
 
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Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The Toyota 4.7L v8 is a very reliable motor but in most applications does not get really good gas mileage.

I have that engine in my 03 4Runner at about 165K miles.

Link to UOA


I would recommend 0w-20 weights if it doesn't get good gas mileage to boost it up. I should have tried it in my [censored] poor Sc3.
 
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Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The Toyota 4.7L v8 is a very reliable motor but in most applications does not get really good gas mileage.

I have that engine in my 03 4Runner at about 165K miles.

Link to UOA


I would recommend 0w-20 weights if it doesn't get good gas mileage to boost it up. I should have tried it in my [censored] poor Sc3.


I tried 0w-20 Mobil 1 when the 4Runner was at about 10K miles over a trip to Phoenix of about 400 miles each way at night with little or no traffic running most of it in the desert on cruise control and compared it with the 0w-30 with 2 round trips on each oil.

0w-20 netted 36 gallons of gas for 22.2 and 0w-30 netted 36.2 for 22.1

Possible differences in wind, gasoline density and other possible variables make these numbers as good as identical.
 
I use:

M1 5w30 syn oil
M1-102 filter
OCI: 7-8 K
Miles: 250K
 
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With all that highway and high accumulation she is a good candidate for extended drains.

Mobil1 EP or Amsoil 5w30, with an Amsoil or Fram Ultra would be my choice. 10,000 mile OCI and maybe further with a UOA.
 
I use whatever 5w30 is on sale and a fram ultra 3614 on my 2005. It is used in the midwest and gets typical severe soccer mom duties. The oil is changed at 5k intervals and the filter at 15k. Your biggest concern should be the timing belt and if its been changed. At 145k its way over due. The tundra/sequoia forums have good write ups on how to change the belt.
 
Sequoia are also known for frame rust also. Look at the inside of the rails towards the rear link mounts and along the exhaust side. You can also stick your fingers inside the frame holes and feel for rust flaking. These rust from the inside out. I fluid film the inside of the frame and everything underneath. With a good application it halts the rust that is already there
 
I have a 2001 Tundra with 190K miles. This is a great engine, a long runner.
I use Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 or Mobil1 5w30 High Milage.
Maybe a mix, cuz it takes 7 quarts to fill with the larger filter...

Any good filter will do; I generally use Wix.
Runs like new; everyone tries to buy it from me.

I would service the transmission and rear end.
Very easy...
 
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I run Mobil EP 5w30 in my friends 02 Tundra, M-102 filter; 10K is easily doable perhaps 12K with highway miles.

I am assuming the timing belt has been done?

Maxlife for the transmission; drain 4 of 12 quarts, refill; 30 minute job; lather rinse repeat.
 
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Been doing 10,000 mile changes with 5w-30 M1 or Supertech Syn for about 40,000 miles now. Oil comes out very clear, its clear on the dipstick, and doesnt smell like gas even though my Sequoia does mostly short hops now, with an occasional trip every now and then. Its been well documented that these engines are very easy on oil.

The 2004's had the better, more reliable transmissions (compared to the spotty 2001-2002's) but I would do a few drain/fills anyway if the fluid doesnt look good. Maxlife works very well in these transmissions.

As someone else noted, make sure the timing belt has been changed. I did mine at 90,000 and the belt looked fine, but the idler pulley had a lot of play in it. These engines are interference so if the belt goes, its a very expensive repair. I did the job myself, I spent about $450 in factory parts (Belt, idler, tensioner, water pump, t-stat, etc) and it took about 7-8 hours working at a very leisurely pace. Nothing difficult, just a lot of stuff to move around.

I think the only other problem area on the 2004's I believe was the ball joints. They are easy to check, cheap to buy, and easy to replace.

I have read of a few incidents with the transmission cooler in the radiator corroding and allowing coolant into the transmission. I would think if the antifreeze hasnt been ignored this probably isnt much of a concern but it might be something to check the cooling system for signs of neglect.

Other than than, check the frame for rust.

The Tundrasolutions forum has an excellent 1st Gen Sequoia subforum. I dont participate much there but there is a lot of good maintenance info and whatever.
 
On my '06 Lexus GX-470 (Same engine) as your MIL's Sequoia, I run M1 5w-30 with a Fram XG3600, which is an inch or so longer than the stock xg3614. This combo gets me 7qts. I run this for 7k. The truck sits up in Michigan's Upper Peninsula outside and does short trips, before my son does a 6.5 hour drive home. Otherwise I'd run 10k if it was in my care but I dont see the truck for months at a time so I cut it a little short. This era of v8 (2UZ-FE) are very robust, and I believe that in '04 you do not have VVTi so no secondary air pump to worry about either.

I'd say run whatever 5w-30 you want with a decent filter and you should be fine.

Also, check the radiator. The side tanks (composite) crack and you lose all your coolant. Ten years is a rule of thumb I have heard mentioned for replacement. Mine failed at year 11 and was replaced.
 
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I didn’t realize this engine had a timing belt - I was just assuming it must have a chain. Thanks for the tip, everyone. I’m going to look into that and make sure it’s been done. I’ve done a few Honda V6 timing belts, so I should be able to tackle this one if it needs it.

I’d like to get to a 10k mile / 6 mo. OCI on this Sequoia. She should be putting on close to 10k miles every 6 months with the daily work commute. I’m thinking either Mobil1 EP or Amsoil XL 5w30? Oil filter will be either a Napa Gold or Fram Ultra - whichever is cheapest and easiest to get.
 
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I didn’t realize this engine had a timing belt


Interference motor so.... perhaps get on that. lol

My friend went to 12x,000 on her original TB and now is @ 220K.

The guessimate is there is 'plenty of overhead' built into the interval; 90K @ 0-40mph is a lot more than 90K @ 65mph.

I did not realize it had a belt either until I started researching the motor. Having mentioned that to her and the possible consequences, I was granted a lifetime pass to maintain the vehicle however I wished....
 
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