Pennz Plat Euro L 5W30 first impressions

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OK, so I did make a partial mistake in putting a low-SAPS oil in my Forester, but hey. I like experimentation at least as much as the next guy. This replaced a fill of Harvest King 5W30 about 550 miles ago.

Startup- just as good as it has always been; my car has some slight piston slap until it is warmed up. This is no better nor worse than any other oil I've tried.

Operating- again, no real change here. Quiet and smooth, and thanks to the boxer 4 unless the windows are open you can barely hear the gentle idle.

Consumption- filled right to the little notch in the dipstick just over the F mark. Still right at the notch.

Cleaning- here's where it gets interesting. Like I said, this has only been in for around 550 miles including a nearly 300-mile day this past Friday. I checked the oil early in the day after about 20 miles in while I filled up, and the oil was still the very light amber that Pennzoil PurePlus typically is. So imagine my surprise when, 250 miles later when I was topping off the tank again, the color had changed significantly! It's now, after only about 550 miles total, the same color brown that my Fusion's PUP is after 15k+ miles.

Now, I know that color does not affect the performance of the oil; that's not my question. Do you think it is possible that there was really that much cleaning going on following up several OCI of RT6, one of Mobil1 0w40, and the barely 3k OCI with Harvest King (Dexos1 certified)? Or is this one of the side effects of running an ACEA C3 oil in a gasoline engine?
 
I wouldn't worry about it being Low/Mid-SAPS, because the base oils are very strong against oxidation.

Should be high HTHS, which is good for Subaru Boxers.

Don't worry about the color.... just run it as usual.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
I wouldn't worry about it being Low/Mid-SAPS, because the base oils are very strong against oxidation.

Should be high HTHS, which is good for Subaru Boxers.

Don't worry about the color.... just run it as usual.


so HT/HS > NOACK..you learn something new everyday. I knew superior base stocks is the way to go. And from I understand, 0w-20s by nature have all this without even needing Dexos or even C3.
 
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike


so HT/HS > NOACK..you learn something new everyday.


Hmmmm.... two different things.

HTHS protects bearings that are under a lot of heat/stress (Subi Boxers can have bearing problems)
NOACK is the ability of the oil to stay "liquid", not turn to "vapor" when hot and go out the PCV.
 
I agree with Linc. However, NA boxers seem to not have the issues with main and rod bearings like the EJ257s do... but I don't want to take a chance.

BTW, there is no way in Hades I'm putting a 20 weight in my EJ boxer.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
I agree with Linc. However, NA boxers seem to not have the issues with main and rod bearings like the EJ257s do... but I don't want to take a chance.

BTW, there is no way in Hades I'm putting a 20 weight in my EJ boxer.


Smart man Chris
smile.gif
 
Whenever I read about low-saps being a problem, I'm typically reading about OHV engines. I never read about it being a problem in SOHC or DOHC engines. VW approved this oil (504) in their SOHC and DOHC gasoline engines which were origanially built with full SAPS oil (502).
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike


so HT/HS > NOACK..you learn something new everyday.


Hmmmm.... two different things.

HTHS protects bearings that are under a lot of heat/stress (Subi Boxers can have bearing problems)
NOACK is the ability of the oil to stay "liquid", not turn to "vapor" when hot and go out the PCV.


good post. QSUD with low NOACK (5.x) ran real good in my V6 Lexus SC, any theory on how the low NOACK would help in performance?
 
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Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
OK, so I did make a partial mistake in putting a low-SAPS oil in my Forester, but hey. I like experimentation at least as much as the next guy. This replaced a fill of Harvest King 5W30 about 550 miles ago.

Using traditionally short Subarau OCIs, the C3 lube won't be a problem in the least. As for colour changes, trying to figure that out will drive you insane.
wink.gif
 
I just recently did an OCI with PP EURO 0W40. Can I expect it to clean the inside of my engine as well? I have mostly used semi-synthetic and conventional oils from mile 6 up to 150K miles currently.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Do you think it is possible that there was really that much cleaning going on following up several OCI of RT6, one of Mobil1 0w40, and the barely 3k OCI with Harvest King (Dexos1 certified)?

Hard to say. It could just be that the add pack in this particular oil is responsible for color change when exposed to heat, so it naturally turns the oil darker sooner, regardless if it's doing any cleaning or not.
 
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