Recs for 2016 wrx

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Location
NY, USA
1. What kind of vehicle you have
2016 wrx, FA20DIT
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well
5w30 API SN resource conserving or ILSAC GL-5
3. Where you live
New York
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
Easy on daily commutes which are local roads, stop and go traffic (borderline short trip).
Hard on weekends. Never tracked or auto crossed, but would not mind the protection.
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
See above. Mostly local traffic. Spirited on the weekends.
6. Whether your car has any known problems
No problems per se, but FA20DIT’s are known for their propensity for heavy intake valve carbon deposits and pretty bad fuel dilution.


First oil report on PUP 5w30. Sheared with only 2k mi of light driving...
Dilemma here is:
Switch to non RC 5w30 like Mobil 1 esp?
Or move up to 5w40? If so which one? My biggest concerns are intake valve build up and higher oil temps.

FYI, Im modded, stage 2: engine tune for full exhaust, tgv/egr deletes, air oil separator installed, aftermarket intercooler. Pushing 300whp/325wtq.
 
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Rotella T6 seems to be popular with the Subaru/WRX/STI community, so that would be my choice.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
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Rotella T6 seems to be popular with the Subaru/WRX/STI community, so that would be my choice.


Going to a 5W40 was/is true on the old EJ20 and EJ25 engines. This is the new FA engine and being that his car is still newer and assuming he's within the warranty mileage, you should definitely stick with what Subaru recommends, an API SN, ILSAC GF-5 5W30 synthetic... Plenty of those around.


You could move a non-RC 5W30 but you will lose the ILSAC GF-5 certification- will still be API SN though. Mobil 1 ESP could be a choice for sure, will have a high HTHS vis so a little bit better protection and you're more or less within what Subaru requires.
 
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Concerned about warranty? If so, I'd go with a Dexos 1 Gen 2 5W-30 oil (which have SN and GF-5). You have a direct injected engine and D1g2 is improved to deal with LSPI and deposits. However given your mods, I don't think you care much about that. I would consider a "euro" A3/B4 oil like M1, Castrol, or Pennzoil 0W-40 (look for A40, 229.5 and LL-01 certifications). Stronger anti-wear additives, a little thicker to deal with increased pressures and heat. Welcome aboard.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Concerned about warranty? If so, I'd go with a Dexos 1 Gen 2 5W-30 oil (which have SN and GF-5). You have a direct injected engine and D1g2 is improved to deal with LSPI and deposits. However given your mods, I don't think you care much about that. I would consider a "euro" A3/B4 oil like M1, Castrol, or Pennzoil 0W-40 (look for A40, 229.5 and LL-01 certifications). Stronger anti-wear additives, a little thicker to deal with increased pressures and heat. Welcome aboard.


Ah yes, good suggestions. I missed the mods... If warranty is no issue a Mobil 1 ESP type product is best of all worlds as you'll gain a higher HTHS vis and a proven track record with German OEM approvals while retaining the factory recommended grade.

I am curious though, how much much emphasis is placed on LSPI with ACEA A3/B4, 0W40/5W40's w/ LL-01, A40, 502/505 etc? Those approvals have been around so long and I would question their effectiveness in direct injection engines to combat LSPI. Does anyone have insight to that?
 
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Thanks all for the recs. Just FYI, my engine is not built, it only has supporting bolt on mods. Stock HP is 230whp/220wtq fyi and I am tuned for 300whp/325wtq.
Would it still be worth it to switch to a 40 weight oil? Or would Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 be enough?


What would be the cons of running 40 aside from lower milage?
And AFIK (which is not much about oil) 0w40 is easier to get? Are there any pro/cons (however minute) to 0w40 vs 5w40, minus the obvious extra protection at lower temps offered by the 0w?

Thanks for the warm welcome.
 
I feel like we’ve gone through this already.
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Castrol Edge 0W-40 since it has lower ZDDP and Ca than M1 0W-40. Although with your mods (EGR/TGV deletes) intake valve deposits are less of a concern from what I’ve read (meaning higher SAPS oils should be fine). Built or not, on a modded car I would go with a 40 grade as recommeded by Subaru Japan for hard driven stock WRX’s.

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Wow you’re everywhere man lol. Yeah just trying to get a second opinion. So Castrol 0w-40 seems to be the consensus h less anyone else has a diff opinion?
 
I think RT6 is not good for FA20DIT's which is the 2015 and up WRX, not sure of the exact reason(s) why. But you're right that it's good for the EJ series engine tho.
 
Originally Posted By: ruhohshaggy
I think RT6 is not good for FA20DIT's which is the 2015 and up WRX, not sure of the exact reason(s) why. But you're right that it's good for the EJ series engine tho.


There are now two RT6’s so you have to clarify which one. The concern with RT6 5W-40 in DIT’s is that there are studies that high SAPS (Sulfated Ash Phosphorus Sulfur) oils with higher ZDDP can lead to intake valve deposits. As I’ve already mentioned, your mods likely mitigate IVD so that’s not a concern for you.

ACEA C3 oils like Motul X-clean and Mobil 1 ESP are becoming popular in stock WRX’s because they stay in grade, have a higher High Temp High Shear (better film strength and bearing protection), but they have lower ZDDP and they’re 5W-30 as recommneded by the manual.
 
Originally Posted By: ruhohshaggy
How big is the difference in SAPS between Mobil 1 ESP and castrol 0w40?

You can easily find uoa’s on M1 ESP in the Service and Maintenance forum on nasioc and you can find voa’s on Castrol 0W-40 in the voa forum here. That will give you a general idea.
 
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